performance build wont start

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hcrft

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
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NORTH CAROLINA
Did my first performance build with ported cylinder, decked piston, tuned exhaust, sha/dellorto clone carb, and performance CDI.
The engine will sputter, but wont start. Dont see anything loose on the cylinder that might be sucking air. Im assuming it the CDI was wired incorrectly it wouldnt sputter at all.
Suggestions on troubleshooting anyone?
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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if you have the stock carb handy, you could try it with that to narrow down the search
 

2door

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Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Sir,
This is the reason I advocate to anyone building their first performance engine that unless they have prior experience and can expect the results of any given modification, that they start by doing one mod at a time.
Your engine is loaded down with mods and aftermarket accessories. It is extremely difficult to pinpoint where you problem might be. A better alternative would have been to start with the porting mods, tune for them then move to the piston and so on. That way you would have known what worked and what was causing a problem. As it is we can only guess. An option, that you probably don't want to hear, is to replace those go-fast parts with stock items. I'd start with the CDI. If that doesn't cure your problem then move to the carburetor, and so on. That at least might help locate a troublesome part.

You say the engine "sputters" but doesn't start. Does this mean it is firing but won't continue to run, or, is all you're hearing compression sounds when you pedal? Define "sputter" for us.

Have you been through the common checks for an engine that doesn't start?
Checked for ignition (plug sparking)
Checked for good fuel flow to the carburetor from the tank?
Checked to see that the choke is open (if equipped)

How is the compression?

Tom
 

hcrft

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
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NORTH CAROLINA
I checked for fuel flow (removed line. Flow looked adequate.)
Engine is firing but wont run. There is combustion, smoke, and heat but not consistancy. Hence the term sputtering.
The choke is not on.
I switched back to the original cylinder. ....same problem. Going to switch back. I do see a tiny gap between the cylinder head and head gasket. I didnt notice any fuel or smoke around it after trying to start it.
Going to put a stock carb on her tommorow and see what happens.
Where might I find tuning info on my carb. Its the performance carb from jnmotors.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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that gap is normal - the seal happens further in

I sometimes use a squirt bottle to squirt fuel into the carb to see if it will start it, but that's hard to do for one person if you have to pedal to turn it over.
 

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
I don't know what carburetor you are calling "stock". Is it the NT carb? That would be a good place to start along with the so-called "performance" CDI. That would be the first thing I'd replace with a stock part.

I suspect you have a carburetor problem but taking that questionable ignition system out of the equation can't hurt.
Because this isn't your first bike I'm assuming you have checked spark plug gap, spark plug boot, high voltage lead to the plug and the ignition wiring connections.

Tom
 

CTripps

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
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Vancouver, B.C.
Disconnecting the fuel line at the carb means you have fuel reaching the carb only. I was helping a fellow I met the other day think about what was wrong with his pocket bike. Nearly the same carb as a stock China Girl. He did the same and made a puddle of fuel in the driveway. Reconnected the line, I pulled the drain screw from the bottom of the fuel bowl and got three drops of oily gunk but nothing else.

So what I guess I'm getting at is don't stop at the entrance, make sure the fuel is actually going through.

I agree with then posts above though.. if the problem persists, switch as much back to 'stock' as you can to get it going and work from there. And by the way, Mapbike has pretty much demonstrated that stock CDI units are as good as aftermarket ones in performance, the only real differences appear to be cosmetic.
 

hcrft

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
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NORTH CAROLINA
So I re mounted the stock CDI and carb yesterday after remounting the ported cylinder. Same issues.Engine firing but not running consistanly. Put an NGK BH6S in and got it to run and idle this morning finally! Bogging down though with no power. Im using the performance carb from jnmotors. Anyone know if its a dellorto clone or an sha clone? I need to look up tuning info today . I have 6 jets to try in it. Im at 865ft. altitude. Suggestions on a jet size to use?
I also crimped the16ga magneto wires to 22ga extensions running to the CDI. Might the size difference be a problem?
 

Going2Hell

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Nov 22, 2013
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Victor, Colorado
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may not be the size difference eventhough that would be a problem! If you only crimped the extensions, the connection may not be good enough to pass the full current... try soldering if you can, or at least use the same guage and if possible; the same type of wire core. this may fix your problem, it may not... either way, you would want to do this for a healthy ignition system.
Good luck...
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
I agree. 22ga is a little small. I also concur that a soldered connection is far better than crimping.

As for the carburetor I can't help you there. I don't know what carb it is or ways to tune it. The seller should provide some information with the products they sell. If you can be more specific about what carburetor you have someone might be able to offer some insight.

At least you're making progress. Good luck.

Tom
 

hcrft

New Member
Jan 4, 2013
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NORTH CAROLINA
Stephing King fan ?
well im glad you asked.... I've heard anywhere from 2.8 to 3.2 onces synthetic oil to the gallon is good. Ive just started using craftmans synthetic two stroke. How many onces for the break in of this engine?
 

CTripps

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
1,310
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Vancouver, B.C.
Stephing King fan ?
I was, or should probably say am a fan of his older work.. ever since he sobered up I have to admit it just doesn't interest me any more.. 'Insomnia' was the last 'new' work of his I read, and it was definately a cure for the condition.

well im glad you asked.... I've heard anywhere from 2.8 to 3.2 onces synthetic oil to the gallon is good. Ive just started using craftmans synthetic two stroke. How many onces for the break in of this engine?
Hmm... I can assume you're using US gallons where 1 gallon is 3.78(etc) liters.. If I've got the math right, you're looking at 45 to 40 to 1 (using the numbers you provided).

This is, in my opinion one place where the metric system really works out well. I use a synthetic oil also. I break motors in at 25:1, and run them at 40:1. I only have to remember those two numbers, because if I add 40mL oil to 1 liter gas I get a 25:1 mix, if I add 25mL oil to 1 liter of gas I end up with a 40:1 mix.