212 build

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Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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well the mount blocks you made there can all be made on manual machines. you don't need to program a haas to make those, in fact for one set it would be a lot faster to make them on a manual or prototrack mill. even for two sets or even five. Where I work the CNC's tend to be busy with more complicated stuff and typically do not have free vises for additional (optional) work offsets.

also the mount plate that goes between the blocks and the engine is pointless. That is for people who don't yet know where the engine will be and how wide it is. if you already know you'll be using a rope start, or a pull start, the plate shouldn't have slots in it. Shouldn't be a plate at all. Just adds weight IMO.

Mount blocks should be made from billet aluminum as we have done but no plates, instead use studs. This way there wont be any 3" long bolts going through the assembly. I don't have a drawing or anything, but I could make one when I have the time. Using precision slip fit guide pins you can get away with not using any plates for alignment. IE use .2500 pins about 3/4" long, press fit them into the JS blocks with a .0005" interference fit and drills holes and ream them with a .2505 reamer. Have the JS pillowblocks or just JS bearing holders precision made to match the studded engine seat tube mounts. The engine block is way stronger than any plate you put it on. Be way easier to mount the JS blocks with a dummy seat tube to the motor first, with everything in the assembly fit up and all, bolt it down, then bolt all that to the seat tube; than putting the JS/engine mount on the bike first then bolting in the engine.

Took me about 30 minutes on a manual mill to make the mount blocks on a manual. Same as yours pretty much just slightly different dimensions. Learn to run the manuals quick if you wanna get good on the CNCs.
 

Scott.D.Lang

Member
Jan 1, 2013
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First off dude if you dont know who you are talking too you need to think twice before you speak. I have been running manual machines since I was 11 or so, my Father was one of the very best machinist in this country. I dont totally disagree with a lot of what you said but first off my mount is a Prototype and of course Id used CNC considering I just got my CNC Mill cert. also using visual program on the haas I did all 3 blocks from scraped NIMs in well less then 40 mins and it was my first time using visual programing. The motor plate took me a little longer but next time it will be cut in half as far as time.

As far as the way I made it part of the reason I made it the way I did was to be more or less universal then anything. Also I used Scrap billet for the blocks that is what the NIMs are made from. On this mount I spent nothing but time and learned a new skill in the process.

So before you give criticism and think you can talk over someone's head get to know the person you are talking to. If I get somewhere where I can build things in my spare time Trust me I will be producing only the highest quality parts for people and will be doing it on a bike per bike situation so everyone that gets any part from me it will be a total custom for them.

To me you sound like you are jealous that someone would ask what Id build them a mount for if so there is no reason to be because competition is a good thing it makes better builders and machinist out of all of us
 

Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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Dude chill. I'm just suggesting a way to redesign mount blocks to reduce machine time. Imagine engine mounts for a hundred bucks they would sell like hotcakes. One op
 
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Scott.D.Lang

Member
Jan 1, 2013
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Dude I am chill but the way you came across was condescending from my point of view. I do know there are many ways of making things like these mounts. In my case Im using new skills and the material I could get my hands on.

as far as price if I do become able to produce these the price will most likely be the best on the market and it will be the strongest mount at this point in time at least made.

There are many different ways these could be made as already said but not every way will work for every bike one thing about the mount I have made with one small change depending on the bike it should work on 95% or more of bikes out there that the motor will fit in.
 

culvercityclassic

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Sep 27, 2009
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by the math everything is about twice as thick as it needs to be and even though Im going to come up with some kind of front mount to make sure the motor does not shift left or right most likely it will not need it I can still tighten the mount about .2 of an inch and right now I could stand it up and put all my 260lbs on one side and it would not move at all. I will be test fitting every piece that I have of it together this weekend to see if there is anything I have forgotten.
Looks strong, how are you going to adjust chain slack from the clutch to the jack-shaft?

You are also going to need a front mount or top mount to secure that 212
 

Scott.D.Lang

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Jan 1, 2013
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With the front mount I have not figured out 100% but I have ideas. as far as the chain from clutch to jackshaft I have some adjustment in the jackshaft not sure if it is enough yet but if it is not Ill make it enough. Any ideas are appreciated
I may not use them but they never hurt and if I dont use a idea it dont mean that that idea did not help me.
 

Scott.D.Lang

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Jan 1, 2013
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Got my super wheel from LabRat today this weekend I will be getting 90% of the bike together and will be posting pics with the process I have so far.
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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Half links I have used and along with a master link it has helped me out when my engine platform allowed but just very small adjustment. My jackshafts have pillow bearing hangers that mount on brackets that I slotted. External star tooth lock washers hold the position.
 

Scott.D.Lang

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Jan 1, 2013
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yes it will no problem as far as the carb it is not perfect yet but close Tomorrow Ill have to do some things to finish buttoning her up and one of the things Im doing is getting the carb 100% right.
 

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Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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Lookin good. Carb forward looks stupid tho. Awesome fork suspension, but that axle position looks dangerous! Zero or negative trail... get us a side pic.

Can you drop the motor any more? Gonna wish you did come valve adjustment time.
 

Scott.D.Lang

Member
Jan 1, 2013
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As far as the carb forward looking stupid that is your opinion and Im sorry it is my bike so you are wrong. Also with the carb forward I have leg room and dont have to worry about messing up the carb with my leg. The forks are not dangerous I have had them on this frame at just shy of 50 mph. Now on that their not adjusted right, right now that is one of the things I have to do tomorrow to get the wheel straight.

I wish I could drop the motor but in this bike that is as low as I can go I have less then 1/2 inch between the motor and frame on the front and if I drop it any more well my 24t sprocket would be to big. but valves no problem I can pull the motor in less then 10 mins and put it back in in less then 20 so Im not that worried about it.
 

xXNightRiderXx

Active Member
Jan 12, 2017
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Oh, that sucks. Well, maybe you could make a new model that allows you to move it without removing the engine. That would be much easier.
 

Scott.D.Lang

Member
Jan 1, 2013
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Chicago
not in this frame when I first made the mount it was set up that way but could not mount the motor. So I made the needed changes.
 

Scott.D.Lang

Member
Jan 1, 2013
406
2
16
Chicago
The Blackhawk is all but done except for a few minor things and paint. When my wife paints it I think it is going to be a stunner and damn it is quicker and faster then I expected it to be. Anyone that decides to build a 212 build please be safe because power to weight is crazy even at a 10:1 gear ratio
 

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Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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Nice bike. Can't tell from here but if you are using the gas tank mounts for mounting the motor it is a bad idea. You'll get cracks. Mine has stress cracks already from when I had mounts there even though I cut them off since, and Gilbert has had serious damage there too.