Looking at either a Staton or Dax kit. They look nice, but seem expensive for what they are. Does anyone have a plan or instructions for a DIY version? The steel plate "U" bracket with roller doesn't seem complicated to make. Not sure about how the roller bearings operate, or what is needed. $150 seems expensive for what looks like $30-$40 in parts. Thanks.
DIY Friction kit?
- Thread starter Ggradtech
- Start date
It would all depend on your metal working skills. Yes, you could probably duplicate what comes in the kit cheaper than the kit but I think you'll find it a little more expensive than your estimated $30 to $40. If you have a metal stash and can find the bearings of equal quality at a good price, or have them on hand, you might get into your price range.
The kits are primarily aimed at builders with little to no metal working experience, tools or design skills. A talented individule with those things could build almost anything cheaper than a commercially available kit. A lot depends on the person doing the project and what he/she has to work with.
If you read many of the posts and threads here you'll see builders who have only basic hand tools and freely admit they have little to no mechanical experience. In those cases a ready-to-bolt-on kit will certainly be the way to go. Your situation might be different.
Also there is a lot of good information already available here on DIY installs. You might read through some of it and see what others have done in the way of brackets, bearing mounts and rollers.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
Tom
The kits are primarily aimed at builders with little to no metal working experience, tools or design skills. A talented individule with those things could build almost anything cheaper than a commercially available kit. A lot depends on the person doing the project and what he/she has to work with.
If you read many of the posts and threads here you'll see builders who have only basic hand tools and freely admit they have little to no mechanical experience. In those cases a ready-to-bolt-on kit will certainly be the way to go. Your situation might be different.
Also there is a lot of good information already available here on DIY installs. You might read through some of it and see what others have done in the way of brackets, bearing mounts and rollers.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
Tom
Friction powered bikes perform best in desert towns, where rain is rare.
There are many examples of successful DIY friction builds in the DIY/non-kit build sub-forum on this site. Many of them can be duplicated with a weed eater motor, some steel stock from the hardware store and simple tools like a file and hacksaw.
The friction kits from Staton and Dax are more durable and will help your engine last longer, in my opinion. Those kits have a bearing on both sides of the roller, reducing stress on the engine crank bearings.
There are many examples of successful DIY friction builds in the DIY/non-kit build sub-forum on this site. Many of them can be duplicated with a weed eater motor, some steel stock from the hardware store and simple tools like a file and hacksaw.
The friction kits from Staton and Dax are more durable and will help your engine last longer, in my opinion. Those kits have a bearing on both sides of the roller, reducing stress on the engine crank bearings.
Staton & Dax are worth it when you consider the labor you'd put into a DIY.
They are more precise than what most home shops can produce. That said,
you could use a couple pieces of angle iron & bolt 1/2 ply to create a channel.
then bore holes to seat the bearings. I've seen it done, but was not impressed.
After much experimentation I've modified a Staton roller that works wet, one of
the old style ones. Using a diamond wheel on a dremel, I etched a grid into it 1/8"
deep. I burned #60 grit emery paper & panned out the corundum grit. Mixing it into
a paste with J&B Weld I painted it onto the roller. Once cured, it clings to the
grooves I cut with a rough , very hard surface that grips rubber well. Just be
sure to pedal off first before opening the throttle or it will eat your tire. So far
it has been very durable. When it does wear, I'll clean it & just add a fresh layer
of paste.
They are more precise than what most home shops can produce. That said,
you could use a couple pieces of angle iron & bolt 1/2 ply to create a channel.
then bore holes to seat the bearings. I've seen it done, but was not impressed.
After much experimentation I've modified a Staton roller that works wet, one of
the old style ones. Using a diamond wheel on a dremel, I etched a grid into it 1/8"
deep. I burned #60 grit emery paper & panned out the corundum grit. Mixing it into
a paste with J&B Weld I painted it onto the roller. Once cured, it clings to the
grooves I cut with a rough , very hard surface that grips rubber well. Just be
sure to pedal off first before opening the throttle or it will eat your tire. So far
it has been very durable. When it does wear, I'll clean it & just add a fresh layer
of paste.
