Well, my first repair less than a week after I finished the kit...the idler/tensioner pulled itself into the spokes and I stopped in a Big Hurry. Broken chain, many broken spokes...but at least I kept it all upright. Any suggestions on keeping the idler in place? It pivots too easily on the circular frame (this is on a Grubee Skyhawk GT2B kit).
Also, an ongoing issue is I just can't seem to idle; even with the clutch pulled in it stalls. Suggestions?
Thanks!
You might try putting some rubber around the frame before you clamp on the tensioner, a piece of an old inner tube works well. Clamp it down nice and tight and pressure it to see if its solid. You should check EVERYTHING for tightness regularly on your bike, engine bolts, sprocket bolts, tensioner bolts, EVERY BOLT. Keep checking that everything is tight and you should catch these problems before something comes loose and causes a major failure like you had. Consider yourself lucky, a tensioner in the spokes could have easily caused a dangerous accident and/or personal injury...
My GT5 (with CNS carb) wouldn't idle either, I found the float in the carb was way out of whack. Try this simple test and see what happens.
Start the bike then turn OFF the fuel valve. If the bike starts to run really great for a while then runs out of fuel you probably need to adjust the float. After I adjusted the float my engine suddenly started to idle fine, and the "choke" works the way I expect it to work now. Turns out with the float the way it came from the factory my engine was swimming in fuel and the only way I could keep it firing was to run it at high RPM. Once the float was keeping the proper amount of fuel in the carb everything changed and the engine runs the way I expect it to now.
I also replaced the plug cap and wire, the plastic P.O.S. they provide is a joke! Basic rule, any part they give you 2 of in the kit THROW AWAY BOTH and get something real to replace it! For the plug cap and wire, I just went to an auto parts store and asked to see their single plug and/or coil wires. For $4 bucks I got a wire that had two plug boots on it, I cut it in half and it was long enough to make a plug wire for two engines. The wire may or may not be glued well into the CDI. Mine was glued like crazy, I just twisted off the old wire (with pliers), it broke off in the CDI, don't panic! Take some small tools, a nail, an exacto knife, small screwdriver etc and just pick the rubber from the old wire out of the hole. Eventually you will see the tip of a wood screw emerge. Pick the hole clean until the screw is completely exposed and all the rubber from the original wire is gone. Now put some silicone around the outside of the new wire and thread it on to the wood screw, smooth the silicon out around the wire and CDI to seal it in and let it dry.
Now you have a quality wire and cap on your plug! If you decide not to do this then you better put that spare plug cap they gave you in your pack and take it alone for the ride, cause you're probably gonna need it when you're miles away from home in deadly heat! LOL That's what happened to me!
