Pull Starter: Broke 1 fits, New Doesn't

Fulltimer · Sep 7, 2010

The rope broke on my pull starter so I took it off to replace the rope. The starter self imploded! The little nut had come off and everything got chewed up. But before that it did work. I got the starter from BikeBerry. This time in an effort to spread business around I ordered one from Pirate Cycles.

BikeBerry starter is marked: "ZM"
Pirate Cycles is marked: "Young Xing"

The Young Xing doesn't want to work. I put the washer behind the bell and tighten down the nut. It won't budge a bit. Changed it by putting the washer between the nut and the bell. Same results. If I loosen the nut up, a bunch, it will turn the motor over. But it is VERY sloppy.

Will the Young Xing work some how or should I just return it and get another from BikeBerry?

Terry

scotto- · Sep 7, 2010

Just outta curiosity, a pull starter for what kind of motor? I'm presuming a 4-stroke, but......

Fulltimer · Sep 8, 2010

Its a 2 stroke. Other than that I don't know.

Terry

scotto- · Sep 8, 2010

Is it the type with the little white plastic bowtie in the center and the starter is held on with 4 small bolts? If so, when your bolting it on, sometimes that bowtie hangs up on the starter pawl, you have to pull the rope gently just an 1" or 2 so that it drops into place, then finish tightening it up but not too tight. Do you know the make of the motor?

Fulltimer · Sep 8, 2010

scotto- said:
Is it the type with the little white plastic bowtie in the center and the starter is held on with 4 small bolts? If so, when your bolting it on, sometimes that bowtie hangs up on the starter pawl, you have to pull the rope gently just an 1" or 2 so that it drops into place, then finish tightening it up but not too tight. Do you know the make of the motor?

That sounds like it alright. I'll post a couple of pictures later. Right now the wife is bugging me to do something.

Terry

Fulltimer · Sep 8, 2010

Okay here are 2 pictures:

Fulltimer · Sep 8, 2010

Geez, here we go again!

Terry

scotto- · Sep 8, 2010

Alrighty then....I know nothing about the pull starters on HT type engines....I've never had the pleasure of messing with one rotfl

Where's that GearNut when you need him? I'm sure there's plenty around here that can help you out....someones bound to chime in any minute now, hang in there bro.

The pull starter I was thinkin of is the type used on Tanaka, Mitsubishi and CY brand 2-strokes
Sorry I couldn't help Terry....maybe next time

scotto-

Fulltimer · Sep 8, 2010

Well, thanks anyway.

Terry

silverbear · Sep 9, 2010

Hello Terry,
I've had several pull start 2 strokes and the bell especially is of different thicknesses. I just recently ordered a pull start from Pirate for a PK-80 and also had clearance problems. At the suggestion of a forum member I removed the washers from the magneto bolts and used blue locktite instead of the lockwashers. That little bit made the difference and now there is clearance. Also, I put the central bolt washer behind the bell. Hope this helps.
SB

Fulltimer · Sep 9, 2010

silverbear said:
Hello Terry,
I've had several pull start 2 strokes and the bell especially is of different thicknesses. I just recently ordered a pull start from Pirate for a PK-80 and also had clearance problems. At the suggestion of a forum member I removed the washers from the magneto bolts and used blue locktite instead of the lockwashers. That little bit made the difference and now there is clearance. Also, I put the central bolt washer behind the bell. Hope this helps.
SB

I tried the washer in the back. If I tighten up the nut real tight I can't pull the rope out. Maybe as tight as I can and have it still work, using locktite? Or add another washer behind the bell?

Terry

silverbear · Sep 9, 2010

Fulltimer said:
I tried the washer in the back. If I tighten up the nut real tight I can't pull the rope out. Maybe as tight as I can and have it still work, using locktite? Or add another washer behind the bell?

Terry

Re read my post. I'm referring to the four small bolts behind where the pull start assembly fits. Those four bolts hold the magneto in place. The heads of those bolts are what the bell is rubbing up against. Remove the bolts one at a time and instead of using washers, use locktite when you replace each bolt. It will give you more clearance. You will still want to retain the flat washer behind the large bolt holding the pull start assembly in place. See if that gives you clearance. It did for me. Sorry I wasn't more clear about it.
SB

GearNut · Sep 9, 2010

Silverbear hit on exactly what I was thinking. I bet that the starter bell is sticking out too far. You can either do as silverbear suggests to reduce the overall thickness of the assembly on the crankshaft or grind down the outer edge of the bell. I would start with removing 1/8" from it. If you do not have a power sander or other easy means of grinding it, you can rub it on the sidewalk in a circular motion, occasionally turning it in your hand so you won't favor a particular area and wear it down crooked. Keep checking to insure that the material is being removed evenly. This method is by no means fast, but is is surprisingly effective.

Whatever you do, do not use a bench grinder that is made for grinding steel. The aluminum will stick to the grinding wheel and load it up. This will cause the wheel to go out of balance and it could explode.

Fulltimer · Sep 9, 2010

Thanks for the help guy! I appreciate it and will see what I can do with it.

Terry

hiker472 · Sep 9, 2010

Another thing that works is to grind that bell a bit, to help with the clearance issue. Next, when that's all said and done and the clearance is resolved, you may want to look into doing something about that plastic pawl because they have a habit of breaking.

My pull start finally bit the bullet, so I got the new upgraded one with the steel cable. It is set up way better than the old one and comes with a bell that has no clearance issues. The only thing I don't like about it is the steel cable, but when it goes, I'll replace it with rope.

Fulltimer · Sep 9, 2010

Okay, I took off the washers and put locktite on the bolts. IT WORKS!! Thanks guy. Now all I have to do is take the motor off the trike and put it on my, new to me, Dyno Roadster! Lots of work to do first though.

Terry

silverbear · Sep 9, 2010

Good deal. I had the same trouble and somebody suggested that to me. And I passed it along to you. Now it's your turn when the time comes. That's how it works here. What a great forum.
SB

Fulltimer · Sep 9, 2010

Your right, it is great forum!

Terry

ParadoX999 · Sep 24, 2010

Ive been thinking of trying a rope start. I was curious about how much force is needed to pull start a 66cc.

Also, can you guys recommend the best one, since multiple type were mentioned?

Thanks!

silverbear · Sep 24, 2010

ParadoX999 said:
Ive been thinking of trying a rope start. I was curious about how much force is needed to pull start a 66cc.

Also, can you guys recommend the best one, since multiple type were mentioned?

Thanks!

I've only used pull start assemblies from two vendors, so can't say that I've done comparison tests. I'd go with Pirate. The pull start works and it is a good outfit with great customer service. You might save a couple bucks with somebody from ebay, but what if it's a dud?
SB

Pull Starter: Broke 1 fits, New Doesn't

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