Carb Clearance??

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jrol22

New Member
Mar 19, 2010
83
0
0
IL
Ok. So i Have a 20" Chopper.
Ive figured out the engine mounting. HOWEVER, I still cant really figure out how to clear the Carb.

I've thought about a Flipping the carb around to wrap around the left side of the engine (while sitting on the bike.) Somewhat to mimick the air intake of a Harley or a Honda?

My question is, would THAT affect the engine at all? Since The carb and throttle would be wrapping around the Engine Before actually reaching the Engine.

Any Ideas would be GREATLY appreciate it.

P.s. I'd like to post pics...sadly I cant remember how to do that... :/
 

Dogtown Burner

New Member
Sep 15, 2011
349
3
0
Los Angeles
Ok. So i Have a 20" Chopper.
Ive figured out the engine mounting. HOWEVER, I still cant really figure out how to clear the Carb.

I've thought about a Flipping the carb around to wrap around the left side of the engine (while sitting on the bike.) Somewhat to mimick the air intake of a Harley or a Honda?

My question is, would THAT affect the engine at all? Since The carb and throttle would be wrapping around the Engine Before actually reaching the Engine.

Any Ideas would be GREATLY appreciate it.

P.s. I'd like to post pics...sadly I cant remember how to do that... :/

Pics always save time and explain things. (1000:1 ratio. )
anyway, "wrapping" your intake around like a harley will increase your overall intake mix volume between the carb and engine. and the diameter of the intake in relation to length will greatly affect this. your throttle response may be delayed by miliseconds, but you'd never notice. think of Dan Bernoulli's principle of fluid dynamics: "as the speed of a fluid increases, it's temperature and pressure decrease". this happens to the fuel in the pre atomization phase in the carb and intake in a chamber called a venturi. basically a horizontal hourglass shape. this theorum will answer your question in regards to your design planform. so you see of course the problem would be in fuel delivery pressure. it will decrease with greater port volume unless a change is made to compensate for aspect ratio of the manifold. the port really needs to match the carb outlet diameter, jet size, and cylinder volume, and the puzzle expands from there. making a narrower intake would compensate for the greater length, but this is all best answered by gearnut if you can reach him. Good luck. My advice? ( albeit unsolicited and bad) is to move that engine forward an inch.
 

jrol22

New Member
Mar 19, 2010
83
0
0
IL
Thanks drag ray. Ill get ahold if a weldr and do it myself then. But in the meantime, what if i just cut off. Part of the intake tube? Just so the carb will sit closer enough to the engine just enough to clear the frame
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
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Left coast
Sure! Nothing wrong with shortening the intake length.
...just so there is sufficient room left to mount the carb!
rc
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
yeah you can shorten the intake, but it might put your carb at a weird angle.
just make sure that the float bowl sits level or the carb will flood over, or it'll run out of gas during long full throttle blasts.
if you can weld, you can easily make an intake tube.
OR, you could buy one of the billet intakes that's already made a lot shorter than the stock intake.
a shorter intake will take away from bottom end torque, while a longer intake will add some bottom end torque.
 

jrol22

New Member
Mar 19, 2010
83
0
0
IL
Well luckily I think I found a solution.
Instead of ordering parts or welding.

Using the original Carb intake, I went ahead and got some copper tubing, a 90 degree elbow to be exact. Now the Carb sits perfectly fine. Even, and still gives the chopper a little more aggressive look.

I talked to a fellow motorbicycler that lives near me and we figured out that it wouldnt really be THAT BIG of a difference with throttle responce. and the loss of power would be minimal if any since were just turning the carb 90 degrees.

Anyone done that here?
 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,742
1,212
113
CA
A little be late in responding but heres what I found, no problem with 90 degree elbow, other issues from airfilter not being matched for the carb I used that has no mixture adjust needle valve screw.

No problem, I did use a Tecumseh 90 degree elbow that came off a Toro Mower and used it on My Briggs 3hp 4stroke.

It took making a small adapter plate to use as it was for screw hole 90 degrees turned for the two screws (not the 90 degree bend). I used flat head screws and countersunk them so the flange would not have bolts heads making the adapter unusable to attach to the intake on the engine. The thread and nuts with lock washers are on the oppisite side of the adapter away from the engine not seen. They don't hit or interfere with anything, just hold the adapter onto the 90 degree elbow as one unit.

Then it got a little more complicated, not though because of using the 90 degree elbow or the simple adapter plate, but that my engine was on about a 17 degree tilt aft.

That got me thinking what’s wrong with another adapter plate to cancel that tilt out so the float in the bowl on the carb is happy. I made that adapter.

Then the airfilter, I had none that fit the carb as before I was using an older vacujet carb that used an integral gas tank and an oil bath airfilter and used a choke not primer bulb. That setup was going to not fit in the frame due to the seat post down tube with or without the 90 degree elbow so I have a float bowl carb with separate gravity feed gas tank on top tube.

I made use of the airfilter housing from the Toro Mower that was modified to fit. Problems arose when I thought I needed an airfilter that had an integral primer bulb that worked by connection to the carb. I made a third adapter that got that solved.

Then the real deal was when I had it running but had bogging down at high rpm even without any load. I tried the timing at the breaker points and almost had it licked, but wanted it perfect.

I tested without any airfilter on non-windy day and no dust around with engine stationary. Ruining an engine is just that simple with dust getting in, so don't try this without thinking it out first! It worked fine. I thought maybe the foam airfilter was not giving enough air and was too rich a mixture. I was not going to try to change jets as the lawn mower shops are not really set up to help there, except to sell a new engine or have you use all one brand on an engine.

Since the cheap carb has no adjustment needle valve (which in hind sight I would have spent additional 20 bucks on) I thought then get a pleated paper airfilter as it probably is less restrictive and would solve the richness issue.

Ebay found the two part housing with primer bulb for the Briggs at 1/5 the cost of new, local hardware store the new pleated paper filter, and very thin foam prefilter new from lawn mower shop and it roars just as it did with the prior vacujet carb with integral gas tank and oil bath airfilter.

So many things can be changed and there are some that cannot. The 90 degree elbow surely had no change as I could tell. They do say the length of the intake as it gets longer give more low rpm power and shorter give high rpm power. Small length changes I don’t think are even noticeable.

Measure Twice's Thread: Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?

Probably not going to build side car as it was just a though if the dirt bike design adapted for art vehicle got too heavy and I could not ride it. I even thought of training wheels that had shock absorbers but I'll see. I want to change the thread name and emailed internally to the site help and never got an answer so it stays the same name.

The working bike before I adapt it to be geared down using more pulleys and jack shafts to 47:1 ratio for parade speed is shown on Page 3, Post #28, Picture 3 of 5.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=3

Like to hear how the adapter works!

MT
 

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