Breather

GoldenMotor.com

mason_man

Active Member
Jul 19, 2009
720
87
28
LA SoCal
Some 8yrs from my last post here. Still no need for any aid,and I know why.
Better take a look in here. Most of you guys have missed it.

Ray
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wrench

Well-Known Member
Aug 20, 2019
749
1,005
93
So Cal
Howzit Everyone,
I would like to share some more info about air oil modifications.
This is what works for me and what didn't work for me.
Modifications I write about are suggestions only.
My opinion is based on testing modifications.

Back in 2008 I noticed a modification Quenton had suggested.
He made an air oil passage tube and positioned it 1/4" from the top of the valve cavity.
He drilled holes in the sides of the tube bottom for oil drainage.
He made the hole in the cyl base gasket 1/2 the normal size.
This was in an effort to minimize the amount of oil that could pass through the valve cover vent port.

In my opinion, This didn't help the oil from escaping out the vent port much. The air oil still had a direct path to the valve cover vent port.
With the air oil passage tube top being only a 1/4" from the valve guides. This increased the air oil pressure directly into the valve guides. Causing more valve guide oil blow by.
By reducing the hole in the cyl base gasket This only increased the air oil pressure.

These modifications were not working for me.
But it gave me some ideas. I followed Quentons lead
.
My design changes to the Air Oil Passage Tube and Cyl Base Gasket.
I made the cyl base gasket hole full size. Bigger hole means less pressure.
I used 3/8" ID threaded tubing to make my air oil passage tube.
I screwed in the tube instead of pressing in the tube
I positioned my air oil passage tube to butt against the top of the valve cavity. I notched the top rear and the bottom rear of the air oil passage tube for air and oil circulation.
By making the air oil passage tube butt against the top of the valve cavity The air oil is redirected through the top rear notch in the tube and to the back wall of the valve cavity. This tube position controls the air oil even more reducing valve guide oil blow by.
The air oil no longer has a direct path to the valve cover vent port or the valve guides
I found this to be the best position of the air oil passage tube.

For the Seatpost C.A.O.S. Breather to perform 100%
The use of an air oil passage tube is not required.

I do not use special pistons or lower amounts of oil with an oil stabilizer in order to control the air oil mist from the breather hoses.
The Seatpost C.A.O.S.Breather will control 8oz to 10 oz no problem.
I use 20-50w oil with zinc

With my design of the Seatpost C.A.O.S. Breather the only thing one can see is a hose fitting on the backside of the seatpost.
The Seatpost C.A.O.S. Breather allows 0% of air oil mist to escape into the atmosphere also prevents any dirt from getting into the engine.
Open vent hoses will suck dirt into the engine.
I hope this info can help someone.

I know there is more than one way to skin a Kat .
Aloha Wrench
 

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mason_man

Active Member
Jul 19, 2009
720
87
28
LA SoCal
You have changed your post. To bad.
Your air,oil separator in the tappet cavity is too big. Adding more oil to the crank case only worsens the problem. The motor can't even handle 8 oz of motor oil with the modifications. Adding more Heat, guess what's going to happen.
Running your motor at 30 miles an hour with all the riding that you do, you wouldn't have any problems whatsoever with oil purging. Heat.
Heat from the top of the motor,being transfer to the case, stopping the oil from doing what it's supposed to do.
At what RPM's is there turbulence or from the heat.

I don't have any of these symptoms.

Ray
 

wrench

Well-Known Member
Aug 20, 2019
749
1,005
93
So Cal
I see in the pictures some kind of C.A.O.S. Breather.
Looks like one off a Cushman.
I'm glad your happy with your modifications.
I guess their working for you
Your always so worried about HEAT.

I did my modifications 10 years ago
My air oil passage tube has a 3/8" ID
My Modifications work for me just fine.
Don't forget Modifications are Just Suggestions.
I would of noticed by now after 37,000 miles on my Whizzer. If I had a problem with Heat.
She runs just fine.
Without all the fancy heat coatings you like to brag about so much.

There is more than one way to skin a Kat

Yea I change my post sometimes I don't like my sentence structure.
 
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mason_man

Active Member
Jul 19, 2009
720
87
28
LA SoCal
Some more information, the next time you change your oil, only put in 7 oz.
The vintage whizzer use 6 to 8 oz.
So can you.


Ray
 

wrench

Well-Known Member
Aug 20, 2019
749
1,005
93
So Cal
Howzit Ray,
Thanks for the suggestion.
That's what Whizzer USA Debbie or Dave used to recommend.
They had no solution for the oil venting problem.
They told me that I was the only one who had that problem.

This is a New Gen Motor not a Vintage motor.
I suggest you try 8oz to 10oz of oil.
With a breather system that can control that much oil.
Maybe you won't have a heat problem.
These air cooled motors rely even more on the correct volume of oil for proper cooling.
I would not want leave for a 100 mile ride with only 6oz to 7oz of oil in the case.
In my opinion that's when ya should add a few oz of oil.
After 100 miles I change the oil anyways.
ALOHA Wrench
 
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mason_man

Active Member
Jul 19, 2009
720
87
28
LA SoCal
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Wernch you're alittle confused here. Let me help you out. The WC-1's were the only ones to use is breather. For some odd reason, the NE's and SE's didn't use the breather. The SE motor was the last series motor made by Whizzer USA .
Your motor NE had a soft plug, SE nothing,drill and tap. No NE motor use this breather. Unless you have something that shows, says something different.

Whizzer Service Bulletin #1 12/31/98 cleared this up for the WC-1, you'll need more history for your model.
Anyway, here's a picture of the SE motor (early) motor number 36 showing no hole for the breather.
Odd huh :)