Head Cover Tightening
- Thread starter Redbiker
- Start date
12-15 ft/lbs or 120-140 inch/pounds.
Torque in a star pattern and approach final torque in small increments. (1/2-1/4 turn at a time)
Torque in a star pattern and approach final torque in small increments. (1/2-1/4 turn at a time)
Just in case you ever need to order parts. What you call a "head cover" is a 'cylinder head'. The cylinder is below it and attaches to the engine case, or block.
Maniac's torque values are precise. Don't exceed them. Also it is advisable to get rid of the chrome acorn nuts and replace them with shouldered, or flanged hex nuts. The acorns are notorious for bottoming out on the studs and not against the head.
Tom
Maniac's torque values are precise. Don't exceed them. Also it is advisable to get rid of the chrome acorn nuts and replace them with shouldered, or flanged hex nuts. The acorns are notorious for bottoming out on the studs and not against the head.
Tom
Bump: about to do the lapping of my head and cylinder and was wondering if these would be a better choice then the acorn nuts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Inser...855?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338c0c3aef
Also I heard for 6mm head bolts you might want to do 8-10 lbs of torque And for the 8mm head bolts to do 10-12 lbs
Also I heard for 6mm head bolts you might want to do 8-10 lbs of torque And for the 8mm head bolts to do 10-12 lbs
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There really is no need to use Ny-loc style nuts but you can if you want. The heat from the engine won't be enough to damage the nylon in the nut. If you're worried about the nuts loosening you might want to look at shouldered or flanged nuts that have a star pattern on the bottom side of the nut. They act as a lock washer or star washer to keep the nut from backing off. Your torque values are good.
The nuts you linked are metric, 1.25 thread. Just make sure your studs are course thread on the top end to match them. Some engines out there have come with fine threads on one or both ends of the cylinder studs. Check yours.
Tom
I like using coupler nuts since they have more thread area and spread the loads better.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...kmbmmu4qZ3_YJMdf9wfw0aAjgu8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
These are the wrong size but Metric ones are available
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...kmbmmu4qZ3_YJMdf9wfw0aAjgu8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
These are the wrong size but Metric ones are available
Hmm I hear what your saying but with all the net I can't find any Black Stainless steel 18-8 Coupling Nut 8/32 Thread x 1/4 Long. lol
Tighten the nuts in an X or Z pattern, not in a circle.
NightRider is correct about the torque values.
I've had issues with my nuts backing off & loosening after just a few miles, having to double check them before each ride. Got to the point that I no longer need a torque wrench at all, I can do it by touch with a standard ratchet. Still ended up blowing thru a stack of gaskets. Now I double nut them, standard nuts on the bottom & nylocks on top. Not as pretty as polished acorns but definately better holding power.
NightRider is correct about the torque values.
I've had issues with my nuts backing off & loosening after just a few miles, having to double check them before each ride. Got to the point that I no longer need a torque wrench at all, I can do it by touch with a standard ratchet. Still ended up blowing thru a stack of gaskets. Now I double nut them, standard nuts on the bottom & nylocks on top. Not as pretty as polished acorns but definately better holding power.
