Sprocket adapter slippage

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Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
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I tacoed another wheel today, third one so far. I'm using the sprocket adapter with a 41 tooth sprocket and I finally noticed what is happening to my wheel. Its not the wheel being to weak or the adapter loosing up, what is happening is the torque from the engine is causing the adapter to slowly move a tiny bit when I jump start it or pop the clutch on a trail to do a wheelie or get over rocks and what not.

So I rebuilt another wheel I had sitting around and put it all back together again today. Do you guys think drilling through the adapter and into the hub then screwing in a Allen stud would hold it in place or would it just snap the stud? It seems like a better idea then just depending on the adapter just clamping to the hub because no matter how tight I get it even with a breaker bar it still continues to slip.
 
Venice Motor Bikes

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA.
Post a picture of what you've got going on.

*edit*... There's no reason a hub adapter would slip if it's properly installed...post that pic! ;)
 
Last edited:
crassius

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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any time one has a piece that fits over another piece and is held by a clamp that squeezes the two together (hub adapters & motor mounts on frame come to mind), one must be sure to have enough shims under them to leave an air gap when the bolts are tight (this being the only way to tell if the torque is being applied to the squeezed area or just the spot where the bolt goes thru
 
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Agreen

Agreen

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Feb 10, 2013
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Venice Motor Bikes said:
Post a picture of what you've got going on.

*edit*... There's no reason a hub adapter would slip if it's properly installed...post that pic! ;)
Click to expand...
Couldn't agree more! If my 200cc 4 stroke can't slip my hub adapter through a torque converter transmission (gotta be careful with the wheelies) then a china girl shouldn't be able to either.
 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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Maine
Okay heres some pictures of the wheel currently this new hub seems a bit better then my old one. I'm pretty sure its installed correctly.




Heres what the old rim looked like its a lot more warped then the pictures show.

 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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I'm going to watch it closely it feels super tight if it moves again I may glue some inter tube material to the adapter, what would ad like 2mm.
 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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Maine





I can see its already moved from my last ride that was only about a mile I believe it will need shims after all.
 
Agreen

Agreen

Member
Feb 10, 2013
792
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Southeastern GA
I would think that inner tube material will deform and turn out just as bad. Wouldn't a thin shim made from a coke can work better?
 
Chaz

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Wouldn't it be better, if you had a grinder, to remove a bit of the adaptor's "meeting" surface to create a little gap? I'd feel more comfortable with this rather than shims.

By "meeting surface" I mean the flat part, not the curved mating surface.

I've been thinking about this because I'd like to upgrade from the rag joint.
 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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Maine
That sounds like a good idea but I dont think Ill use my grinder. Its aluminum so maybe Ill take the dremel to it with a sanding wheel. Or maybe just do it by hand. Weekend project I guess, time will tell but Ill get it fixed with time.
 
A

ajoh

Member
Mar 21, 2014
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australia
don't use a dremel it'll look like a dogs breakfast, use a file so you can keep it all nice an flat or take it to a machine shop an have them remove a few mm from it..........

to use the file simply clamp the file in a vice an using both hands sit the adapter on the file an push away from your self turn it 180 every few strokes this'll help keep things even (to a point) just remember to keep brushing the file with a wire brush to keep the cutting teeth clean..........
 
C

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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Best is take a piece of glass or flat surface, wet or dry sandpaper,a little water and just sand on it,will stay flat. Lapping like Agreen said..............Curt
 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
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Maine
So I went ahead and lapped it today with sandpaper on my plywood work bench, I didn't care much to how perfect it was just needed to remove roughly 1-2 mm of metal. It came out great and took about 10 mins didn't even need to remove the rear wheel.

Here's some pictures of how it looks now after lapping, it came out great and I believe it will work just fine. Time will tell.


 
Cylon

Cylon

Member
Jun 26, 2015
346
9
18
Maine
You could fit a piece of paper between there now on both sides. I was happy to see it not close after I bolted it back up.
 
G

GT4494

New Member
Oct 18, 2015
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Georgia
clean and use a drop of BLUE loctite on the bolts. That will make sure they will not loosen while allowing you to remove them in the future.

Do not use RED loctite, you will never get the bolts out. :)
 
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