I am nuking out the problems with my build. I have just put on a Grubee skyhawk 66cc kit on my Schwinn cruiser bike. I had a problem with it breaking the chain. We discovered that the engine had shifted slightly. So we removed the rubber tape from the rear motor mount, repositioned the engine and tightened everything back down. Now, the chain isnt breaking but its coming off the sprocket to the outside of the sprocket. I can get it started and go about two blocks till it happens. I assume this is an alignment issue between the two sprockets. So is there a chain aligner that I can put on or what?
throwing the chain
- Thread starter picklefish
- Start date
You can use a yardstick. Just lay it along the sprocket and line up the front to back. Make sure your rear sprocket is running true. No wobble. Also check to see if your chain tensioner is running true with the chain.
The rear sprocket runs true but how do I space it further out? Im not using the kit chain tensioner, should I be? If not what is the fix? thanks
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alright, so I can see where the chain enters the rear sprocket is deviated to the outside by a fraction of an inch, just enough I guess. Will the spring tensioner correct this or should I try to reposistion the engine and retighten the mounts?
alright, so I can see where the chain enters the rear sprocket is deviated to the outside by a fraction of an inch, just enough I guess. Will the spring tensioner correct this or should I try to reposistion the engine and retighten the mounts?
The tension-er will only help a small amount. If your sprocket is dished make sure it is dished to the outside, If not flip it. Make sure your wheel is lined up straight, not cocked to the side. And make sure your chain is tight. When the engine is pulling the bottom of the chain will have all the slack. If you are off a little it can let the chain jump off. Not running a tension-er is good, but you have to make sure everything is right.
now you are talking, the rear sprocket is dished out, My dad and I are going to reset the wheel to make sure its as tight as it can be. I think you are right about the loose ness making the chain jump off. But thats why I thought a spring loaded tensioner could guide it better but also prevent the slack on the fly. Cant hurt can it?
I wanna say, the people of this forum have been extremely friendly and incredibly helpful. not to mention quick with the replys. I like an active community and am glad I found this site. thank you to all!
Search the thread on chain tensioners. Taking the time to get this right is one of the best things you can do to insure trouble free riding!
I have been looking through it but havent found anything in particular that applies here. Anything come to mind that you are thinking of that hasnt been mentioned would be greatly appreciated.
If you have to use a tensioner, tack it to the frame or use a bolt or screw to prevent it turning into the spokes.
I don't like spring tensioners on a manual clutch bike because the slack goes to the top of the chainrun whenever you let off the gas and coast. If you have tight and loose spots in the chain, the sprocket is not centered correctly.
I don't like spring tensioners on a manual clutch bike because the slack goes to the top of the chainrun whenever you let off the gas and coast. If you have tight and loose spots in the chain, the sprocket is not centered correctly.
I just read that in one of the tensioner posts, I hadnt thought of that before and was concerned for sure. thanks much.
