Re: electricuted by a china girl
Have you ever ben electrocuted by a china girl?
Carburator and other Questions
- Thread starter KoolBreeze420
- Start date
Not surprising, really.. there are several manufacturers for the kits, and from time to time they may 'update' things by throwing in an O ring or somesuch. Besides, the motor kits I have are a couple of years old, so changes may have occured since then.
Re: electricuted by a china girl
I had a bike out for a test ride, and it wouldn't shut down (minor air leak, but the kill switch only offended it - motor revved when I leaned on it). It didn't want to choke out either, so I yanked the plug boot and held it until it stopped. Tingly. But electricity and I get along well. Others may not find it merely 'tingly'.
Unless you were well grounded to the bike frame or the engine you wouldn't get a 'full jolt'. Maybe a "tingle" but I doubt you'd hold on long if you were touching the metal contact in the plug boot and the engine case with the other hand. That's several thousand volts. Are you that friendly with electricity? 
Tom
Tom
I actually knew a guy long ago who could hold the exposed plug wire of a RUNNING V-8.
Dude was seriously nuts. He could also open a beer bottle by removing his glass eye and using his eye socket as an opener. Are you surprised to learn he was a hardcore biker?
I had SO much fun with that dude!
Dude was seriously nuts. He could also open a beer bottle by removing his glass eye and using his eye socket as an opener. Are you surprised to learn he was a hardcore biker?
I had SO much fun with that dude!
Re: electricuted by a china girl
What I wrote in that comment was to someone adviseing me to test the magneto by spinning the back wheel w/the spark plug out and grabbing the wire (blue or white) so that I could feel the lil shock---and this would then tell me if it is working or not.
Update:
Well the new parts finally arrived I replaced both the CDI and Magneto I tested spark and I Have a much better spark then I did originally. I haven't been able to ride it's been far to cold, but I ran it for a few minutes when my wife went out, don't want to kill myself from carbon monoxide either but it is running really smooth right now.
I extracted another link out of the chain, because no matter what I did at it's loosest point the chain would actually touch itself when running and would fall off and it was really hard to start. Amazing what 1 link can do, I almost could not get the chain back together. I had to move the tire up a little, to get enough slack to put the master link in. I have to use the chain tensioner more as a guide then a tensioner but it has very little slack with the tensioner. I think no I hope it will stretch a little even if it only stretches a half of a half link that would be fine. I don't think it's to tight, regardless it runs perfect the way it is right now. I had to move the tensioner all the way up near the pedal, before I had to move it all the way back and it gave me nothing but trouble. I was afraid to take that link out but I finally did it and I am glad I did the chain is no longer able to touch itself.
It is supposed to get to above 0 next Saturday so that is when the next test ride will occur.
I forgot to mention that I thought I broke my chain I had installed the 1st master link in the wrong direction and the chain came apart and wrapped around the sprocket must make sure that damn link is installed the correct way lol
Well the new parts finally arrived I replaced both the CDI and Magneto I tested spark and I Have a much better spark then I did originally. I haven't been able to ride it's been far to cold, but I ran it for a few minutes when my wife went out, don't want to kill myself from carbon monoxide either but it is running really smooth right now.
I extracted another link out of the chain, because no matter what I did at it's loosest point the chain would actually touch itself when running and would fall off and it was really hard to start. Amazing what 1 link can do, I almost could not get the chain back together. I had to move the tire up a little, to get enough slack to put the master link in. I have to use the chain tensioner more as a guide then a tensioner but it has very little slack with the tensioner. I think no I hope it will stretch a little even if it only stretches a half of a half link that would be fine. I don't think it's to tight, regardless it runs perfect the way it is right now. I had to move the tensioner all the way up near the pedal, before I had to move it all the way back and it gave me nothing but trouble. I was afraid to take that link out but I finally did it and I am glad I did the chain is no longer able to touch itself.
It is supposed to get to above 0 next Saturday so that is when the next test ride will occur.
I forgot to mention that I thought I broke my chain I had installed the 1st master link in the wrong direction and the chain came apart and wrapped around the sprocket must make sure that damn link is installed the correct way lol
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Starting to lose hope for any wet riding even after siliconeing everything in water still made its way through killing another magneto. I have order 3 of the damn things so I can take one with me everywhere I go in case I hit wet conditions. I am perplexed becasue I hear people ride these bikes anytime and don't have these problems I think that the angle of my tire and the magneto entrance are in a perfect angle for water to blast inside. I have a new gasket and new magneto to put in but I have run out of ideas on how to prevent further failures aside from not riding during or after rain or snow.I am going to grab a fender kit but I don't think it will help with the magneto. If anyone else has any suggestions that would be great.
Are you sure that water is causing your problems? Something doesn't sound right to me. If you've sealed the magneto cover and wire exit area properly there should be no way enough moisture is getting in there to compromise the magneto.
I'd start looking at other things.
Is your wiring correct? Are you using the white wire for anything? How is the kill switch wired. Is the magneto coil failing or the CDI?
Are you using the kit supplied spark plug boot?
By any chance is this one of those engines with the integral magneto and CDI?
Tom
Yes I am pretty sure it was water when I opened the magneto cover on this last change there was rust and some strange small debris. I just don't understand how it got in there. I was thinking of dipping it in hot wax to protect the wire side from water or was thinking of wrapping the coil side with reflective duck tape it would repel water or maybe both tape then hot wax. Some fuel actually got in this last time. I guess when I went into the store, I forgot to shut off the fuel and it was dripping out perhaps the fuel opened the silicone allowing water to get in. It's also possible that the wires touched at some point. I noticed a spot on one of the wires on the plastic cover that had a brown spot that looks like it could have been caused by a spark, which I have made sure this time can't happen. Why are these magnetos so sensitive to a little water? Also everytime we changed the Magneto we also changed the CDI so this is the 3rd brand new CDI and Magneto replacement as well as a new spark plug each time. I as well have been thinking is something else causing this, but I have no idea what it could be and the kill switch OHM's test properly. This is the exact kit I have but with the nt speed c arb the one that has it's own fuel shutoff http://www.motorizedbicycle.ca/grubee-skyhawk-gt5a-66cc-angle-fire-slant-head-bike-motor-kit.html
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I'd start looking at the crankshaft seal behind the magneto magnet (rotor). If you're seeing fuel/oil/debris inside the magneto cover that's where it is coming from. If the mag coil gets oil/fuel soaked it can fail.
You mentioned "reflective duct tape". If you're talking about the aluminum foil type, no, do not wrap the coil with that. It is an electrical conductor and you could short the coil windings.
Water isn't your problem. You didn't answer my questions regarding how the engine is wired and if you're using the white wire for anything. The kit supplied spark plug boot can cause premature CDI failure if it doesn't make good electrical contact with the spark plug.
Tom
You mentioned "reflective duct tape". If you're talking about the aluminum foil type, no, do not wrap the coil with that. It is an electrical conductor and you could short the coil windings.
Water isn't your problem. You didn't answer my questions regarding how the engine is wired and if you're using the white wire for anything. The kit supplied spark plug boot can cause premature CDI failure if it doesn't make good electrical contact with the spark plug.
Tom
I guess I wasn't clear enough if I leave the fuel valve on and it's not running fuel pours out like when the float is is full, however I inspected the float and it's fine yet if I open the fuel valve before starting the engine gas comes out. As well my wife informed that she knocked the bike over and gas comes out of the tank via the gas cap.When it was sat up right it dripped down any number of these incidences could be responsible for the small amount of gas. Some of the small debris was salt and small rocks and something like rubber I suspect silicone had rubbed of and got mashed around. I ran the bike for a little whiles with the mag cover off and there was no evidence of any other problem. I am certain that I am not getting a good enough seal. Not foil tape I found this ducktape that has a reflective back more like electrical tape but much better adhesive it looks like it could repel water. I have already tested it and it runs fine with this tape on. The other thing I was considering was coating it in hot wax but was concerned it may damage the part since it starts as liquid but If I cover with something then wax over it.
The white wire is not in use at this time. I was thinking that maybe I could put a 6 or 9 volt battery on and use the white wire to charge the battery, so I can run lights etc. but so far it looks like no one has ever tried they say to not use it kinda baffles me. Why is it there if you shouldn't use it for lights?
The bigger question though is why does a little water kill a magneto this one could have been case by the gas but I think the gas got in there after the mag had already died but remember my 1st magneto got a little water and it died right away this is my 3rd replacement and this ****ing bike doesn't even have an hour run-time. I need to find a better made magneto and not one from china I wish I could find an American or Canadian made magneto for this bike.
Not sure why they fitted the white wire to the engines but I can say from trial and error if you use it ,it seriously depletes the electrical ignition output and as such the running of the motor , besides that you can pick up Cree lights from eBay that run anywhere from 1200 to 6000 lumens , they are rechargeable and cost @ $25-$50 and from experience have a running time of at least 8-14 hours , plenty of time to play in the dark
Regards Henshooter
Regards Henshooter
If the carburetor leaks fuel when you open the petcock you have an float valve problem. Either the float is full of fuel or the needle valve is being held open by debris or it is seriously out of adjustment.
As far as what you describe finding in the magneto cover, black rubbery stuff, it is almost certainly from the rubber portion of the crankshaft seal. The seals are notorious for being installed improperly at the factory. If they are not driven into the case right they can be rubbed by the rotating magneto rotor and destroy their sealing ability.
When that happens you get black rubbery debris and inconsistant idle, loss of power and other symptoms associated with a bad crank seal or vacuum leak into the crankcase.
Judging from what you say about how many miles you have accurued on this engine I would guess that you do not yet have a grasp of what is normal and what is wrong with how it runs, or should run.
Start at the carburetor. Remove the float bowl, turn the fuel petcock on and gently lift the brass tang that the float rides against. If the fuel flow doesn't stop the problem is the float valve. Clean it, install an inline fuel filter and reassemble the carb then try again. Some petcocks will allow fuel to flow in the off position but if the float valve is functioning properly fuel should not leak from the carburetor.
You wife knocking the bike over will in most cases cause fuel to leak from the fuel tank. Tell her to be more careful
Tom
As far as what you describe finding in the magneto cover, black rubbery stuff, it is almost certainly from the rubber portion of the crankshaft seal. The seals are notorious for being installed improperly at the factory. If they are not driven into the case right they can be rubbed by the rotating magneto rotor and destroy their sealing ability.
When that happens you get black rubbery debris and inconsistant idle, loss of power and other symptoms associated with a bad crank seal or vacuum leak into the crankcase.
Judging from what you say about how many miles you have accurued on this engine I would guess that you do not yet have a grasp of what is normal and what is wrong with how it runs, or should run.
Start at the carburetor. Remove the float bowl, turn the fuel petcock on and gently lift the brass tang that the float rides against. If the fuel flow doesn't stop the problem is the float valve. Clean it, install an inline fuel filter and reassemble the carb then try again. Some petcocks will allow fuel to flow in the off position but if the float valve is functioning properly fuel should not leak from the carburetor.
You wife knocking the bike over will in most cases cause fuel to leak from the fuel tank. Tell her to be more careful
Tom
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Plenty of folks have tried to use the white wire for powering a light or charging a small battery.
Do a search on this site for "white wire" for more info.
In a nutshell:
It is rated to produce 6 volts, 3 watts. You are lucky if you can actually get that much power out of it.
It can power a dismally dim light.
If you try to power a light bright enough to do you any good, it taps too much power from the mag and kills the signal going to the CDI box.
If you build a rectifier/ regulator it can charge a battery, a watch battery that is. Trying to charge a decent sized battery for powering a light only results in only extending the run time of the battery by a few minutes. You are better off spending the $$ you would use to make a regulator/ rectifier for a bigger battery instead.
Do a search on this site for "white wire" for more info.
In a nutshell:
It is rated to produce 6 volts, 3 watts. You are lucky if you can actually get that much power out of it.
It can power a dismally dim light.
If you try to power a light bright enough to do you any good, it taps too much power from the mag and kills the signal going to the CDI box.
If you build a rectifier/ regulator it can charge a battery, a watch battery that is. Trying to charge a decent sized battery for powering a light only results in only extending the run time of the battery by a few minutes. You are better off spending the $$ you would use to make a regulator/ rectifier for a bigger battery instead.
I was thinking more along the lines of having the magneto keep a battery charged for a decent audible alarm.
I suspect the debris was silicone because I used it on the inside to cover the hole and it was blue it absorbed some oil. I am certain water is causing the magneto to fail or there is an ark happening have a look at the ground wires they all look the same.If the carburetor leaks fuel when you open the petcock you have an float valve problem. Either the float is full of fuel or the needle valve is being held open by debris or it is seriously out of adjustment.
As far as what you describe finding in the magneto cover, black rubbery stuff, it is almost certainly from the rubber portion of the crankshaft seal. The seals are notorious for being installed improperly at the factory. If they are not driven into the case right they can be rubbed by the rotating magneto rotor and destroy their sealing ability.
When that happens you get black rubbery debris and inconsistant idle, loss of power and other symptoms associated with a bad crank seal or vacuum leak into the crankcase.
Judging from what you say about how many miles you have accurued on this engine I would guess that you do not yet have a grasp of what is normal and what is wrong with how it runs, or should run.
Start at the carburetor. Remove the float bowl, turn the fuel petcock on and gently lift the brass tang that the float rides against. If the fuel flow doesn't stop the problem is the float valve. Clean it, install an inline fuel filter and reassemble the carb then try again. Some petcocks will allow fuel to flow in the off position but if the float valve is functioning properly fuel should not leak from the carburetor.
You wife knocking the bike over will in most cases cause fuel to leak from the fuel tank. Tell her to be more careful
Tom
of this
[/URLSo far I have run her for about an hour with the mag cover off and there is no problems. I have none of the other symptoms your describing.
I was thinking more along the lines of an audible alarm system lights were just the 1st thing that popped into my mind when I was writing. The main questions are. Why does a little water kill the magneto? Can I get a better made Magneto like an American or Canadian made Magneto? And can the white wire charge a battery that would have very little drain?
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Roads were dry took her for a ride found small debris blocking the carburetor from properly closing no more fuel leak. No signs of debris or moisture in the magneto. I just got 2 backup magnetos from chine one is the usual kind reads 325 ohms as usual however the 2nd one I have looks much better made and is giving me a reading of 518 ohms. Does the difference in ohms mean anything significant?
In the KTM50 world more resistance is better, means more winds in the coils or they haven't melted together yet, so it should make more spark energy with the higher resistance one I'm assuming.
