Ok so, the problem is that I have to hold the kill switch for the bike to run, now what i think the problem is, is that the magnetic field has reversed and that is what is causing this, has anybody else had this problem, or knows how to fix it that would be great thanks.
Big problem - kill switch
- Thread starter Nova Prospekt
- Start date
hahahaha maniac.... what was that hilarious quote you posted the other about feeding premix to the unhealthy and malfunctioning? lol.....
on a serious note does the bike run w/ the kill switch disconnected? is the wiring done correctly?
it's a common problem.
i can't see your picture, but you can disconnect the switch and tape off the wires so they don't ground out and run the bike without it just fine.
to shut the bike off you can either choke it out while riding by closing the choke on the carb, or come to a stop and let the clutch out with the brake on so it stalls.
neither of those will hurt your motor, you just won't have a "panic button" to shut your motor down while riding.
i can't see your picture, but you can disconnect the switch and tape off the wires so they don't ground out and run the bike without it just fine.
to shut the bike off you can either choke it out while riding by closing the choke on the carb, or come to a stop and let the clutch out with the brake on so it stalls.
neither of those will hurt your motor, you just won't have a "panic button" to shut your motor down while riding.
I seem to recall a similar problem a while back. It turned out that there was a bad solder joint on the magneto coil. When the button was pressed (switch contacts closed) it was providing a path that was open due to the bad connection (solder joint).
The OP needs to provide us with how he has the kill switch wired before offering advice, me thinks.
Tom
The OP needs to provide us with how he has the kill switch wired before offering advice, me thinks.
Tom
yep, if the motor is wired blue to blue, black to black (or sometimes blue to black), then the kill switch only has two places to go. It works by shorting out the CDI (which is... simple, but stupid), however if there's an issue with the circuit, such as 2door described, then it can complete the circuit instead. The only time a kill switch will be bad is if the switch itself is non-functional, and the internal connection is either stuck on, or off. having to hold the switch is indicative that the switch is OK. Now you're down to troubleshooting, if it's the CDI wiring that's junk (because it's filled with epoxy, this means you will need a new one), or the magneto that's junk (check solder joints, maybe see if the white wire is shorting, etc.), or both. However given that the bike runs, the CDI is getting power, so now you check the magneto. It's obviously producing power, so thats OK. Check the coil. Given that it's GIVING power to the CDI, both solder joints are giving the power. So... check your wiring 
