Yeah I wasn' going into the motor to find out. I adjusted the valves with the engine running just to the point where there was no tap noise. I will post gaps tonight after engine is cold. Nice with no tap noise, but not enough power. I also do have the new carb on it, so will swap with old carb jet later and try. May run better with the smaller jet size. I think if one were planning to upgrade anyway the carb to a bigger bore size, higher lift cam, billet flywheel and better cdi and slightly longer rod for a little more hp, then this kit will be ok. If it was my build, I would do those things for the performance difference. For out of the box performance compared to older engine, I can only sum it up as sad. Oh and the harmonic vibration with put back to stock and valves set tight is awfull. Put old motor on it and was fine.
HS 142f bucks and cuts out when cruising
- Thread starter worksuxxx
- Start date
Well as I stated yesterday I adjusted the valves with engine running just to the point of no tap noise. I just toook measurements this morning with a cold engine. LOL.. can't fit my smallest feeler guage in. So, there is no gap. If I loosen the slightest bit it taps. Other engines didn't tap at all.
Anyhow, got an email back from Don Grubee. He acknowledged 2013 EPA changes were the no adjustment carb and who knows what else. I am thinking now if it is strict EPA regulations, honda is going to be the same. I guess our best solution is to disassemble this motor and compare to an older one and dtermine what would have to be changed out. Instead of replcing parts to make it the same as the old version, spend a little more for better performance compared to the old version.
Or you could just use it out of the box.. but mind you, I only hit 6900 rpm downhill. I think on a flat with tailwind best I got was 6700 rpm. Out of the box these feel less powerful. Going thru my papers for adjustments, with the flywheel and cdi changed, it ran best with valves set to .014/.016. It went to 8200 no problem and ran like a champ. Just had to deal with loud valve tap. In fact it held that higher rpm with no sweat, almost like the engine loved it up their in that range. I think today I will set the valves to those specs with engine back at stock to see if it runs good there.
Anyhow, got an email back from Don Grubee. He acknowledged 2013 EPA changes were the no adjustment carb and who knows what else. I am thinking now if it is strict EPA regulations, honda is going to be the same. I guess our best solution is to disassemble this motor and compare to an older one and dtermine what would have to be changed out. Instead of replcing parts to make it the same as the old version, spend a little more for better performance compared to the old version.
Or you could just use it out of the box.. but mind you, I only hit 6900 rpm downhill. I think on a flat with tailwind best I got was 6700 rpm. Out of the box these feel less powerful. Going thru my papers for adjustments, with the flywheel and cdi changed, it ran best with valves set to .014/.016. It went to 8200 no problem and ran like a champ. Just had to deal with loud valve tap. In fact it held that higher rpm with no sweat, almost like the engine loved it up their in that range. I think today I will set the valves to those specs with engine back at stock to see if it runs good there.
Valves adjusted to .014/.016 with new carb only it runs best. Cant get to 6900 rpm unless downhill, but engine accelerates up an incline that tighter valve gaps only hold speed up. Like i said before, this engine breathes well at those settings. Upon inspection of the valve tap noise, i notice alot of side to side movement with the rocker arms on the rod. I am going to try to put some washers on the rod holding the rocker arms in place. Maybe eliminating the side to side slap of the rockers might quiet them down. I can move the rocker arm side to side and duplicate the metalic tap noise. Will post results soon.
Don't make them too tight. You want to leave room for heat expansion and lubrication.
Shoot for 0.009" to 0.012" end play
Shoot for 0.009" to 0.012" end play
I will try those settings in the morning. Thanks fir the tip. By the way have you ever tried any of the multispeed hubs? I have been thinking about doing a setup with one. I would assume with a hub with internal gears you could run a bigger chain. I would not feel safe running the small chain to a cheesy derailer at any speed. Thinking about doing the power upgrades and shift kit. Bike I am looking at has front and rear disk brakes and suspension fork. Only downfall its aluminum. But I just lve the bike. Its a fito modena gt 7 speed. It looks sick. I have been iching for a week to order the bike so I can see it in person. That way I can see exactly how I want to build on it. I am thinking the ezm qmatic for that one with jackshaft kit. Not sure about a tank though, would like one of those cylinder tanks on rear.
[QUOTE="worksuxx]
Anyhow, got an email back from Don Grubee. He acknowledged 2013 EPA changes were the no adjustment carb and who knows what else.
I am thinking now if it is strict EPA regulations, honda is going to be the same[/QUOTE]
The 50 CC GXH Honda has always met the much stricter CARB regulations as well as EPA
Anyhow, got an email back from Don Grubee. He acknowledged 2013 EPA changes were the no adjustment carb and who knows what else.
I am thinking now if it is strict EPA regulations, honda is going to be the same[/QUOTE]
The 50 CC GXH Honda has always met the much stricter CARB regulations as well as EPA
I have not tried the internal geared hubs yet. From what I have learned on this site, the Sturmy Archer 3 speed is up to the task that a 50cc will put through it, but no more torque than that. The 5 speed hubs are too fragile. Also, never shift up or down under power. I want to learn more about this like any increased maintenance that the 3 speed SA hub will need for reliability and longevity's sake.
I plan on doing a SBP shifter kit with standard derailleur on my next build. Folks who run them really like them. You do need to run a stronger chain. The one recommended escapes me right now, I'll have to look it up when the time comes. I also want to convert the derailleur sprocket hubs into to some sort of ball bearing set up instead of just spinning over a bolt in the derailleur frame.
I plan on doing a SBP shifter kit with standard derailleur on my next build. Folks who run them really like them. You do need to run a stronger chain. The one recommended escapes me right now, I'll have to look it up when the time comes. I also want to convert the derailleur sprocket hubs into to some sort of ball bearing set up instead of just spinning over a bolt in the derailleur frame.
I think you might be refering to the KMX chain. I believe I read that somewhere.
Anyhow, I set the valves to .009/.012. Not too bad, but did notice not as much power. I am gonna try the other bike at those settings as well. That bike has the carb with possibly smaller jet. I ordered a new carb for this bike cuz the other one was dumping fuel out of overflow. So if the jet is bigger with the way the newer engines are set up, it may explain why I have to open up the valves more. I may just end up swapping the main jet out to see if it will run better. My only concern now with these motors is that damn valve tap noise. If you could only hear it lol, it is so annoying.
Anyhow, I set the valves to .009/.012. Not too bad, but did notice not as much power. I am gonna try the other bike at those settings as well. That bike has the carb with possibly smaller jet. I ordered a new carb for this bike cuz the other one was dumping fuel out of overflow. So if the jet is bigger with the way the newer engines are set up, it may explain why I have to open up the valves more. I may just end up swapping the main jet out to see if it will run better. My only concern now with these motors is that damn valve tap noise. If you could only hear it lol, it is so annoying.
Sturmey Archer 3 speeds are tried and true but Motomagz and The Aleman are doing well with the 5 speed so far.
Racer #98 the inimitable Nashmoto raced a Honda 50 cc GXH driving through his shifter set up to a Nuvinci hub for many races without blowing it up.
GearNut you really don't know all you are missing by never having been to a race. San Diego ain't that far and Scotto manages to make it.
Get a used 50 CC GXH Honda and slap one of the new AGK's $155 Jack shaft on it.
If all the new Huasheng motors from Gasbike are as messed up as you are finding who would want to buy one?
Time to find out what Bicycle-Engines is selling these days.
Hey, thanks a lot for all the detailed posts you have made about your motors!
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This is pretty disappointing. I have been planning out my first build using the HS 142F, but now I am not sure.
I talked with Bicycle-Engines.net yesterday for a good 45min. It seems gasbike.net orders from a different manufacturer. Bicyce-Engines still have plenty of the good motors left, and have not heard of any changes coming soon, although she did state she would do some digging into it. I will speak with her again on Monday. I will probably place an order then for a motor or two. I doubt I will be going for the kit, as I don't care much for the 4g trans on the 5/8 shaft. Clutch bell rattles too much and I really hate the clutch, jerks badly until you get some speed. I am eyeballing the new AGK jackshaft. More affordable than the Qmatic, half price at least. Is the Qmatic worth twice the amount?
You are awesome! Thank you. This is the kit I was looking at picking up. http://www.bicycle-engines.com/49cc-4G-T-Belt-Drive-Complete-Gas-Powered-Engine-Kit.html
I did notice however that in the description it says:
Max Power(kw/r/min) 1.5 KW / 2 HP / 6800
(min) 6800, any idea what that figure is? It seems pretty close to the 6900 RPM you were mentioning.
Also, thanks for sharing everything you have, it's all been very informative.
I am waiting on an Ebay 49cc bike kit. It looks like I bought into this Hg motor. My intention is to upgrade some items. I did send out for a 54 teeth sprocket. After reading and looking at the pictures, my take on this cheap & not quality issue is. It is a china girl. It is not even built to do run close to 6000 rpm, and replace the nuts & bolts too.
Are you buying a 2 stroke OR a 4 stroke 49cc motor?
What is a Hg motor?
Do you mean a HS = Hausheng 49cc 4 stroke?
How about a link to where you bought it on eBay.
I do not know what a bought for $220. My point is; I have bike frame ready 49cc kit on the way. It could be a HS knockoff. I intend to use it as a daily. It is 4 stroke, yes.
