Apollo Moto Racing - Current Race Engine Build List

GoldenMotor.com

exokinetic

New Member
Mar 18, 2016
108
4
0
Lake Forest, CA
Here at Apollo Moto Racing, we feel that hiding useful information we have learned through experience, and being secretive with performance tips and trick is only detrimental to the Motorized Bicycling Community as a whole.


By spreading what we learn, and growing off this SHARING of information, we allow everyone participating in this community to have more fun, less frustration, and improved reliability.


The net result of all of these positives are two fold. Firstly, and most obviously, we advance the current state of the art for the technology used in our field. And make no mistake -resulting not least of witch due to the complete absence of 2 stroke technology in MOST major automotive and industrial sectors- the advances we make are important and useful to the motoring world as a whole.


But secondly, and perhaps less obvious, is that as we increase the excitement level, the build quality and craftsmanship level, and the outright reliability of these machines, the community as a whole becomes more popular.


Popular support has a LOT of benefits. More customers means a better living for those hard working members of the building and selling community.


More people get excited about Motorized Bicycling, and see it as a legitimate part of society, and are more willing to support legislative efforts aimed at making a space for motorized bicycling in our already crowded urban (and rural) environments.


And of course... MORE PEOPLE AT THE RACES!!!



So, without further ado, the Apollo Moto Racing "GP .1" Race Engine Build List:




-40mm Stroke Crank (Crank Axle Trued, Otherwise Completely stock, although very interested in CR Machine's new balanced Cranks. Will be testing soon)

-HCH 6202-ZZ C3 Crank Bearings

-Jakes "Diamond" Head (spark plug hole corrected - 5.5ish CC's. Really like the squish band size in the combustion chamber, large squish area *should* yield improved low end torque vs. narrow squish band with low squish area)

-Squish Gap @ 0.024" (Results in 230-240psi with spark plug corrected Jake Head)

-NGK BP7HS Spark Plug (Gapped at 0.032")

-Custom Ported Wide Intake Port Cylinder (No "boost port".... yet. Decked to set Squish Gap. Intake port relieved for reed valve petal. Widen Exhaust Port. Basic Port Matching, De-Burring and Chamfering)

-Custom Machined Cylinder Base Spacer (Set Exhaust/Transfer Duration. Currently playing with 155-160 degrees total exhaust duration. Tried 165 degrees and lost too much low end torque for my liking. Around 130-132 degrees total transfer duration, for around 12-16 degrees blowdown. The 165 degree exhaust timing was an effort to increase blowdown to around 18-20 degrees, I believe the extra blowdown caused the loss in low end torque. New porting is around 160 degree exhaust, around 130-132 degree transfer for around 14 degrees blowdown, with even wider exhaust porting to maintain high RPM power without loosing low end torque.)

-Custom Machined Stock Low Wrist Pin Piston (Window Cut in Piston, see Pic. Intake Duration completely controlled by reed valve. Will experiment with different window patterns than pictured to reduce intake timing slightly in an effort to find more low end torque)

-Stock Wrist Pin Bushing and Bearing (I get great longevity considering the stress I put on the engine)

-HD Lightning CDI (Retards Ignition at high RPM's. Allows use of higher compression ratios)

-RSE Reed Valve (single petal version)

-Custom 3D Printed Intake Manifold for RSE Reed Valve (Info Coming Soon, Still in R&D Phase)

-Mikuni VM18 Carburetor (Modified Slide, Google U.F.O - Ultimate Flow Optimizer)

-Malossi E12 Filter (Replaced Filter Foam with Polini Blue Foam)

-Fred CR Machine Firebreather Exhaust Header (Literally, not only one of the coolest parts I have ever bought for my MB, also the highest quality machining, as well as HUGE performance increase. I cannot say enough good things about Fred and CR Machine)

-Pro Circuit KX80 Motorcross Pipe (Awesome pipe, exactly what I wanted from the power-band. Great low end grunt, plenty of top end run-out. Seriously, try one)

-16:1 Oil Mix Ratio (Maxima 927 Castor. Before you flame me, read the compression number again. As long as I run oxygenated fuel things stay incredibly clean in the cylinder and exhaust. If I don't, 16:1 Castor results in thick dry carbon deposits literally EVERYWHERE.... such a pain)

-VP U4.4 Racing Fuel (If you have never tried it, I cannot recommend it enough. BUY SOME)


Manufacturing Draft (lol) for Windowed Piston:




Two such engines having a great time at the races:




If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!





Sean Davis
Apollo Moto Racing
https://www.facebook.com/ApolloMotoRacing/
 
Last edited:

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,046
3,948
113
minesota
WOW! Good to know, although i am not a racer. I can pass this on and help someone else. Thanks for posting............................Curt
 

Dobby

New Member
Aug 14, 2016
13
0
1
Forks, Washington
Hey Sean,
I really like what you have to say and have so many questions. I'm not on FB so I'll ask you here.

First question. I have a Mikuni VM18 with the the Molassi right angle filter (red foam) could you please provide a link specifically for the Polini Blue Foam? Does this Poloni foam perform that much better than the Mollasi Red?

2. I'm really interested in the UFO for my VM18. I checked out their site. They had a dropdown menu for several of the slides. Unfortunately I couldn't figure which one I needed. Could you please tell me which of them I would need?

Lastly (for now), I have a gasbike (CDH Power) frame and was using a rubber cushion between the pedestal mount and engine to no avail. Now there's a hairline crack running half way around the base of the pedestal mount. I hate that these 66cc motors are manufactured with such poor precision and quality assurance. I wish they could be made with the standards that some of those goped engines are made with. Anyway, any advice on how to fix or counteract those awful vibrations (so intense that I cant even keep my feet on the pedals comfortably)? I know there are vendors out there who claim to sell motors that have a balanced crank. But at the end of the day, how would I ever know if they balanced them or not after money is spent (no refunds). The last time I opened the crankcase, it was an absolute nightmare trying to separate the two halves and once I did, I couldn't get them back together (there was 1/8th inch gap between the two halves).

Thanks in advance for you help and insight. I hope to hear back from you soon.
 

kaneto

Member
Jun 6, 2016
34
3
8
Bulgaria
...

Lastly (for now), I have a gasbike (CDH Power) frame and was using a rubber cushion between the pedestal mount and engine to no avail. Now there's a hairline crack running half way around the base of the pedestal mount. I hate that these 66cc motors are manufactured with such poor precision and quality assurance. I wish they could be made with the standards that some of those goped engines are made with. Anyway, any advice on how to fix or counteract those awful vibrations (so intense that I cant even keep my feet on the pedals comfortably)? I know there are vendors out there who claim to sell motors that have a balanced crank. But at the end of the day, how would I ever know if they balanced them or not after money is spent (no refunds). The last time I opened the crankcase, it was an absolute nightmare trying to separate the two halves and once I did, I couldn't get them back together (there was 1/8th inch gap between the two halves).

Thanks in advance for you help and insight. I hope to hear back from you soon.
Get rid of that rubber - it only makes things worse.
If the engine is tight to the frame vibrations are not too bad even with stock crank. You need to mount it as solid as possible (after you get that crack welded af course).