Cyclone 900 or 1200 watt kit

would you post a link to the kit you have in mind. I'm not familiar with it. If you mean the difference between a 10AH. and a 20AH. It is the reading of the storage capacity of the battery. You will be able to ride longer with a twenty amp hour battery.

Can you charge the batteries at work.... If so the sla will work for you. I live in a pretty up and down area. I can do three to five miles on my sla batteries and still not run them completely down. I would thing either of the kits would be enough to climb hills, you might want check with some of the other guys I have a tiny little hub motor myself.

yes, hub motors are very strong now, you may find the tinkering to attach the cyclone a bit much.
You only need a 10Ah battery
What prices " floored " you on the lithium ?
u can contact falconev for more info

I can not speak for anyone else but I use a 24volt battery pack and I only ride it maybe five miles max per trip. I can do what I need on a 12 hour pack but a double pack is nice to ride with just in case,

I can buy two 24volt 12 hour packs(2@ 12v 12ah) for 100 bucks or so The equivalent lithium pack is several hundred bucks I think. I can build a trailer to haul the sla batteries on for about twenty bucks. It will out last either pack I think. I ride my bike about once a day so it isn't a big deal for me to charge my batteries.

Now one size does not fit all. I say that over and over again just to make sure no one thinks my judgments are universal> They are not. If I commuted every day, my needs in batteries would change drastically but I don't.

I get sticker shock when i look at the cost of batteries, but I expect that those costs will fall as they get higher production numbers and we find ways to adapt the batteries that are bound to come for automobiles in the future. For now I will stay with sla or maybe even junk yard car batteries if my tests on them prove them useful. I try to keep an open mind on new products and I think people should keep an open mind on old technology as well. One size does not fit all....

The Cyclone is an exellent choice in my book! Why be stuck with one gear hub. 900 or 1200 watt kit depends on your budget. You can skip the LiFePo4's and get SLA's too get your feet wet. They may last you a very long time with light usage and charging them imediately. If they die an early death its time to think about Lithium batties. I'm upgrading my batteries now, about a year overdue.
I sent an email to a guy about the costs of SLA vs Lithium. To save alot of typing I'm just going to copy & paste it. I accually went with Li Ion's. I'm getting 2 of these for a 24V 20AH pack High Tech Bikes. LiFePo4's didn't fit my pack or i would have gotten those.

"Well expense depends on how you look at it. $80 for a set of SLA's that have only been good for 150 cycles vs. $250 for Li Po's that are good for at least 1000 cycles. You would have to buy 6.66 SLA sets at a cost of $533 to last as long as 1 Li Po. I believe I can go as far with one Li Po pack as I can with 2 SLA packs. If so, the cost of the SLA's would double to $1066. In other words it would take $1066 in SLA's to go as far as $250 Li Po's. As as added bonus you get much more consistent power with Li Po's. They don't bog down under constant load unlike SLA's. Plus they are about 1/2 the weight."

Okay. $250 may be doable. Now, will a 24v 10ah battery run a 24v 450W 12ah motor? I use 2 12v 12ah sla batteries and can get up to 20mph on the flats, no pedaling. Are the numbers just the maximum figures? Like the batteries shouldn't exceed 24v or the 12ah. Is it that I'll get the same performance at a longer duration? I know. Lots of questions.

If its a typical brushed motor it drops the output in ratio to the voltage decrease. I have no idea about any others. I have used 12volts on a 24 volt brushed motor by accident. All it did was to decrease the number of rpms...

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That kit does look like a lot of work though. Also, the chain drive could mean more maintenance in the long run. The Crystalyte is easy-peasy to install (I had to spread the forks a bit, but it wasn't too much trouble).

The price and power of the kit looks good though. I wonder how rain-proof these kits are?

by the way I didn't mention that with a controller with voltage protection you have to use the right size power source. The controller shuts the motor down when the voltage falls significantly. At least mine does.

grouchyolfart said:

Okay. $250 may be doable. Now, will a 24v 10ah battery run a 24v 450W 12ah motor? I use 2 12v 12ah sla batteries and can get up to 20mph on the flats, no pedaling. Are the numbers just the maximum figures? Like the batteries shouldn't exceed 24v or the 12ah. Is it that I'll get the same performance at a longer duration? I know. Lots of questions.

Click to expand...

Motors don't go by an ah rating. I think sellers should say what amps they draw and the SLA's I have don't say anything abut the Amps they put out. Ah should not be confused with Amps. Ah is more about range, as far as I know. I believe the formula for figuring out if you have the right batteries for the right motor is Volt X Amps = Watts. Here is were my confusion lies. If the Amps for the battery and motor are unknown, how do you know your not going to fry anything? Well, I asked If the Li Ion's would work would damage anything. He said no, your range will increase. So I'm trusting him. I have looked up a replacement controller just in case. LOL



The voltage dictates speed.

grouchyolfart said:

Okay. $250 may be doable. Now, will a 24v 10ah battery run a 24v 450W 12ah motor? I use 2 12v 12ah sla batteries and can get up to 20mph on the flats, no pedaling. Are the numbers just the maximum figures? Like the batteries shouldn't exceed 24v or the 12ah. Is it that I'll get the same performance at a longer duration? I know. Lots of questions.

Click to expand...

The amp output is determined by the controller. The voltage has to match between motor, controller and batteries, but you could hook up a 24V 5,000AH battery pack to your setup if it could handle the weight (all downhill, all the time maybe!!).

On most (good) controllers, if the voltage drops too much it has a built-in circuit that turns off the controller, since a voltage drop is indicative of battery depletion (this is to prevent deep discharge).

The chemistry of the battery won't matter, except for when charging. Ideally, the charger should match the type of battery because they charge different (e.g. an SLA charger won't fully charge a LiFePO4 battery).

True range is tough to calculate given the number of factors. Power in Watts (V*I) is only useful to an extent, because it assumes output of the motor without resistance (hills, tire tread, weight etc.).
In reality, the amps drawn from the battery will vary considerably (although the 10-20 amp range is a safe bet from what I've read).

Since power (w) is a function of voltage, the higher voltage systems need less current draw to maintain a speed of say 20mph.

To really calculate the range of a 12AH system, here is a fundamental question:

How many amps does your system draw in order to maintain a certain speed on a flat grade? If we guestimate and say that it takes 10 amps to maintain 15mph, and we have a 10AH system, we get one hour at 15mph = 15 mile range. Keep in mind this is a VERY VERY VERY simplistic example (because I hate arithmetic), and it ignores MANY factors. To get closer to the truth, we have to take other things into account.

If we had real-world data of the amp draw over time, we could integrate the data and get a value for the power consumed during the trip (which is what these Watt's Up meters will do from what I've read, which is why I really want one!).

This is my understanding of it, anyway (corrections, anyone?). I hope to get some realistic numbers once I get one of these meters. I plan to do a lot of flat grade testing at that point...

cvpsmith said:

The amp output is determined by the controller.

Click to expand...

Correcting myself: Obviously, the motor also has a maximum amp rating...

Hal-
You work on all that stuff and a chain drive was too much work?

Okay as I understand this and I'm not saying i do.

A battery is like a gas tank.. Volts is the size of the gas line. It controls the flow to the motor. Amp hours or reserve amps is the size of the tank. How much fuel the tank (battery) has available.

The controller is a like the electric version of the carburetor. It in conjunction with the electric throttle controls the fuel going to the motor.

The bigger your motor the more fuel it will use. So if you use a small fuel tank (battery) you are going to fun dry faster. If you run your gasoline motor wide open, it will use more fuel. All that is true of the e-motor as well.

The motor wants to pull max amps all the time. It's like a gasoline motor it will run wide open if you don't throttle it down. If you run your gasoline bike up a big hill it slows down and gas consumption goes up. It's the same with an Ebike.

An electic motor pulls max amps when it is under load and is about to bog down. That's when it is pulling the most. The controller has to be able to handle the max amps of the motor or it will burn out. The voltage has to match as well so that it can accept the flow from the battery. I found that you can not put more voltage through the controller than it is set up for. At least I couldn't on mine.

It really pretty simple if you think of it that way. It's just a gasoline bike with different names for the components. We all know you need the right size carb for a gasoline engine, so it is the same with the controller.

Now I use a friction drive without a controller most of the time. It just doesn't seem to do that much good on them.

So you start with the motor.... exp: 36volt motor. you need a 36volt controller and 36volt battery

20amp motor.... you need at least a 20 amp controller. Like the bigger carb on a hot rod you can put a larger amp controller on but it won't pull more amps then the e-motor can run.

The amp hour of the battery will not effect the motor controller in any way except to run out of charge faster.

Now the controller on my bike does a couple of other cute things. It allows the motor to turn into a generator when it is turning faster than the controller is demanding power. Ie coasting recharges the battery some.

Mine also shuts down the motor before the battery is drained so that I wont damage the battery. It shortens the range of the charge but it helps with battery life I think.

Is there a report about E-Bikekit to share ?

Is this the same kit ?

Cyclone Experiences and USA distributor [Archive] - Bike Forums

Do not get it wet .
Ever.

I have 2 e bike kits.one is a bl36 I added a lipo 37v21ah battery pack to.the other is a golden motors 48V1000w with a lifepo4 48v 20 ah battery.they both cost me about 1100 ea.they are worth it.with sla batts you might get 15 miles at the most.I go on 35 mile trips all the time.they are still about half full.there like the energizer bunny.it all depends on how far you want to go.as far as power,hub motors are the way to go.they take up that much less space on your bike.I mount my battery packs mid frame just like a 2 stroke.works for me.and i see kits on e bay as low as 200 bucks w/out the batts.good luck~!