Clutch to hard to move

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geoffrir

New Member
Apr 12, 2010
3
0
0
Québec Canada
hello my clutch was working ok but it was very hard to move, it was hurting my hand. I instal a 6 inches longer shaft on the arm of the clutch and a new bracket to hold the cable at the new location.
Now my clutch is working a lot better about 75% easier. Is there a trouble witch that clutch or was that normal ? Thank you in advance for your answer.
 
GearNut

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Are you referring to the HT 2-stroke engine?
If so, you may need to adjust the clutch spring inside the cases to a lighter setting.
Not too light mind you, you don't want the clutch to slip.
Here's a link to Norm's tutorial on how to tighten the spring. Obviously you would turn the sprocket the other way to loosen it.http://motorbicycling.com/f39/adjusting-clutchs-spring-more-tension-8392.html
Also, have you tried to round the edge of the clutch cam that presses onto the bucking bar?
Just remove the sharp edge, not much, and make it very smooth so it will stop digging into the end of the bucking bar.
 
mapbike

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
if the lever moves about 75% easier like you said I think you got it fixed, and to answer your question, it is normal from what I have read about the china 2 strokes to have a hard pull on the clutch, I guess I been lucky with my 3 BGF engines cause they all have an easy clutch pull, never had an issue with any of mine, but I know many have, sounds to me like you got it fixed so i would just ride and enjoy.
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
GearNut touched on this but allow me to elaborate a little on a modification that will help with the clutch pull situation. I've posted this advice a couple of times before but maybe I should do a photo pictorial so it will be clear as to how the mod is done. Until then try this: Remove the clutch cam from the clutch actuator housing, and the pin or what is referred to as the 'bucking bar', the 5/16" pin that protrudes from the drive sprocket. The end of that pin and the contacting surfaces of the cam, actuator, need to be smoothed and even polished. This is a high pressure working surface, much like the cam and lifters in an overhead valve V-8 engine. The surfaces that meet need to be as free from friction as possible and as such will reduce the amount of pressure needed to disengage the clutch. I like to use a sanding disc on a Dremel tool to take off the rough edges then a buffing wheel on a bench grinder to polish those surfaces. Add a good high pressure grease when reassembling to the pin and the cam and I think you'll find that the resistance in your clutch lever has been significantly reduced. The clutch cable can also benefit from being lubricated and the path of the cable as free from sharp bends and kinks as possible. I'll go to work on a 'sticky' to show this process but until that time please feel free to PM me with any questions regarding this simple fix.

Tom
 
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