slight cut outs at full speed?

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doubledice

New Member
Nov 6, 2009
130
0
0
california
Hey guys i got an 80cc slant head motor from zoombicycles and it works great but when im going full throttle at the straights it cuts out alil bit and it bugs me. i have the baffle taken out on my exhaust so im thinkin since there is less restriction in the exhaust its flowing faster and the engine is getting starved of fuel and it needs better/more fuel flow to the cylinder cuz thats what it feels like? what do you think???


.bf.
 

PaulFlorida

New Member
Dec 4, 2009
52
0
0
central florida
That happened to me, but worse, with the stock motor. I ported first, and it still did it. I bored the carb, it did it worse. I put a SBP pipe on it, it helped a bunch, just now and then, but every ride. I added the "racing carb" and the C.E. billet intake, and it screams WFO all day long. IMHO, these motors are extremely restricted on port timing, intake, and exhaust.
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
some simple things that can you can do to try to stop it...

what plug are you using? upgrading to an NGK will help. i run a B7HS, and have used the B6HS as well. the 7 is a colder heat range, and it works for me in California, but my motor's got some performance tweaks.

get a new plug wire, too, if you haven't already. i use a copper core 7mm wire.

something as simple as a weak spark can make it sputter at full throttle.

match the intake manifold as much as you can, you can't get it perfect, because there's not enough metal, but you can open it up. also, grind away the casting flash on the inside of it. you don't want a mirror finish, because the fuel needs turbulence to atomize properly, but getting rid of "obstacles" like the bad casting marks helps.

what's your needle setting at? mine's second notch down. playing with that will affect fuel flow, just keep an eye on your plug color so it's not too lean, or too rich.

fuel mixture has an affect on it too.

and make sure your air fliter's clean. it'll clog up with oil and won't breathe.

de-carbonizing the top of your piston helps, too. just pull the head, put the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) and spray it with some carb cleaner. i use a toothbrush and scrub it a bit. some stuck chunks can be scraped off with a knife, or a scotchbrite pad.
DO NOT use sandpaper, steel wool, or any other abrasive that can get into the cylinder, and make sure the chunks you clean off don't get in there, either.

scratched cylinder walls will be waaay worse than a little four stroking...

one last thing, did it sputter when you had the baffle on?
 

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
Float bowl not catching up with demand is possible. A slight adjustment of the float? Just thinking out load here.
 

doubledice

New Member
Nov 6, 2009
130
0
0
california
It was worse with the baffle on it. I like to run about a 20:1 fuel ratio witch works better for me but i used some friends 2 stroke witch looks around a 16:1 im just goin off color on that tho. How do you change the wire out i always see guys on here with that
 

Outrunner

New Member
Dec 27, 2008
147
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0
Atlanta, Georgia
It was worse with the baffle on it. I like to run about a 20:1 fuel ratio witch works better for me but i used some friends 2 stroke witch looks around a 16:1 im just goin off color on that tho. How do you change the wire out i always see guys on here with that
I strongly suggest using Amsoil Synthetic or Opti 2 Semi-synthetic (True Value hdwre) and
mix the Amsoil at 3.5 ozs per gal. which is about 40:1. Opti-2 packets are prepackaged for
1 gal. at 73:1 ratio. Don't worry about these ratios, they are tried and proven to work fine.
AS far as the plug wire, it is the spark plug boot that typically gives problems. Make sure that the wire makes a good connection inside the plug boot. You could also buy a high quality wire from Napa with a new plug boot. Your 20:1 oil ratio is too thick for top performance for sure!
 
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doubledice

New Member
Nov 6, 2009
130
0
0
california
I believe i have figured out my problem, I took off my spark plug just to take a look at it and the tip of the plug where the spark jumps was moving up and down all i could say to the guys in shop was "bet you have never seen this before!" laff my motor is running with no gap on my plug idk how but it is. iv been looking at a spark plug on spooky tooth cycles it has 3 prongs on it instead of just one, what do you think???
 

Traveller

New Member
Nov 14, 2009
9
0
0
Southern CA
I have a similar problem with my PK 80cc.
The engine loses power dramatically at full throttle (~30-35mph), but only after traveling for about 1mi at that speed/rpm. If I pull the clutch in and let the motor rest for a few minutes I can get it to about 30-35, but have the same problem a mile down the road. The gap on my spark plug is 35 and running 23 to 1.

One thing I realized is that if I keep the speed limited to 15-20mph (36T) then it doesn't bog down at all.

I checked my spark plug when I came home and it was 25. Is it normal for the gap to reduce when you rev the engine high for long periods of time?
Could a clogged exhaust with oil be causing it?
 

kla63

New Member
Jul 15, 2009
111
0
0
NEW HAMSHIRE
I have a similar problem with my PK 80cc.
The engine loses power dramatically at full throttle (~30-35mph), but only after traveling for about 1mi at that speed/rpm. If I pull the clutch in and let the motor rest for a few minutes I can get it to about 30-35, but have the same problem a mile down the road. The gap on my spark plug is 35 and running 23 to 1.

One thing I realized is that if I keep the speed limited to 15-20mph (36T) then it doesn't bog down at all.

I checked my spark plug when I came home and it was 25. Is it normal for the gap to reduce when you rev the engine high for long periods of time?
Could a clogged exhaust with oil be causing it?
i backed off on my fuel cock just alittle that back off on my engine bogging !!! its work on many of my motors.wee. gas bicycle motors Home