hey guys im new here and new to the motorized bike world. im planning on doing my first build here in a couple days so im trying to get some base info on the predator motor before I purchase one. I like the way they mount vertically instead of mounting them flat like you would think they go but I have concerns about mounting it upright. I understand that it takes more oil if you do. does any one know how much or what else id have to incorporate for oiling. also I would think by turning the engine the carb float would not work properly, what is done to correct this. these are the only to things I can think of that would be and issue but I cant find any exact answers looking through the previous threads. any help would be awesome. I am currently getting my frame ready and I think motor would look and fit better upright so please help me lol. thanks guys
212 predator ?,s
- Thread starter chervy7
- Start date
24 oz of oil, AGK sells a kit that puts the carb at the proper level and has a 22mm carb. You might want to put a aluminum flywheel on the motor if you are going to remove the gov. If your going to play in the 5000 rpm + zone then get the billit rod too.
Yes to your stock carb question------BUT.
The stock carb has linkage made for thumb lever type control, not twist throttle type.
Also the stock carb is way to small.
The stock carb has linkage made for thumb lever type control, not twist throttle type.
Also the stock carb is way to small.
thanks Bruce for the info. I don't plan on unhooking the governor yet maybe in time. this is my first build so id like to be able to build It and improve upon it. I can fabricate what I need so that doesn't concern me. ive never had to hook up a throttle cable on a bicycle so just seeing what its going to take. I can make a different intake to carb manifold to hold carb up right im just not sure if linkage would of been the same. with the 22mm carb do u just have to use the throttle cable into carb itself
You really don't want to start with hardest thing there is to build as a first motorized bike build bud, trust me on this.
I suggest you start with this $360 4-stroke kit for your first one.
http://www.gasbike.net/bike-motor-kit-grubee-2011-skyhawk-4-g-t-belt-v-2879-prd1.htm
That way you get everything you need to build a complete motorized bike.
When you start with a just Pred motor you have nothing and the costs to try to shove a giant 212cc engine in a bicycle frame for all the other parts you will need adds up fast.
The bike below was supposed to be my first 212 Pred with a TC2 torque converter and I gave up on that as soon as I put the tranny on and tried to set it in the frame.
I exchanged the monster 212 for a 79cc pred and bought the special 79cc pred tranny Quenton makes at EZ Motorbikes.
I just got it mounted today.
That is no sissy engine but a major pain and even after over $400 just for the engine and tranny I would need to buy everything else if I didn't have those parts down to buying or making the plate the engine bolts to opposed to ~$360 for everything to make this this 49cc kit bike on the exact same 19" Macarigi Fatal Love bike.
That machine will do 30+ MPH and it will get your feet wet with everything else before you try to start the really hard stuff.
Your call new guy, I am just trying to be helpful with some first hand tried it info.
I dunno, I like the HF engine way of building motorbikes.
Let's see:
79cc engine: about $80 with coupon
rollbar clamps for engine mounts: $40
1/4" aluminum plate for engine mount and jackshaft mount: $25 shipped
pillow block bearings for jackshaft: $15
5/8" maxtorque clutch: ~ $50
jackshaft and gears: ~$40 (northern tool or tractor supply)
Pz19 carb: ~ $20 ebay
intake manifold: $40 AGK
That makes up most of the things required to sit a HF engine upright in a frame. I left out all the common parts required regardless of whatever type of build you're doing (chain, rear sprocket adapter, etc).
So that's about $310, but building this way WILL require you to spend time researching, buying, waiting for deliveries, buying stuff that doesn't fit or work, etc.
Of course, you could always just buy a horizontal 4 stroke engine mount and forgo alot of the aforementioned cost and time. But for me, part of the fun is creating.
Let's see:
79cc engine: about $80 with coupon
rollbar clamps for engine mounts: $40
1/4" aluminum plate for engine mount and jackshaft mount: $25 shipped
pillow block bearings for jackshaft: $15
5/8" maxtorque clutch: ~ $50
jackshaft and gears: ~$40 (northern tool or tractor supply)
Pz19 carb: ~ $20 ebay
intake manifold: $40 AGK
That makes up most of the things required to sit a HF engine upright in a frame. I left out all the common parts required regardless of whatever type of build you're doing (chain, rear sprocket adapter, etc).
So that's about $310, but building this way WILL require you to spend time researching, buying, waiting for deliveries, buying stuff that doesn't fit or work, etc.
Of course, you could always just buy a horizontal 4 stroke engine mount and forgo alot of the aforementioned cost and time. But for me, part of the fun is creating.
Creating is fun when you have built a bike or two, know what to expect and have a decent shop of tools but this a nOOb's first build.
guyes I made my frame up last night and after test fitting the 212 I found that I could mount it horizontally like its ment to be but it seems overly larger then I like so I think I may just take the 212 back and get the 79cc. any rough ides on how fast these will move the bike along before I take it back. I know pulley sizes matter nut looking for a general out of the box speed. I will be making a header if that matters.
I've had this little 212cc Pred well over 65mph and this past weekend was hitting 54mph on the race track. It can be geared to go 75mph easily. And contrary to what Mr. Vale says, it's really not that hard to build......mine is on a stock Felt beach cruiser frame. It is somewhere in the neighborhood of 20hp however......it gets you there fast!
I agree about holding off on the 212 Preddy. I have one and it is a BIG motor. What frame are you intending to use? You may find that fitting in a 79cc is hard enough and the stress to a frame that 212ccs will produce may land you in the hospital. Make no mistake, that engine has a whole lot of torque. Even if the frame is good enough to hold up you will need to upgrade wheels, brakes and know what you're doing.
Not to throw water on your enthusiasm, but I agree to hold off on the 212. The 79 is a nice motor and there are upgrades (such as carburetor) for it as well. It's a gutsy engine and I have used one with the Qmatic transmission and was surprised how much grunt it has. That said, I am in the middle of a project using an engine of 147CCs and have plans for my 212 to go into a cyclecar in a couple of years. But I am so glad for the experience I had with first the kit 50cc, then swapping the engine for the 79CC... and with those experiences under my belt I'm ready for a little more power.
To some degree the 212 is an illusion in that the initial outlay is so tempting at a hundred bucks on sale or even less. But that's just the beginning. You may pay more for the billet flywheel than you did for the whole engine. And it goes from there. As the power increases so does the expense and the personal danger to yourself.. Have an idea how deep the water is before you jump...
That said, do go ahead with something, share what you're doing, ask lots of questions and have fun!
SB
Not to throw water on your enthusiasm, but I agree to hold off on the 212. The 79 is a nice motor and there are upgrades (such as carburetor) for it as well. It's a gutsy engine and I have used one with the Qmatic transmission and was surprised how much grunt it has. That said, I am in the middle of a project using an engine of 147CCs and have plans for my 212 to go into a cyclecar in a couple of years. But I am so glad for the experience I had with first the kit 50cc, then swapping the engine for the 79CC... and with those experiences under my belt I'm ready for a little more power.
To some degree the 212 is an illusion in that the initial outlay is so tempting at a hundred bucks on sale or even less. But that's just the beginning. You may pay more for the billet flywheel than you did for the whole engine. And it goes from there. As the power increases so does the expense and the personal danger to yourself.. Have an idea how deep the water is before you jump...
That said, do go ahead with something, share what you're doing, ask lots of questions and have fun!
SB
What Silverbear said here is also the advice I endorse.........very seriously. I sure didn't start off building these machines with a 212cc plenty powerful 4-stroke.
The 212cc Predator that I built originally was and still is strictly for racing.....it's not street legal and it does stand out as not just being a motorized bicycle.....especially mine. The engine did cost under $100 initially, but it's got $1,000 dollars invested into it now.
All that aside, my personal daily street commuter and week day cruiser is a 99cc Predator and it is just perfect for everyday use here on the streets of SoCal. I think you will be more than happy with the 79cc pred as the building challenges are much like the big brother engine and there are a few upgrades for it as well.
Happy building!
Again, for a nOOb I highly recommend a simple 49cc 4-stoke HS with 4G tranny complete kit to start with from like gasbike for ~$360 (thats what I buy) so you can make something you can ride in a couple of days and learn what all the parts do.
When you start with just an engine designed for another purpose you have to get creative and buy everything else piecemeal, and unlike those of us with all kinds of spare stuff around and good tools to make stuff you have to buy them or pay to have them made.
Just for a quick example of the last 2 days work on the 79cc Pred geared to the customer on his build topic on my site so he can follow progress...
---
I was told the 44T sprocket I had originally installed would be too small so we re-drilled a big nice aluminum 55T for a 9 bolt mount and got it installed. It turned out great, with our chain matching it may not need a tensioner at all but I'll put it on in case you do.
Since this engine is meant for something like a generator it has a manual throttle and a governor that limits max RPM to about 5400.
We don't need no stinking governors, you just have to be smart and not try to run it at 9800 RPM's for too long and burn it up ;-}
Nothing I found on the net was a simple solution to bypass all the stock throttle stuff and hook up a 1 1/2" pull 1/3 turn throttle cable so I came up with my own which is my favorite part of builds like this.
I simply removed the linkage and spring from the stock system so all I had was the throttles carb actuation tab on it.
That left finding a way to attach the throttle cable and there is a tab right there on the stock engine.
With the pull of the throttle cable and the range of motion for the carb arm hooked up direct would mean about a 1/10th of a turn of throttle from idle to wide open and that's no good.
The solution for full 1/3 throttle turn action was leverage on the carb arm so we used the 2 holes on the carb tab to attach our own longer plate at a 90 and our own spring as well as drilling out the engine mounted tab and installing an adjustable cable stay for the throttle cable.
This is the system at idle with the stock air cleaner on.
You don't even see a spring and the engines idle screw sets idle.
This is the throttle full pull 1.5" 1/3 turn which is full throttle on the carb so perfect.
In other news the custom exhaust pipe is made and waiting for the paint to dry, Pictures of it and the tank on by tomorrow as I can't dink around taking pics with work to do but Cole and I can't wait to fire this bad boy up and test it ;-}
---
These are the kinds of things you will need to do for everything no matter which way you spin it.
When you start with just an engine designed for another purpose you have to get creative and buy everything else piecemeal, and unlike those of us with all kinds of spare stuff around and good tools to make stuff you have to buy them or pay to have them made.
Just for a quick example of the last 2 days work on the 79cc Pred geared to the customer on his build topic on my site so he can follow progress...
---
I was told the 44T sprocket I had originally installed would be too small so we re-drilled a big nice aluminum 55T for a 9 bolt mount and got it installed. It turned out great, with our chain matching it may not need a tensioner at all but I'll put it on in case you do.
Since this engine is meant for something like a generator it has a manual throttle and a governor that limits max RPM to about 5400.
We don't need no stinking governors, you just have to be smart and not try to run it at 9800 RPM's for too long and burn it up ;-}
Nothing I found on the net was a simple solution to bypass all the stock throttle stuff and hook up a 1 1/2" pull 1/3 turn throttle cable so I came up with my own which is my favorite part of builds like this.
I simply removed the linkage and spring from the stock system so all I had was the throttles carb actuation tab on it.
That left finding a way to attach the throttle cable and there is a tab right there on the stock engine.
With the pull of the throttle cable and the range of motion for the carb arm hooked up direct would mean about a 1/10th of a turn of throttle from idle to wide open and that's no good.
The solution for full 1/3 throttle turn action was leverage on the carb arm so we used the 2 holes on the carb tab to attach our own longer plate at a 90 and our own spring as well as drilling out the engine mounted tab and installing an adjustable cable stay for the throttle cable.
This is the system at idle with the stock air cleaner on.
You don't even see a spring and the engines idle screw sets idle.
This is the throttle full pull 1.5" 1/3 turn which is full throttle on the carb so perfect.
In other news the custom exhaust pipe is made and waiting for the paint to dry, Pictures of it and the tank on by tomorrow as I can't dink around taking pics with work to do but Cole and I can't wait to fire this bad boy up and test it ;-}
---
These are the kinds of things you will need to do for everything no matter which way you spin it.
In all fairness to a big 4-stroke with no support parts they do turn out nice if you have the tools, the right required parts, spare parts, and creative skill.
Like Scotto 'the king of big 4-strokes' reiterated, it is just not how you want to get your motorized bicycle feet wet is all.
Like Scotto 'the king of big 4-strokes' reiterated, it is just not how you want to get your motorized bicycle feet wet is all.
Any strain on the mounting tabs on that Whizzer tank? Looks like you had to get creative to mount that tank.
Yep, had to get creative.
The back was easy to get angle I wanted, from the bottom up a regular gas tank bracket, a 1.5" muffler clamp on top, then spare spacers from a SBP front mount, bolts with a top washer and locking nuts.
By providing a flat to flat base for the spacers the tabs don't bear much.
The front was bit trickier, the same setup but much longer bolts and spacers.
I have a new thread here under Projects/Builds as 79cc Pred Q-matic 29" Macargi Fatal Love with all the details of this build.
I'm also new to the mob seen, but what I do know is that the motor kits suck. Most the stuff in them are junk. With a little planning and some know how, you can put together a better bike then the kit. If I could start over, I would get the 79 cc pred., and the things needed to set it up. If your not to handy with a wrench, there are bikes you can buy the kit fits right on it with no mods needed.
You said you are handy with tools Chervy7?
You said you are handy with tools Chervy7?
