Heavy Duty Axle Kit
- Thread starter GothTech
- Start date
Grubee has all the info on their site, go into total products, then pick either the 4 or 2 strokes, doesn't matter, then there is a link for the HD Axle page.
Grubee Inc.
Grubee Inc.
Mine's embedded in my brain, but I'm unable to extract it...sorry. I can tell you though that there are several ways to install the components and hardware on the left side (motor-driven side) and the factors involved are whether or not you're bump starting the motor, or pull starting it.
I gather your bump starting it as you picture the non-freewheel set-up. Just make sure the bolts or bold heads do not make contact with the spokes when the sprocket flange is spun all the way on. You'll be breaking spokes otherwise. Lock-rings can be used to prevent this....not all set-ups are shipped with the lock rings however. The pic above does show the lock rings....that's good.
Good luck and let us know how doing with it, cheers
scotto-
I gather your bump starting it as you picture the non-freewheel set-up. Just make sure the bolts or bold heads do not make contact with the spokes when the sprocket flange is spun all the way on. You'll be breaking spokes otherwise. Lock-rings can be used to prevent this....not all set-ups are shipped with the lock rings however. The pic above does show the lock rings....that's good.
Good luck and let us know how doing with it, cheers
scotto-
Last edited:
Adjust your band brake. The brake drum seats against the sprocket on the fixed version. If its froze up as you say, then the band brake is too tight. Adjust the line to your handle, then adjust the brass nipple on the brake cover till you get it just right. Good luck.
So the entire wheel is not turning? Hmm. Can you take some picts of how the wheel is mounted? Also make sure the brake cover is not touching the sprocket, since it remains still while the brake sprocket and wheel spin together. It could be locking it up.
Those hubs come on the Grube GT1 bikes.
I found the drum brake to be virtually useless, so chances are the problem is not that brake.
I found the drum brake to be virtually useless, so chances are the problem is not that brake.
I had the same problem.I put A extra washer between the hub and the out side cover.
that way when you tighten wheel in the bike there will be ehough clearance between the out side cover and the hub. i hope this helps.
that way when you tighten wheel in the bike there will be ehough clearance between the out side cover and the hub. i hope this helps.
Can you be more specific? Can you take some pictures of your set-up here, the whole mess is confusing (to me anyway) and you're getting more confusing answers here than anything. Pictures please...
Last edited:
wow this was a waste of time 80 later and nothing to show for it the dam thing striped out god
it's spelled with a capital "g" because it's an english surmane, right? (just to further confuse everyone, in scotto's edit above, the "G" should be lowercase. in context, it's referring to a letter, not a supreme being, so it has no importance and shouldn't be typed as a majuscule.)
as far as the original poster's dilemma, seriously, did you look at the picture before you bought it? it looks like a buncha chrome-plated crap.
as far as the original poster's dilemma, seriously, did you look at the picture before you bought it? it looks like a buncha chrome-plated crap.
Not to mention A: we don't do religion here so it's a moot point & B: proper capitalization is the least of the OP's worries lol
I don't see what the problem is, these hubs are as simple as can be. Of course I chunked the band brake, its a piece of crap. But if you replace the cheap chinese bearings with ceramic ones, and then order a custom sprocket from Blow By U(optional, the sprockets that come with it are decent), then these hubs are good to go for 200+ miles a day. For $50 that's not bad. I still wish Grubee would consider reversing the outrer left hand threads, that way a disc brake adapter could be used, the band brake just sucks ass. You can use the lock ring on the sprocket and just toss the entire brake out, worked for me. If you look at the cost of buying all the parts separate, you'd never get close to what they are offering in the package. If you aren't mechanically inclined, better to just buy the whole wheel assembled from bicycleengines.com or Spookytooth.
Today 2014.....does anyone know where to get a flange for this hub (NON-freewheel)?
And still to this day God is with a capital "G" as in OMG.
Get real....
Put your sprocket on the inside of the screw on flange with the bolt heads on the inside.
It is counter-clockwise threads so motor power keeps it tight, the problem comes up when you try to bump start a 2-stroke, it tends to unscrew the sprocket and drive it into the brake so put the locking ring on the outside of the flange to hold it in place.
Be sure you axle spins free and has no slop, adjust the locking dual axle nuts to make sure it's perfect.
The brake drum spins on clockwise so when the brake is applied it to tightens itself. It seems like it cups in but I can't remember so with finger tightness see how the brake pad housing fits over it because once it's in it a femal dog to get back off.
On this Huffy the brake arm cable stuff hit the chain so I mounted it to the upper chainstay bar and it worked dandy.
If the outside band pad cover hits anything you can put an axle nut or two on it give you clearance.
Done properly it works well even with it hooked to a SBP dual pull with a side pull C brake on the front wheel and a fix for the garbage back hubs that come on Huffy's.
It is counter-clockwise threads so motor power keeps it tight, the problem comes up when you try to bump start a 2-stroke, it tends to unscrew the sprocket and drive it into the brake so put the locking ring on the outside of the flange to hold it in place.
Be sure you axle spins free and has no slop, adjust the locking dual axle nuts to make sure it's perfect.
The brake drum spins on clockwise so when the brake is applied it to tightens itself. It seems like it cups in but I can't remember so with finger tightness see how the brake pad housing fits over it because once it's in it a femal dog to get back off.
On this Huffy the brake arm cable stuff hit the chain so I mounted it to the upper chainstay bar and it worked dandy.
If the outside band pad cover hits anything you can put an axle nut or two on it give you clearance.
Done properly it works well even with it hooked to a SBP dual pull with a side pull C brake on the front wheel and a fix for the garbage back hubs that come on Huffy's.
Last edited:
KC.....all I was asking is if anyone knew where to find the six hole sprocket flange for these hubs? Or even just the hub and flange.
I have three 4-strokes with this hub on them and know everything except where to find them WITHOUT the five bolt freewheel flange.
