yet another reason to avoid doing top end work

32mm is the intake stud spacing.

There are also some that have a 35m intake stud spacing and I got a few of them from one of my sources that still sells the old style flat top transfer jugs. These jug's are great for making power but the 35m stud spacing also means slotting the holes on the intakes so they'll go on whether they're stock or performance intakes since everyone making performance intakes sell them as 32 or 40mm, I've had to slot these or just cut the ends off the flange to get them to fit.
These are the ones sold on ebay as performance cylinders, they are basically the old style with the flat top transfer ports... as far as "bolt on and go" performance is concerned, they're about the same but tend to rev a bit higher, they still need to be ported for any real performance, but might gain a mph or 2 if bolted on as is only due to the transfer style.

Yup... you want the transfers and exhaust ports up high in the cylinder, the lower ports tend to make for some gutless engines. I usually make a 1mm thick spacer to put at the base sandwiched between a set of copper gaskets to raise the jug and get the ports into this sweet spot, then I deck down the top of the jug so the piston is in the same place at tdc. This is for performance engines but could be done to any engine for a little more mid range on up power. Putting the spacer at the base does the same thing as raising the exhaust and transfer roofs but without cutting into the cylinder ports and one can make a spacer in just about any reasonable thickness to correct minor port timing issues, but the ones with the mission matched transfers, they can be saved by raising the low roof to match the high roof, but you'll spend a lot of time matching them up since the roof needs to be at the same hight And the angle it blows into the cylinder needs to be the same as well.. too bad you can't just send these back for a refund since you'd probably spend more shipping them back...