help! i need some brainstorming for this one.

GoldenMotor.com
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13b

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
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knoxville, tn
as you can see, the bottom of the motor is going to sit very, very close to the chain. i have a lot of mounting hardware (from my new kit and some that i can salvage off of my old motorbike) so i need a solution for that front tube. the rear tube fits fint in the brackets, and can slide in any direction.

i guess i mainly need a solution for the front tube so that the engine sits up far enough, to avoid coming near the chain.



this picture is from when i was test-fitting it, thats why the brackets are in there all funny. i'm trying to avoid drilling a hole.

thanks!
 
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13b

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
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knoxville, tn
by the time i add one large enough, the bolts won't clear the other side of the tube.

do you have a picture you can show me? maybe i'm not understanding.
 
Cabinfever1977

Cabinfever1977

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Mar 23, 2009
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the spacer doesnt have to be very thick,you can add a thin one on the back or front either one will lift the motor a little.which has longer bolts - the front or back? place the spacer under the one with longer ones. diffrent materials can be used as a spacer even rubber or thin metal plates,some people use leather. once i even used 2 rear mounts on the rear,but my kit came with 2 sets of diffrent length threaded bolts-short and long.
 
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13b

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
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knoxville, tn
are you talking about the long 3" or 4" bolts that came with the kit that are threaded on both ends?

i've always wondered hat those were for. is there a way to take the bolts out of the engine and replace them with the longer ones?
 
Cabinfever1977

Cabinfever1977

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Mar 23, 2009
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to take out the threaded rods(bolts) put 2 nuts on the rod and use 2 wrenches at the same time turning each nut in oposite directions til there tight together(double nutting),now turn the inside nut and the rod should start to turn and come out. now u can put the new longer ones in.

but before u try this, try tilting the motor a little to get a little clearance between the chain,u dont need much.
 
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13b

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
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knoxville, tn
well, now none of this is going to work because i found out when test fitting the motor, the pedals won't clear the motor when it's centered and level.

has this ever happened to anyone before?
 
Venice Motor Bikes

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA.
You have to either bend the cranks out, or buy new ones... Old school cranks are narrower for some reason.
I have a solution for your engine mounting problem, I'll try to get some pics on here today.
 
lordoflightaz

lordoflightaz

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Jan 23, 2009
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Phoenix, AZ
13b said:
well, now none of this is going to work because i found out when test fitting the motor, the pedals won't clear the motor when it's centered and level.

has this ever happened to anyone before?
Click to expand...
You have room to mount the motor higher to clear the pedals. For the front mount Sick Bike Parts and Live Fast Motors both have a front bracket that will work. There are others. I used an older one from Live Fast for one of my bikes and it worked well.

Universal Mount |Sick Bike Parts
Motor Mount Fat Frame 'No Drill' Motor Mount | Live Fast Motors
 
2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
13B,
Are you a welder? Do you know anyone who is? Front mounts on cruiser style frames come in many variations. Here are a couple of them. These are on Schwinn Jaguars but the concept can be used on any bike with a large or curved downtube.
Tom
 

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13b

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
19
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0
knoxville, tn
yes, i am a welder...

i just mounted the motor high enough to where the pedals wouldn't touch it, and added some reinforcing. its all welded 1" electrical conduit. very sturdy.



the engine is perfectly level and its not going anywhere anytime soon.

i'm going to mount the sprocket later and figure out this coaster brake thing.
 
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