Caoboy's Huffy cruiser build

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caoboy

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Sep 3, 2015
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modesto
Thanks for the info Dave!

I looked through this thread : http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=16646

And it looks like my ports have been cleaned up a bit already. I will post some pictures later...tiny bit of casting on the exhaust side, intake side feels the same, tiny bit of casting that might need to be sanded down.

Intake tube definitely needs a whirl, there's a lot of casting debris in there.

Transfer port gasket needs to be shaved a bit.

I think the head (sparkplug mount, right?) needs to be lapped, you mentioned taking off 1mm. I'll take some pics (again) it looks like there's about 1mm of a cylinder ring on the head that seems like it barely seals against the headgasket.

Circular motion or figure 8 for lapping the head?

The crank case gasket needs to be shaved on the inside.

I think that'll be all I'm going to do for now. I don't think I'll cut the piston skirt just yet, but I'll look into it. I would rather get it running than break it before I get a chance to ride on it! :)
 
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caoboy

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Ran into a problem...the front mount studs are not wide enough.

My down tube is 1.50"

Stud spacing was measuring 1.35" but I'm going to remeasure that after looking at SBP and seeing the front mount adapter.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=85

*edit* it's 1.60" center to center on the studs. I measured the spacer lol.

The rear mount looks like it fits fine, so that's good news I guess.

It is looking like a tight fit for the whole engine as well.

I did get the clutch lever and throttle mounted. Not sure I like the throttle mounting, I may schooch it in a bit more.
 
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caoboy

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Ok so I sanded down the casting slag on the intake tube, and in the cylinder intake and exhaust sides. That part is done. I don't quite understand the piston notching, I'll look into that more. Kind of get it, but I feel like I need to put the engine together and see TDC of the piston to fully understand how much is needed to clear the intake runner.
 
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caoboy

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Ok...I never did actually get pictures of the 'before' port cleaning.

Here is what it looks like now.

Intake:


Exhaust:


I believe this how much I need to cut off the piston skirt?



It was at TDC when I took the skirt pic (pic for reference):



I need to order the front mount, and I'll go ahead and order a head stud kit as well. The studs that are currently in there are A) warp/bent/crap and B) didn't go down all the way into the case. I was just hand threading them though, and I only have acorn nuts to fit on the stud, no way to double up and tighten it down proper.

I hit the crank case gasket with an Xacto knife and got that situated.

Now I just need to research lapping the head so I know how far to go..that should be the next item on the agenda, then I can put this guy together and get it on the bike.
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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Welcome caoboy,

caoboy said:
That's right. A Huffy. (I'm already starting to regret that purchase)

Stock photo, since I didn't take a picture:


It was this or some cruiser from 1959. I chose the Huffy, mainly because of the frame with the lower bar that I could build a tank into.
Click to expand...
I had the same in-frame tank in mind when I bought this 26" Columbia 1937.
It had a fake tank in it, which is essentially just a couple of chain guards screwed together in the middle.

It came out like this.





Note the SBP front mount and off-set intake.
I would guess you are going to need both as well, it's tight at the top.

I would keep the 700mm wheels, not quite 29ers but close and they really ride nice.

If you go 26" your front C brake won't help you much, and you want a good brake for many reasons, not the least of which is packing around the weight of over a gallon of fuel.

That 1937 holds 1.6 gallons.

Regardless of rim size, you can only go 2.125"-2.25" in tire width at the fattest point or your drive chain will hit it.

I would suggest you leave your head alone and just an NGK spark plug like the NGK 5944 (BPR7HIX) Iridium.
It is a bit long than stock giving you about the same extra compression, plus it gives a great spark and you'll never need to change it.

*You can not use the good plug if you mill your head down.

If you are curious about I how I did the tank, you can read the whole tale of the 1937 build from the bike in the box to completion here.
http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=812

But in short I made a cookie cutter frame of steel, mounted the filler and petcock, then tack welded on the bikes fake side covers over my cookie cutter steel farme and sealed the tank internally with Caswel tank sealer.

Good luck with yours!


http://motorbicycling.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/
 
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caoboy

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Thanks for the info KC! Your thread helped me find my bung/cap for my tank build.

I test fit my the 26" wheel off of my MTB today. I like the look, but my front brake doesn't fit!

I definitely need a new rear wheel before I even bother trying to ride this thing with an engine. Either the rear bearings are already shot or we didn't tighten up the cones enough. I'd rather not find out the hard way, and If I'm taking off that wheel again it's for a new one! Husky doesn't sell a 700c or 27" wheel with a shimano or hi-stop coaster brake...

I really think I'm going to drop down to 26" and figure out a new front brake...which probably involves a new front fork with at least a 2 post v brake mount.

Although...I bet it wouldn't be too hard to make something like that out of my existing fork... It can't be that hard...can it? Drill a hole, weld in some pipe, thread it viola, 2 post v brake fork.

Anyways, here are some pics of the 26" black MTB wheel.





 
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caoboy

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Just ordered this. I think the brass will look really cool with the rest of the bike.

Vented cap, Stainless Steel bung. 1.75" cap.

Planning on making the tank out of 14ga Stainless Steel. I don't know if I want to leave raw and polish it or if I'll paint it.
 

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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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caoboy said:
Just ordered this. I think the brass will look really cool with the rest of the bike.

Vented cap, Stainless Steel bung. 1.75" cap.

Planning on making the tank out of 14ga Stainless Steel. I don't know if I want to leave raw and polish it or if I'll paint it.
Click to expand...
Where did you get it from? Nice filler...............Curt
 
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bradallen226

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these will be powerful enough for daily use but if something goes wrong and a fender goes into the spokes it'll just crack instead of securing up the rim or pulling spokes out all while making you hurt and street rashed
 
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KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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bradallen226 said:
these will be powerful enough for daily use but if something goes wrong and a fender goes into the spokes it'll just crack instead of securing up the rim or pulling spokes out all while making you hurt and street rashed
Click to expand...
I use fenders all the time.

A 3 point front mount and 4 point rear mount aren't going anywhere before it makes so much noise you know there is an issue.

Just make sure the bolts inside the fender are tight with maybe some JB weld at the bend for the L shaped top mount of both fenders.
 
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caoboy

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Good news, bad news.

Good news. Engine is put together, ready to go onto the bike!

Bad news.

The lower bar (that I was going to put the gas tank on top of) is too low, and the motor won't fit. Looks like I'll need another bike..
 
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caoboy

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Does anybody know if I can cut that lower bar without repercussions? Right now I'm debating doing that, or just selling this bike and getting another one that will fit the engine...
 
MotoMagz

MotoMagz

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Aug 2, 2010
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Don't cut anything on the frame. The only way you can. Cut a bar off of a frame is if you reeled the bar back with supports or what ever it takes. Is it the motor that won't fit or the carb?
 
2door

2door

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Sep 15, 2008
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First question is, is the frame steel or aluminum? A steel frame could be modified but an aluminum one will require someone with good welding skills. Not easy to find and not cheap.

Cutting out structural members of a bike frame is risky business. You don't know how it was designed and how stress was factored into the frame design. It's not easy to to determine from your pictures what would be a safe route but if it was up to me I'd look for another frame and I'd do some measuring before I bought the bike to make sure the engine woulkd fit.
Now that you have the engine in hand that should be easy to do. I've gone so far as to take an engine to where I bought the bike and did a test fit before I commited to buying it. This was on a 24" mountain bike I built for someone. It was easy to see that I could 'shoe-horn' the engine in the frame with no modifications.

Tom
 
MotoMagz

MotoMagz

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It's definitely going to need modification . What if you forget about motor mount for a second. Can you get the motor in there at all? If you can the. You can make up some mounts if not cut and weld or make it simple get a new frame. Good luck and don't get discouraged ....its part of the hobby!
 
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