Hey Deac and Shoes, ChainSaw?

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comfortableshoes

New Member
Jul 22, 2008
606
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Beverly, MA USA
I tune my carbs when the engine is running. I also rip the plastic restrictor plates off.

Then I tune the high end of it all.
I start out at 1.5 turns out. Clockwise it in counterclockwise out.

Then go from there.

Count your turns when your turning it and keep track.

If you forget turn it all in, gently, until it just stops. and then bkac it out slowly. quarter turn at a time.

Keep going at it slowly. and it will work.
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Okay, so i got the 42 chainsaw mocked up and test driven. I'll post some pics when i get back to my shop. I have never driven a friction drive let alone anything on 2 wheels less then 600cc, but it was still a fun test ride. Granted i was riding with one hand on the handle bars and one on the Saw throttle.

I still have to mount the pulley setup for the brake lever lift to release the drive from the tire. I used a 7/16 door spring direct from the back of the mount to the bike, Im not sure if it is putting enough pressure onto the wheel but it feels pretty heavy when i lift it by hand and it pushes the roller about 1/8" into the tire. I stretched the spring at a distance i thought was suitable then cut it to length before mounting and bent the last ring to fit through the predrilled hole on my engine mount. I have yet to pick up a turn buckle for fine tuning adjustment.

Anyways, i used a 3/4 nipple for the roller, welded a couple of washers at the end, choppped the original threaded Saw Clutch to fit into the nipple, and welded a nut ontop of it to grab with a socket. Worked out good and its all pretty straight and not lop sided, thats the hard part... Until i dropped it onto the concrete floor and it landed right on the edge of the roller which made it lop sided, DUH! So I tapped it with a hammer on the oppisite side of where it hit the floor and all is straight now.

I took it for a test drive with the smooth nipple so i can get a visual of where the contact point is and if the mount is moving under load. The mount turned out fine but way to much slippage on the roller. i took the roller off and tack welded a bunch of tacks where the contact point is. I can still feel some slippage, not sure if it is from the roller or the spring not being tight enough. The 26x1.95 $20 a piece tires have a smooth street tread in the center and a Knobby tread on the outer edge which the roller doesnt contact. Im going to try another roller with the tacks a little further apart, hopefully it might help with the grab.

Im concerned that using the brake cable to lift the engine might be to much tension on the cable with the tension of the spring.Also, has anyone ever busted a spring?

I didnt have my speedometer setup so i couldn't tell you how fast i was going but i would say a definite 25mph with some slippage on the roller. Im afraid to put more tension on the roller to try and sit tighter on the tire as to the strength of the spring. The engine is 42cc so i know i can get some more kick out of it once the engineering is tweaked right. I did tuned it up the best i could so the rest is down to the mount setup.

Oh yah, I still have to figure out where to mount the gas tank. Yesterday at Sears i saw a 32fl. oz. 40:1 premix round gas can with a plastic screw top for $4.99. prefilled with gas. Its made of thin steel but could be a good reusable tank to use once mounted correctly.

How many Oz. of gas are in a typical weed eater plastic tank and how many estimated miles could one get with the plastic engine tanks or lets say 32fl. oz.?

Sorry so Long...
I'll post some pics in about an hour so check back.
 
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rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
K, Got pics. Mount isn't that pretty but its just a prototype. I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate to lighten things up but its not that heavy as is. Im going to try using a 1.5" peg roller to see the difference in performance as compared to the 3/4 pipe. The peg i have is smooth so im going to add some tacks for grip.

One more thing on if my roller is not set tight enough. Being that there is no current engine release cable clutch, I tried peddle starting it but it slip a bit, turn over, slip a bit, turn over but never enough to crank start it. We had to run and pull the rope to get it going. I stepped up the spring from 7/16 to 9/16 and i picked up a turn buckle so i will let you know how things turn out.
 

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deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
try increasing the tension before you work on the drive wheel again. The smoother the wheel the less wear on the tire. Those jb and sand are like putting a sander on the tire, but they have a great grip.

One thing I did after one of my engine fell off the mount from vibrations is I bought some large pipe clamps from the plumbing section of the home improvement store. I looped them around the engine and then the frame . Once i tightened them down they got most of the vibration out of the engine.

I had the cable break because I didn't have a pulley system on the bike. I had the cable run over a exposed bolt and the threads did a number on the cable I think.

I just bought a couple of turnbuckles at lowes hardware today. I need one for the 42bike. I think I have it right but it could probably use a half turn more tension.

Now for the story of the day about speed. I run a much too large drive wheel on it at the moment. Today I got real brave and opened it up. I actually gained on the car ahead of me. Yes it was a 35mph speed limit and he probably was doing a little less but to gain on him was quite a feat for me.

The screen door spring is what I used and still do when I need a long one. If it doesnt have enough tension to suit you cut an inch off and try that.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
Do that it helps the next guy who is going to build one. He will know what can go wrong and how to fix it. We can't possibly share all the information but we should share all we can.
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Well Im kinda disappointed today. I decide to look up a cubic Inch to Cubic centimeters converter today and relized that my chain saw which has a sticker that says 2.0 CI is not the 42cc that i thought it was. It is actually 33cc. On the back of the Saw there is another sticker that reads some Model #, Serial Number and some State info. It also says Diplacement which reads 42cc. I took that as the actually size of my engine. I was hopeing to get a motor with 40cc or more to get me up some hills with least amount of effort but it is still a good lil motor for a first prototype.

I'll have to hit C'list for a bigger CC motor.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
I love my 33cc it does just about as well as the 42cc. I have never found any real difference in the hill climbs its on the long straight where you can let out the 42cc more than the 33 I think. Matter of fact I am looking at 33cc chainsaws on ebay now. I am allowed to keep three bikes.

I have been all over town today on my 42cc bike. performance wise the bike is pretty close to the china kit bike. It isn't quite there but it is close. It has some real advantages. It is lighter and quieter for one thing. It is also on a full suspension bike. That helps a little with the bumps and potholes.

I am putting the 33cc motor on the 20" hybred scout bike I built for it. If I can make it run this time I'm going to be shopping for an engine myself. I'm still thinking 33cc though. I finally know how to mount one so that I don't have to butcher it so badly.

My third bike has a non functioning ww engine. All these small engines have carb problems off and on. If I hadn't totally butchered the 33 I would just buy a carb for it. But I stripped most of the stuff off it before I realized what was what. I would like to get one with a recoil starter. A starter and carb would cost as much as a used engine.

As for the WW bike I'm not sure what I am going to do with it just yet. It will run fine, it just needs a carb.
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Hey Deac, did you have any problems mounting the throttle cable on the saw back. Im probably going to mount it on the side with the clutch lever but not sure how to connect so i can still make it adjustable if i have to give slack or make tighter?
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
I did that but I took it down as well. The reason I put it on the handlebars is, I didn't like having my hand off the bars as often as I adjusted the throttle, but If you do it there it is just another lever thing. It has GREAT adjusting ability there. It won't matter if the engine is up or down you can adjust for it. You might need a spring to return the bike to idle. Sometimes the brake sheath has too much friction to let the small spring in the carb pull it all the way back.

Now if you go on the handlebar with a shift lever, you need to attach the cable sheath to the motor mount to get that return because the geometry changes when the engine is up and when it is down. if the cable is attached to the mount it won't matter.

You can just drill a tiny hole somewhere in line with the throttle and attach the cable to that piece of metal with a washer and epoxy or I used quarter inch nuts attached to the cable then epoxied to the metal. Anything to keep the cable and throttle a the same relative positions.
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Sorry about that, I meant the choke lever on the carb. My carb has 2 attaching levers to the throttle on both sides of the carb. I ended up picking up a throttle connection at Ace for $3, kind of pricey for my taste, but i wanted something i could easily adjust and that pivots.

It looks like i might be riding home today so i will let you all know how things worked out tomorrow.

Thanks
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
good I'm always interested in new ideas. I bought one of those throttles with the solid wire inside a metal sheath from the lawn and garden center very early on. I never could find a way to make it work well.
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Okay, I took her for a test ride. Kinda scary being that i have no head light but she ran prtty good. I put on a 1.5" peg that i welded some tacks for traction and it did very well. I got up to 32 mph but i think she can do better if it wasn't for the engine bouncing off the tire.

My throttle setup worked great, but the pulley setup didn't do to well. The engine would bounce on the tire when i hit a bump and the cable would come off the top pulley. I tried hitting up the bracket to tweak it a bit to line up better with the cable stop but i forgot that the bearings in the pully have a plastic housing which eventually fell of while cruising down the road.

I tightened up my turn buckle all the way but there is still to much play on the spring. It feels heavy on the lift cable but I think im going to have to step up to a heavier spring. It would be nice to solod mount it but thats a whole other engineering project.

I did feel alot of vibration on the seat while hitting 20-30mph, i'll have to put some rubber padding between the mounts to see if it lightens up a bit.

For the gas tank I used the 32fl. oz. Prefilled and premixed can i bought from Sears for $4.99. I put a couple of grommets on the cap an it worked great.

My bike feels a pretty light while at higher speeds and from my motorcycle experience it could easily become unstable. Its an aluminum frame and im pretty sure a cheap bike but i might talk to friends for a used motorcyle stabilizer to try and stiffen it up a bit.

All and all, it was a fun ride. Have to work on the vibration and get the other kinks but it should be a good little commuter.

Thanks for everyones advice and tips. I while post updates soon.
 

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the_edge150

Dealer
Aug 21, 2008
289
0
0
Monrovia,CA
Well the guys at King Bolt Supply pretty much have every nut and bolt you can think of and they couldn't figure it out. I guess the only way will have to be taking the clutch apart and welding the peg to it. I just hope i can get it centered so its not lop sided causing vibration.

I went to the goped shop and searched through the scrap bins. There are alot of the clutch setups for the small engines they use like the Motor bicycle kits they sell with the 4 bolt flange with the clutch plate mounted to it. But the shafts on those engines have a female end so the roller is bolted right into it.
king bolt thats in covina right? sorry guys for the off topic post but i want to figure out where it is because i was told to go there for some studs and i live in monrovia
 

rgvkid

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
110
0
0
Los Angeles,CA
Monrovia, my shop is in Irwindale. PM me and i'll give you my number.

King Bolt is on Grand between the 10 and 210 freeway. Coming from Monrovia off the 210 its right after Arrrow Highway on the Left side. Big Sign "KING".
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
If your cable is falling off the pulley, just put a rubber band or light spring on the cable between pulley and the stop.

kid, you could experiment with levers by bolting a 12" handle/lever one inch from the pivot. If the lever that lifts the engine is 12" long, you will have a 12:1 mechanical advantage in lifting, and no need for ANY springs to hold the engine down. Applying 10 lbs. force at the handle will exert 120 pounds force onto the roller. Then a simple lever stop will hold the lever onto the tire. A light spring will raise the spindle off the tire.

You should try it, kid. You already have your main lever and pivot in place. The handle could be placed right under your seat and will take two seconds to operate.
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
its the same principle as the suicide clutch only in reverse. You lock the engine down and lift it only to stop. And the lever in front works the same way the longer the handle the easier the pull.

Thanks 7 you explain your lever system pretty good, now I understand. I was doing it at one time but in the reverse. Lock was to hold it up and a spring to hold it down.

Actually a sideways v would work too. top base of the v holds it up and bottom base of the v holds it down. That would eliminate all springs.simple over down back over action would lock it then a simple over up and back would lock it up.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
Yes, deacon but more like half a triangle. You want a flat area underneath,where the lever can rest easily, then have a rubber band or light spring keep it tucked under there.

When I designed it like yours, I had a ton of springs holding the roller onto the tire. Now I have one light spring to hold the engine off the tire and no springs holding the roller onto the tire.

My adjustable shift stop is based on your "sideways v". It's a pair of 3" rectangular plates bolted/sandwiched onto my basket's back wall, where the lever passes thru. So the back wall acts like a shift gate(guide) and the "sideways v" is the bottom stop. The adjustable sandwiched plate's upper outside corner is ground down at a 45-degree so the lever easily slides over it like your "sideways v".

This lever shift action reminded me so much of my old car's Hurst stick that I mounted my Hurst shift knob onto my bike's lever.^5
 
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deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
I like the shifter idea. I like the old suicide clutch location best so I'll probably keep using it but I can see how your design would be much simpler to build and operate. I have a couple of bikes ready to build and I am going to take a look at it.