modified cdi and cr 80 coil
- Thread starter damo99
- Start date
Now that Dracothered has sorted so timing can b advanced we need 2 know its not 2 far advanced. Ur plug is a good indicator. The sides of the center electrode should have an all over even covering of tan oxide. If the very end 1/2 mm or so shows a band of bare metal the timing is a bit 2 far advanced & the heat generated from this has burnt the oxide off. Advancing the timing can make good power but u dont wanna hole a piston. If u've ever got the motor apart, look at the underside of the piston crown. If its black from burnt oil ur running 2 hot. Cheers
I'm not 100% sure which jumpers do what, so if you could clear that up I will up date the drawing so everyone knows what ones do what.
ok, test 2 set overall timing under low RPM load (acceleration). The most advanced would b to select the 27ohm pulldown, no other jumpers tho it may b 2 far advanced. U could bridge the 100 ohm 4 next most advanced but bridging the 390/100 unbridged is the most advanced I've used. Add either the 120 ohm or 220 ohm will retard it by about 3 or 6 degrees. Outta phone screen, nother post
Now we get 2 Jag spec. Select 16 ohm pulldown. 4 a bit more advance leave the 100 & 390 unbridged, tho 100 bridged/390 unbridged is stock Jag spec. Again, add either 120 or 220 ohm will retard roughly 3 or 6 degrees. If u add both it will retard a bit more. I imagine that between all settings there will b some overlap. 1 more post. Cheers
Ok wotever setting gives best low RPM performance is the right 1. Both 0.47uf caps could b on jumpers if u want tho 1 is good enough. Adding steepens the Hi RPM retard curve. Test 4 position @ WOT windout 4 best speed. Start without jumpers then add 1 @ a time if u use 2 jumpers. Highest speed setting is the right 1, button it up. Thanks heaps Dracothered, u've been invalueable. Cheers
Hi, the way I said 2 add the 120 & 220 ohm jumpers is back 2 front. Add the 220 will retard a little, the 120 about twice as much, the both 4 twice as much again. 4 people in Oz wanting 2 build, components r instore or online thru JAYCAR. Polypropylene charge caps r catalogue No. RG-5240, $2-50 each. Timing caps r catalogue No. RZ-6640, $0-65 for the 4.7uf & RZ-6626, $0-60 for the 0.47uf. The 1/2 watt 1% metal film resistors r there for a few cents each,, as is the prototype board @ about 4 bucks. Cheers
Hey Dracothered, I hate 2 do this 2 u, u've done such a good job & I shoulda picked it up b4 (my bad eyes & small screen phone dont help)' but move the end of the 33 ohm resistor closest 2 the kathode of the SCR to the junction of the 1K resistor & the 390 ohm resistor. Sorry mate, u really have done a great job. Cheers
U have 2 build urself, its only a few bucks in components, plus an external coil which u can get for around 25 bucks for a good 1. I'll put a new 1 together as developed by Dracothered next week when the electronics store is open & try to get pics of both sides of posted (I'll have 2 get some1 to do 4 me as its above my capability) so people can c the layout. Its pretty simple really. Cheers
Ok, kool stuff! I don't know anything about electronics but got a fellow rider that does. A parts list would very help full. I have any electronics surplus store 3 blocks from my house . I have a jaguar cdi I bought 3 months ago and I'm very pleased with the performance of it. I have almost no vibration at 7500rpm.s . My other bike run great but it will Reallllllyyyyyy fly smooth with a shall we say a clone CDI on it! Thanks for your excellent research and work.
Circuit diagram
Here is the Board Layout from the parts side.
Foil side of the board
Modified CDI parts list.
5ea 1N4007
SCR,C106D,4A,400V,TO-202AB CASE
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?freeText=C106D&langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=160119&search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
Resistor ½ watt 1% Metal film
16
27
33
100
120
220
390
760
1K
Capacitor
2ea 0.47uF 35v Tantalum
2ea 0.47uF 275v Polypropylene
4.7uF 35v Tantalum
Jumpers
5ea 3 pin male jump, (HEADER,.1 INCH STRAIGHT MALE)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_109576_-1
5ea Connector Shunt Female 2 Position
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_793792_-1
Heat sink (NOTE: ONLY NEEDED IF SCR IS A TO-220 PACKAGE)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_326596_-1
NOTE: All parts listed with URL's are examples of what you need.
Here is the Board Layout from the parts side.
Foil side of the board
Modified CDI parts list.
5ea 1N4007
SCR,C106D,4A,400V,TO-202AB CASE
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?freeText=C106D&langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=160119&search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
Resistor ½ watt 1% Metal film
16
27
33
100
120
220
390
760
1K
Capacitor
2ea 0.47uF 35v Tantalum
2ea 0.47uF 275v Polypropylene
4.7uF 35v Tantalum
Jumpers
5ea 3 pin male jump, (HEADER,.1 INCH STRAIGHT MALE)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_109576_-1
5ea Connector Shunt Female 2 Position
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_793792_-1
Heat sink (NOTE: ONLY NEEDED IF SCR IS A TO-220 PACKAGE)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_326596_-1
NOTE: All parts listed with URL's are examples of what you need.
Attachments
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Well done Dracothered. This really is a big + for everyone as the CDI does make the motor run much smoother right thru the rev range with a hotter spark (depending on coil used, CR80 coil gives hottest), while developing better low RPM power & allowing it to rev much higher. U dont need electronics knowledge to put it together, & if u run into any problems dont hesitate to ask questions. Cheers
I do hope that someone that has a bike could build one of these and test it out as I right now don't have a bike to use it on. I would be willing to build one for someone, but I can't do it for free and really we need a test bed one first before a final build one can be built.
Hi Dracothered, I have 1 of each type 4 my bike & have built a couple 4 other people. I had planned on putting 1 of the 1's as u've developed during the last week but havent had time to get to the local electronics outlet. I'll get there in the morning & grsb a bit of prototype board, SCR & the caps & put 1 together. I've got plenty of 1/2 watt metal film resistors. Hopefully I'll have enough time over the weekend. Cheers
Hi all,
Im trying to find a SCR C106D that is 600v 8A.
But im finding it hard.
Would a C106M1 or a C122E do?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZX7012
http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/C106-D.pdf
an SCR C106D but 4A and 400v
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZX7006
any help would be great. im still in the 'finding all the parts' stage
Im trying to find a SCR C106D that is 600v 8A.
But im finding it hard.
Would a C106M1 or a C122E do?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZX7012
http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/C106-D.pdf
an SCR C106D but 4A and 400v
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZX7006
any help would be great. im still in the 'finding all the parts' stage
This one would be a better choice or one similar.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_14761_-1
Also used with this type of heat sink.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_326596_-1
