Is there a best bicycle for a Friction Drive setup?

The worksman frame I just got seems like it would be a choice bicycle for any application.
"Worksman, its a bicycle Not a toy" (or some such sales line)

Touching it kinda reminds me of the feel of the metal parts of playground equipment at the park.very heavy duty.

The nice thing about friction drive is that it can be adapted to just about any bike and you can mount it over the front tire for front wheel drive, over the rear for rear wheel drive, or if you want lots of acceleration and "go anywhere" capabilities, you could mount one on each wheel for 2 wheel drive...

I just put that exact engine kit on a new Electra Townie 7D. Took a bit to fit it on but the bike is nice and light and seems to be a great match. Very quite running bike that bothers no one.

I was curious about FD and found the simplicity to be cool. I am researching tire replacements as I am sure the wear factor will be about the only item that I will need to contend with.

Tom

Lifer,

To fit the FD set up so it sits level, I went to Ace Hardware and bought a couple pieces of strap steel and some nits and bolts to extend the stock bracke some. Also had to grind a crescent shape in the bracket where it fits to the seat stay area for tire clearance. All easy to do. I can do pictures tomorrow if I am not clear

Most likely many other bikes would not need these modifications . I like to tinker so it was not any trouble.

Tom

As Kits go dax offers more hardware options, but Staton's FD,(I believe),
is more precisely machined. I've spent the last 4 years trying to create a drive
roller the worked well in wet conditions. I've made several that worked pretty
well , but the best so far was a simple fix. I burned some #36 grit emery paper,
and panned off the ash 'til all that was left was black corundum sand. This stuff
is next in hardness after diamond. After roughing & cleaning my Staton roller,
I mixed the grit into JB weld,& painted it onto the roller to a uniform round surface.
This grips like crazy, but if you open throttle too quickly it will eat your tire like
a chainsaw in balsa. Always pedal off to 7 or 8 mph & open the throttle gently.
This is always a good idea anyway as it will prolong the life of your clutch.
If done right with a proper tire it should last nearly as long as it would just
pedaling.
What I like most about friction drive is having the option to simply lift off the roller
& pedal or coast when I feel like just ambling slowly along taking in the sights &
sounds.
For me the best bike for this kit an old school steel Mtn bike. Front suspensions okay,
full suspension sucks. The Mtn bike gives one the low range needed should one
have to pedal. A steel,(chromo), frame will hold up better than alu, and a lugged
frame is better still.
The picture is of my chromo Giant Mtn bike with a Tanaka PF4210
with both FD & optional belt drive. both can be used off the Staton kit.
It's my 'bugout' bike. 25 mph, 40 with he belt.