upgrades help

GoldenMotor.com

clashed13

Member
Aug 30, 2011
126
0
16
Michigan
Ok so I have about 150 to upgrade my bike, it only ran for about 12 hours max so far. Then one day pop my spark plug flew out and its covered in gas dark black what does that mean? So after that I couldnt get it to run fully. And the carb was pouring out gas. So I was like DAM!! So I tried the next day to run it and now im hearing a loud spark So I thought it was the CDI so I orderd a brand new CDI from gasbike for about 25 dollars shipped it should be here tommorow. So until tommorow I wont know if it was the CDI or not. The bike has been sitting about 5 days and i turned off the fuel and everything. No fuel is coming from carb any more so I think it unflooded itself. But anyways I just orderd an RT carberator from datsdax, and I remembered my motor isnt propperly mounted its squishing the carberator. So I HAVE to order a front mount from SBP I was looking at one for $15 but I need to know the outer diameter of my down tube frame and idk it so Tommorow if my bike gets running im going to have to buy a caliper just to use it once to meausure my dam down frame. UGHHH so much to do! ok so I have about $90 left and I want to get some performance parts, I was looking at getting a expansion chamber but then I tohught I could wait till christmas for $80. So what I want to know is what upgrades should I get low cost but effective. I was looking at a manic mechanic Manic Mechanic Billet Intake Manifold BikeBerry.com intake. But does it fit? I heard it gives big performance for low cost. so yeah any suggestions on what to get? any comment is appreciated.Oh yeah I have a chinese 2 stroke 80cc . Sorry for long post just very excited to upgrade my happytime!.shft.
 

madcroc

New Member
Aug 24, 2011
26
1
0
california
First, I would break in your motor before trying to tune anything. This site is has a wealth of information on mostly every question you have about the HT, the google search is awesome and is your friend! :)

From my research:

1. UPGRADE YOUR BRAKES IF YOU'RE ONLY RUNNING A COASTER BRAKE
2. See #1
3. Purchase the hardware kit and head studs from SBP
4. Replace all gaskets
5. NGK6HS Spark plug
6. Buy some high temp bearing grease, a cone wrench and service your wheel bearings (do this regularly)
6. Port match (free if you have a file!)
7. 41t or 36t sprocket depending on terrain and rider weight
8. X-pipe
 
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clashed13

Member
Aug 30, 2011
126
0
16
Michigan
whats the x pipe for? What is port match? I have that spark plug. ANd do you mean replace the head gaskett?? sorry im still a noob :(
 

madcroc

New Member
Aug 24, 2011
26
1
0
california
No worries my friend, we all have to start somewhere! I found the following posts/forums extremely helpful:

MotoredBikes.com: Motorized Bicycle Forum - View Single Post - Tips I've learned from many builds-great newbie read.

Classic Instructions for Building and Repairing Motorized Bicycle Engine Kits - Motorized Bicycle: Engine Kit Forum

I find as you tinker and continue to build more questions arise. Most everything you need to know about working on these engines are in these forums. Personally, I did most everything listed in that first thread that I had the tools and capability to do. If you're using a cruiser bike and need a custom front mount I can't say enough about Al.Fisherman. He made me a custom mount for $20 and it works great.

For my MB specific parts, I like www.sickbikeparts.com, www.thatsdax.com and www.piratecycles1.com. Everything else I get at my local autozone or hardware store. I know it's exciting and you just want to ride, same thing happened to me, I'm glad I took my time though. If you're going to do it right, might as well start from the beginning..if you do your HT will thank you in the long run. :)
 
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clashed13

Member
Aug 30, 2011
126
0
16
Michigan
theres so much to do After I read that!! Lots of small things to do but worth it in the long run. IM thinking about not buying so much into the upgrades anymore and get the neccesities done first. I think I will do that. One thing how the heck do I get the head gasket nut screws off? They are long acorn shaped and not much space to put a wrench in!!?
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Use a deep socket and ratchet.
Be careful to not over torque them back on later, and ditch the acorn nuts. get standard nuts from a vendor or your local hardware store.
 

madcroc

New Member
Aug 24, 2011
26
1
0
california
10mm for 6mm studs

13mm for 8mm studs

edit: Do you have a socket set and a torque wrench? I definitely recommend using a torque wrench on the head studs and every other bolt as well. Here's a link to a cheap torque wrench that will work fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

Also found an updated list from Al.Fisherman, check it out:

No, use a good gasket sealer like Indian Head.. made by Permatex, or something like aviation gasket sealer. We used AGS on Volkswagens on both the case (split case, no gasket used) and head to case surfaces. Before you go too far change the hardware out. Stock is cheap junk and will lead to problems down the road.

These are the things that I do, I see that others such as the seals (which I've never had one go bad) mentioned. All these mods or replacements are most likely less then $50.00. Choose what works for you, ignore the rest, but here you have them.

1. Unpack engine, familiarize your self with them.
2. Check for any missing parts. Depending who you buy from you maybe out of luck. Two sellers come to mind. Luckyearlybird and BGF.
3. Remove head
4. Mill head (flat glass and 230 (or finer) grit sand paper. Rub gasket surface to insure it is flat. Check the cylinder also. This will ensure that you have a good gasket surface. Eliminates blown head gaskets by a large percentage.
5. Tap cylinder stud holes to insure they are taped to the bottom. Some engines aren’t taped to the bottom. This can be a problem with the studs pulling out..
6. Discard all studs and nuts. Studs the length of the cylinder are hard to find. Fastener supply has metric all thread. There are a number of vendors that have kits, including myself. But replace them.
7. Replace studs with Metric 8.8 (US Grade 5) Replace nuts with locking nuts. 8mm studs are either 1.0 or 1.25 thread, 6mm studs are 1.0 thread. 8mmX1.0 is not common, but I have 1 engine with them. Do this because the Chinese hardware is junk and prone to strip or shear off.
8. Replace spark plug with a NGK or any good brand.
9. Replace spark plug wire and boot (check with lawnmower supply) or rob from old lawnmower. Use wire core lead. The stock is junk and WILL cause problems down the road.
10. Mount the engine properly, no gaps between the bike tubes and engine mounts.
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket This will also help to keep the studs from snapping off.
11. Torque 8mm to 120 to 175 INCH POUNDS (max for cast aluminum is 204 inch pounds).
12. Torque 6mm to 60-70 INCH POUNDS (max on these are 75 inch pounds).
13. I install cylinder studs with lock tite, and let set overnight. Optional, I do it to all my builds.
14. I coat the head gasket with Copper Kote (I coat each side twice and let dry)
15. May need to bend exhaust pipe for crank or frame clearance. Recommend using heat. There are other methods, but you won’t hear that from me.
16. Remove or cap magneto white wire off. This is used for low watt lights…it won’t work with a light you can see with, believe me.
17. Re solder blue wire on magneto. Factory has had bad connections, (cold solder joints).
18. Wiring. BLACK Coil wire to BLACK CDI wire, BLUE coil wire to BLUE CDI wire.
19. When hooking the kill switch, don’t be concerned with wire colors. Hook one wire to the black wires, and the other wire to the blue wires. (See # 21)
20. Make sure all wires have a good connection (solder best) and use tape or better yet heat shrink.
21. Hook up kill switch wires AFTER you get engine running. This will eliminate a defective switch should you have trouble starting the engine.
22. Try not to drill holes in the bike frame. Weakens the frame, I did one and the frame split in two.
23. Do away with the clutch cable routing; there are a number of options.
Homemade Mods pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
24. On my kit the rag joint had gauge (Metric) 8.8 bolts, If not replace them. I replaced the nuts with lock nuts.
25. I sealed the wires coming from the magneto out of the engine with RTV.
26. Place a “O” ring in the carburetor throat. NAPA has an assortment. Buy them each.
27. Some say replace the axle with a better one. Never had an axle bend on me.
28. Use thin wire (I use Stainless safety wire).and wrap around the idle screw and secure to the carburetor.
Homemade Mods :: Safety wire the idle screw picture by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
29. For coaster brakes…Some say trim the cap, but I don't like it.
Bearing cap mod - YouTube or a file of sorts can be used.
 
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clashed13

Member
Aug 30, 2011
126
0
16
Michigan
so much money to spend when im only going to use these tools a couple times... can I just guess how much torque i put on? like once it starts getting hard to bolt them on I stop? And I just left a comment on als page about a motor mount.
 

TheJimGuy

New Member
Aug 22, 2011
10
0
0
Jacksonville, FL
Do not get wrapped around the axle about the cost of the tools. Firstly I PROMISE you that you will get your moneys worth out of the tools, and then some. (Plus you can get more that sufficient quality tools for our use at Harbor Freight. On line if not local.). Guessing torque = warped head. (Torque wrench at HF is $14.99) I am new to this as well, but have learned that the motors need only a reasonable amount of attention paid to them to keep running trouble free.

1. Check chain tension before every ride. Tighten it right away if it needs it, NOT when (if) you get back.
2. Check and tighten all bolts and nuts on the engine, mounts, and bike. (toss the fenders if you have them).
3. Use quality fasteners, not the supplied junk.
4. Use good gas and good oil (don't skimp to save $.25)

That is pretty much it. Everything else out there are just neat add on's to make the bike sound, look, feel neat or gain a few MPH here or there.

Stick with the basic bike and motor till it is broken in. THEN go an get the fun stuff.

Thats my two cents worth.
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
5
0
Calera, Alabama
I haven't read through all the responses..

Diameter of tube from circumference...

Example 4: The circumference of a circle is 15.7 centimeters. What is the diameter?
Solution:
C equals Pi times d
15.7 cm = 3.14 · d
15.7 cm ÷ 3.14 = d
d = 15.7 cm ÷ 3.14
d = 5 cm
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
5
0
Calera, Alabama
edit: Do you have a socket set and a torque wrench? I definitely recommend using a torque wrench on the head studs and every other bolt as well. Here's a link to a cheap torque wrench that will work fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

A foot pound torque wrench will get you by, but I'd recommend a INCH pound torque wrench.

1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

Unless you want to get into automotive engines and the like, then the FOOT pounds might serve you better. The INCH pounds will be more useful for a noob.
 
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madcroc

New Member
Aug 24, 2011
26
1
0
california
edit: Do you have a socket set and a torque wrench? I definitely recommend using a torque wrench on the head studs and every other bolt as well. Here's a link to a cheap torque wrench that will work fine: 3/8" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench

A foot pound torque wrench will get you by, but I'd recommend a INCH pound torque wrench.

1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

Unless you want to get into automotive engines and the like, then the FOOT pounds might serve you better. The INCH pounds will be more useful for a noob.
Very true, I ordered the 3/8" FT LBS wrench because it was the only one on sale. Would have got the 1/4" for sure.

Also, if you only buy one tool it should be that torque wrench. It won't be wasted because if you make use of it like you should, you'll be using it before every ride. $15 is worth damage to the engine or worse - yourself.
 

jokesonu

New Member
Aug 23, 2010
30
0
0
Moses Lake Wa
Hi there Clashed. Do you have a welder or a buddy with one? The downtube on your cranbrook is 1 1/2 diameter. That motor mount you need is nothing but a muffler clamp with a piece of z metal on it. Just get a standard muffler clamp 1 1/2 and two small pieces of angle iron and drill the holes for the engine on one and the clamp on the other slide them against each other back to back till you get the height you need and weld them up. Don't kid yourself you are going to need wrenches and a socket set more than a few times. Maybe the sbp mount on the front will be just right if you lower the rear of the engine some. In anycase that carb needs to be close to level as you can make it. Sounds like the float might be stuck or its too out of level to work correctly. If its dumping raw gas into the crankcase your going to blow the seals at least. Take your time and get that motor set before you tear down the street. I have a cranbrook too although all I really wanted was the motor on it. It's going in a 48 schwinn that's waiting for wheels. Then I am feeding the cranny to my chop saw. The brakes suck for anything over about 6 miles an hour. But you got what you got so my upgrades would be a springer fork with the v brake bosses from pirate cycle and better rear wheel. See how this is going? I've added a hundred bucks to an 80 dollar bike. I know the wheel looks heavy duty but that hub is pretty cheap. Just be aware of it. And the 415 china chain is junk also. Get those front brakes set up first. I always said I'd rather have a car not run than one that wouldn't stop. Niagara cycle or bikepartsusa are good bike parts places. Scrap metal yards sometimes around here at least pile up old bikes in one spot. Yard sales and estate sales can be gold mines. I picked up my schwinn for 20 bucks.
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
5
0
Calera, Alabama
As far as the front mount, to install the engine properly, I feel you need to make one. Here is a front mount I made today for a member that is mounting a HT on a cruiser. The muffler clamp is not installed as when I took the picture I hadn't gone to town and bought it yet. Made today, mailed today.