Another FD, Never Thought Id Stoop this low(CCs)

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mapbike

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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Central Area of Texas
Mapbike: I am facing the same problem with my engine. There are only two 3/16" bolts mounting the engine. They are however into a farily thick part of the engine case, only time will tell. Thers not a lot to mount to on the little critters.[/QUOTE]

Yep, your right, I can add anothe brace and remount my little 25cc engine if I want but I think I will, set it aside and just use the 31cc when I get it going since the 25cc engine is so under powered for the area I ride in.

Peace, map
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
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Colonial Coast USA.
Changed to the 1.38( whats left from a 1.5" hole saw) roller last evening. Top end is around 30 on the flats. Lost some of its hill climbing authority, but still climbs most with out a terrible loss of speed(5-6mph). But it is much more relaxed around 25mph at cruise. With the 1.1 roller you could just drop the engine while barely rolling and go, this one requires a pedal to around 8mph to be happy on take off. With a small HP engine small roller changes make big differences! I was given this engine for R/C aircraft conversion so the first thing I did was throw the air filter assembly in the trash(planes dont use em), now have to scrounge one. Also think I am going to the scissor clutch, as I find the handle a little awkward.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
mapbike said:
Mapbike: I am facing the same problem with my engine. There are only two 3/16" bolts mounting the engine. They are however into a farily thick part of the engine case, only time will tell. Thers not a lot to mount to on the little critters.
Click to expand...
Yep, your right, I can add anothe brace and remount my little 25cc engine if I want but I think I will, set it aside and just use the 31cc when I get it going since the 25cc engine is so under powered for the area I ride in.

Peace, map[/QUOTE]

Hey Map, forgot to mention I was looking at a Ryobi I had on an airplane thinking of using it. If you are not fan cooling the engine you can remove the fan shroud inner plate. It is bolted to the engine around the crank with 4 bolts into hefty castings. You could make a simple flat plate mount that should be fairly strong mounted there.
 
rustycase

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
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Getting close to ultimate simplicity, CB2 ! lol

and Deacon has pointed out his prob... hangin' on to the WW case!

then there will be the prob with it trying to run off the tire which will be resolved with a wider mount at the front.

the scissor lift could use a smaller lever for operation.

then, it occurs to me there must be many well considered reasons why the solex people went with front wheel drive. I must spend more time considering their logic.

Best
rc
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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north carolina
i have my new one on the front, but i cant ride it for another month so I have no idea what the good or bad is just now.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

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Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
The Solex works great on the front, and its not a real light weight. The beauty of the design is the motor is "split" with the mass about equally divided on both sides of the wheel, nicely balanced. The Poulan on my bike is so light I really dont think it would be too noticible on the front if kept close to the fork. The Solex is very quiet by virtue of the muffler being down near the road. The WE engines are probably quieter and less exhaust fumey on the back. A Solex in my opinion would be worth the effort to find, refurb if nec and install on a bike. Its a well designed, tough little unit, with an auto clutch and a lighting system to boot..
 
mapbike

mapbike

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Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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Central Area of Texas
cannonball2 said:
Yep, your right, I can add anothe brace and remount my little 25cc engine if I want but I think I will, set it aside and just use the 31cc when I get it going since the 25cc engine is so under powered for the area I ride in.

Peace, map
Click to expand...
Hey Map, forgot to mention I was looking at a Ryobi I had on an airplane thinking of using it. If you are not fan cooling the engine you can remove the fan shroud inner plate. It is bolted to the engine around the crank with 4 bolts into hefty castings. You could make a simple flat plate mount that should be fairly strong mounted there.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the great info. cannonball2

I'll look into that mounting idea when I get started on the Ryobi build.

Peace, map
 
pocdragon

pocdragon

New Member
Apr 30, 2011
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RI
hey cannon

gotta lovve the wasp builds

the hand clutch on the top tube looks to be a little cumbersome
i suggest a scissor clutch setup to lift the motor

im trying to get together enough bits to make a 2wd 50cc dual motor wasp

ill follw ur progress fosho
.cs.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
221
63
Colonial Coast USA.
I went to a scissor clutch, then a 1.5" roller made from a BMX foot peg, pressed over the rubber drive roller. It all worked great, a little lethargic on the hills, but moved pretty well on the flats. Was really enjoying the ride when the engine expired. Maybe I was a little hard on it. Any way its parked while I figure the next source for an engine. Thinking maybe a Sthil 4 mix.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
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north carolina
Those are nice engines. Mine had the pillow bearing which i removed like an idiot. The motor is probably about the size of a ryobi 31cc at least mine was.
 
a_dam

a_dam

New Member
Feb 21, 2009
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Momence, IL
Had to change the original ribbed throttle grip I tried as it looked way too much like a product from an adult novelty store
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That is hilarious, Cannonball!
I never saw this old thread before you referred to it in Wickedest1's post.

That ribbed grip would make you extra careful; you could have a very embarASSing accident if you wiped out. Like on the Seinfeld episode, you'd be telling the proctologist "It was a-million-to-one, Doc!"

I like that simple design, Cannonball. That's how mine has mostly been (I experimented briefly with a belt/pulley deal), the mount pivoting by the seat stays works great.

I have always used springs to pull the roller down into the tire. One build was a little "bouncy" because the roller was only about 3 inches from the pivot point and I was using the old steel 27" Schwinn rim. Those rims have clunky welds and don't true radially very well, and there is no "lip" so getting the tires to seat right is hit-and-miss.

Now I have a modern alum 700c rim on the rear. Plus, I want to try a lift setup where the roller is "locked" down on the tire instead of pulled down with springs.

Cannonball, was that lever used only to raise the motor/roller off the tire, or did it also provide the downforce? (locks up and locks down)

Wickedest1, if you engineer your motorized bicycle right, a little WW motor can cruise you around suprisingly well for thousands of miles.
 
cannonball2

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
221
63
Colonial Coast USA.
Yeah really liked that grip too until I stood back and looked at it-had ta go! This lever was lift only. A lock down would be a good idea, especially if the locking "gate" was adjustable for various down forces. My zillion mile 98cc Lifan/Mongoose is a spring down. It has enough down force to kill the engine if you stop with out raising it, yet its still light on the handle bar lever forces because of the use of a scissor lift.

The idea of a WE based FD is appealing again to me, might go see whats in the garage.
 
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