Pre-Motorizing Tools/Equipment

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CaliRebel

New Member
Apr 4, 2011
74
2
0
Santa Barbara, CA
I'm going bike shopping tomorrow, but I've already got my motor(SuperRat) and a few tools plus some equipment on the way. I tried to stay very basic to start with, but I still may have gotten more than necessary.

Tools:
-Pedro's ICM (Bike tool)
-10mm combination wrench
-14mm combination wrench
-Screw drivers

Equipment:
-Bike pump
-Speedometer

I also ordered an Engine Hardware Kit and a couple spark plugs from SBP preemptively as well, but that was just because for the money it wasn't worth waiting or searching through a hardware/auto parts store. Loctite and 2-Stroke oil are on my shopping list.

I've got an electric pump for my car, but I'm more than a little worried about blowing out the tire with it, and the hand pump might be worth bringing with me on longer rides. The speedometer is basically so I know how well the bike is performing once it's on the road. The bike tool just seemed clever.

Any comments? I'm sure there are a couple more things I should keep around.

I want to find something to seal my CNS Carb at the manifold because I've read a lot about air leaks being a problem. Any recommendations? I was actually thinking about hot glue, but it seemed a little simplistic. I don't want to use something like an epoxy that I'll never get out. Also, what kind of grease should I get for the clutch and sprockets?

I'll post another thread asking for advice on bikes tomorrow once I've looked at some.
 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
And a twelve pack wouldn't hurt :)

I'll suggest not disassembling the engine to replace the fasteners until your warranty is up. Most vendors will tell you their warranty is void if you take the engine apart. This goes for the cylinder studs, not so much the intake and exhaust mounting fasteners.

As for tools; you can never have too much. I agree with Nougat in that instead of just a couple of wrenches you buy a set. And don't go for the cheapest tools you can find. Tools are an investment. The better they are the better and longer they'll perform for you.

Specialize bicycle tools are good to have, such as cone wrenches for the wheel hubs, crank wrenches and puncture proof inner tubes are always a good idea. Do some reading here about the advantages of 'Slime' to prevent flats.
Good luck. Keep us informed on your build.
Tom
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Down the line there are a few other tools which come in very handy, especially in putting a build together. One is a vice of some sort that you can attach to a work bench or even a table. I don't have a lot of tools or a decent work shop, so often I work on an old picnic table and use C clamps to hold the vice in place. A rotary tool (like a dremel) is so handy for so many things. You can get all sorts of little bits for it from cut off wheels to grinding tips. If you find the itch to make things for your bike, the rotary tool goes along way in scratching the itch. Doesn't have to be a dremel by any means. I have an inexpensive one from harbor freight which has been durable and versatile. Vice grips are handy. Some time or other, especially if you find one at a yard sale... get yourself a stationary grinding wheel which can be switched over to a wire wheel for cleaning rusty parts. Also some protective eye wear if you use either the grinder or the rotary tool. Another handy tool if you find one used is a side grinder which is so useful for stripping a bike down to bare metal or grinding steel or even cutting it... uses different attachment wheels for different purposes. Even the one from Harbor Freight would be adequate for occasional use. That's about it. Without either the rotary tool or the side grinder, you might want a hacksaw. Even with those other tools you may want a hacksaw. Oh, and a metal file comes in handy. Some things are just as good used, like sockets or a wrench... screwdriver (good quality used ones are better than new cheap ones), but something like a file should be new since they wear out and get dull.
Keep in mind that someone else would likely give you a different list of preferred tools. Once you get into this or some other form of crafting/mechaniching you come to appreciate tools and the smart people who thought things up in the first place... unsung heros we know nothing about, but who we owe a big debt of gratitude to. Think of life without pliers or the adjustable wrench. Did you know that the circular saw blade was invented by a woman? I always tell young girls that when I can so they stop thinking that tools are just boy things. Supposedly that is what separates man from the rest of the animal kingdom, we are makers of tools. (Yeah, I know there are exceptions, but no monkey made tools by snap on). Tools rule!
SB
 

CaliRebel

New Member
Apr 4, 2011
74
2
0
Santa Barbara, CA
I'm trying to stay minimalist, but I was conflicted about getting a metric wrench set because I didn't think I would find metric bolts many other places. It was marginally more expensive though... I guess I'll exchange those 2.

The bike tool has a chain breaker. Crescent wrench, electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, and zip ties are now on the shopping list. I've got wire cutters and pliers somewhere. I'll wait to get a socket set. I think I'll pick up a spark plug wrench. 3/8 is the standard? I mostly have been finding 5/8 wrenches.
 
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CaliRebel

New Member
Apr 4, 2011
74
2
0
Santa Barbara, CA
So I went shopping today and got most of what I was missing.

Wrench set, 2-stroke oil, twist ties, electrical tape, shrink tubing, loctite, chain lubricant, and bearing grease are all off the list.

Channellocks and spark plug wrench on the way.
 
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DaveC

Member
Jul 14, 2010
969
1
18
Boise, ID
I'm going to add a Metric tap set from Harbour Freight. $12 and with the after market bolts and studs you got you need it. The Chinese often do not tap the holes to the bottom. This leads to stripping the threads right out of the block. Three things you can do about that is; 1) drill and tap to a bigger size, not always an option. 2) JB Weld the stud in, 3) Helicoil the hole. That takes drilling out to a specific size and you usually need one of those 119 piece drill assortments to do that which is why Helicoiling is best left to a machine shop or Motorcycle repair shop.

Use some of that suspension grease you got on the tap. The grease will hold the chips from tapping and not let them fall into places you don't want them. When you tap the head stud holes cover the piston with a baggie and tape off the opening. When I was tapping the head studs holes I ran out of clearance over the piston for the tap handle and had to switch to a small Cresent wrench. This is acceptable when there's problems of clearance, just get the tap started very straight down the hole. Turn the tap in 1/2 turn then back 1/4th of a turn to clear the chips. Run the tap as far in as it will go. Don't force it, you can tell when far enough is far enough. Tap all the holes with threads for studs like the intake, exhaust, and head studs.
 
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CaliRebel

New Member
Apr 4, 2011
74
2
0
Santa Barbara, CA
I ended up ordering a cone wrench, chain whip, and lock ring tool so I could take the cassette off and install the 12 gauge spokes myself. Truing the wheel may be more time intensive than I'm really interested in, but it should be a learning experience.
 

Frickard

New Member
Feb 27, 2011
91
0
0
La Mirada, CA
I'm going to add a Metric tap set from Harbour Freight. $12 and with the after market bolts and studs you got you need it. The Chinese often do not tap the holes to the bottom. This leads to stripping the threads right out of the block. Three things you can do about that is; 1) drill and tap to a bigger size, not always an option. 2) JB Weld the stud in, 3) Helicoil the hole. That takes drilling out to a specific size and you usually need one of those 119 piece drill assortments to do that which is why Helicoiling is best left to a machine shop or Motorcycle repair shop.

Use some of that suspension grease you got on the tap. The grease will hold the chips from tapping and not let them fall into places you don't want them. When you tap the head stud holes cover the piston with a baggie and tape off the opening. When I was tapping the head studs holes I ran out of clearance over the piston for the tap handle and had to switch to a small Cresent wrench. This is acceptable when there's problems of clearance, just get the tap started very straight down the hole. Turn the tap in 1/2 turn then back 1/4th of a turn to clear the chips. Run the tap as far in as it will go. Don't force it, you can tell when far enough is far enough. Tap all the holes with threads for studs like the intake, exhaust, and head studs.
Not to hijack the thread, but how easy is this? And how easy is it to screw this up? For 12 bucks, seems like a cheap fix, but I have no experience with tapping holes. Is it pretty straight forward?