Huasheng Super Duty Clutch from Staton Inc

Umm...that's what the description says? Staton has been doing it long enough they would know. Call em up.

I really wish I could say more. I have the straight shaft version myself. I live 2 hours away from the staton office and have been inside and talked with Dave Staton about my 4 stroke. At the time I didn't really know much about these motors and kits and the fact of the MB world at large.

It's a good clutch upgrade for the tapered shaft HS!

Tad Bit Tipsy said:

Has anybody run this clutch?
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Super_Duty_Clutch_Rotor_3_000_Shandong_Huasheng_Zhongtian-1676-10.html
Sure would help having a higher takeoff rpm. Just don't know if it will fit in a dual chain box's clutch bell. Should, but skeptical.

Click to expand...

having a higher rpm when it engages is bad.. this means that it engages at 3000 rpm and probably 4500 rpm to really grip.. thats high..

i made my own springs and they engage at 2000 rpm i idle at 1500-1800

so just alittle throttle and it engages and by the time im at cruise speed which is 20 mph at 3000 rpm its fully gripping the sides..

the stock husang clutch and the heavy duty one you showed us is super high rpm they will burn out.. when i ran my stock springs it would lock up at 3000 and then over heat and stop working aka less efficient..

so you want a clutch that locks up low sticks hard.. like a racing clutch on a gocart or a regular gokart clutch.. these husang ones are not meant for bikes they are meant to drive generators that have no load like us and small farm equiptment.. some chineese guy or some dude decided hey i can make money selling a kit but not think the engineering though..

what is really needed for these kits is this= a 5 hp old school motor.. not the whimmpy ones predators etc.. get one thats a flathead straight up from the 80s they last forever.. then a gokart clutch and a jackshaft back to the hd wheel hub you can get on ebay.. then you will have power torq etc.. these little engines do just fine for crusing around but not for speed or performance.. those performance cams and exhausts are all a lie they give you maybe with them all .5 hp on these things thats not enough to notice.. these engines put out tops 1.9 hp so at 3000 rpm you do the math...

they are sunday drivers for flat to mild terrain ... yes that clutch looks great its got more surface area too.. but toss the springs and find some that engage sooner

Tad Bit Tipsy said:

locutus_1, thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know.

Click to expand...

no problem.... the reason i know about the stock clutches and spring tension was .. i had stock springs on my husang along with it the shoes were rusted to the shafts.. and the fact that the tapered shaft slipped over time..

so what i did was remove the tapeerd shaft heat and a small hammer... removed the studs that the shoes attach to which are also the bolts... lubed them with super thin film of lube to much and it flings off and then you slip worse..

after that i lubed where i saw the shoes go in and out of the frame then used red lock tight on the tapered shaft.. re assembled.. let it sit 24 hours because the lock tight needs time to dry.. even though pressure dries it..

then found some springs from my local hardware went though 5 tries to get the rpm right.. plus bending them to look like stock it was an ordeal.. oh wear saftey glasses they will take an eye out if they shoot off while installing bending them to fit is a pain in the arse dont use head use man power.. and hook them so they dont slip off the shoes after that check the rpm engagement..

you no longer will slip from the shaft to the shoes.. since then ive had no problems.. before that after 2 blocks i burnt the clutch out even with a 60tooth on the back hardly engageing then the performance goes by by and you have to wait till they cool off..

oh and LOCK TIGHT EVERY BOLT ON YOUR BIKE including make new brackets for fenders..

i might make a tutorial on everything ive done because ive had so much happen to me that ive worked out the grimlins.. sorry i ramble on alot ive got alot to say lol

locutus_1 said:

having a higher rpm when it engages is bad.. this means that it engages at 3000 rpm and probably 4500 rpm to really grip.. thats high..

Click to expand...

It is not bad whatsoever. The high-revving 4-strokes can lug with the clutch at too low of a stall. They make maximum torque ~4500RPM. With a higher stall speed, standstill take-offs can shock the drivetrain a little more, which is why it's best to at least crank off the line. It will accelerate quicker with a stall over 2500.

Staton-Inc sells a clutch like that for a reason, and that reason is that it is a high-performance clutch. Period.

The_Aleman said:

It is not bad whatsoever. The high-revving 4-strokes can lug with the clutch at too low of a stall. They make maximum torque ~4500RPM. With a higher stall speed, standstill take-offs can shock the drivetrain a little more, which is why it's best to at least crank off the line. It will accelerate quicker with a stall over 2500.

Staton-Inc sells a clutch like that for a reason, and that reason is that it is a high-performance clutch. Period.

Click to expand...

for it to shock the drive train which there is none just a belt and a couple pullies.. it would have to have major torq these have none of that.. there super small engines.... at a lower rpm the clutch engages and you take off you have a high rpm clutch and its always slipping.. ive had mine set up this way for a while now it works much better than stock.. a lighter spring is the way to go..

the spring that comes with the stock motor and the super clutch are for generators or utility purposes .. not for hauling a 200 lbs man around.. they constanly slip.. causeing wear.. with a lower engagement speed they lock up harder.. press more tightly against the drum by the time you reach the 3000 rpm the stock one does.... bu ti dont know nothing im only an ase master certified mechanic with many years of motorized vehicles under my belt

if that is the case, why do clutchs for junior dragsters have a high engagement, and when you start modding a v8 with an auto, you put in a higher stall converter, its to get the engine into its power band before it starts transferring power. since my motor has a straight shaft i cant run this clutch, but i increased the engagement speed of my clutch with new springs and i love it over the stock clutch, and im super hard on my clutchs, 16:1 ratio good for 42 mph, with the higher engagement on the clutch i can controll the clutch slipping with the throttle when starting from a stop and it has less chatter than the stock springs, but what would i know, im just a grease monkey. some like green eyes, some like brown eyes, but im a sucker for customize.

moonerdizzle said:

if that is the case, why do clutchs for junior dragsters have a high engagement, and when you start modding a v8 with an auto, you put in a higher stall converter, its to get the engine into its power band before it starts transferring power. since my motor has a straight shaft i cant run this clutch, but i increased the engagement speed of my clutch with new springs and i love it over the stock clutch, and im super hard on my clutchs, 16:1 ratio good for 42 mph, with the higher engagement on the clutch i can controll the clutch slipping with the throttle when starting from a stop and it has less chatter than the stock springs, but what would i know, im just a grease monkey. some like green eyes, some like brown eyes, but im a sucker for customize.

Click to expand...

because those engines have a higher torq that this little 1.9 hp at 6000 rpm has... you have to rev the stock clutch 3/4 of full throttle all the time to go with these things thats not good you cant feather the clutch.. you let off alittle from almost full throttle then the clutch is disengaged..

like i said these clutches need to see a constant load ie a generator or a water pump.. not see a varying load like our fat asses riding up hills gunning it etc.. a lighter spring presses harder against the bell at cruising idle which is 3000 rpm when the stock one is just engaging... so the stock one is slipping all the stinking time while at 3000 rpm which happens to be 20mph if you run a 55 tooth clutch.. when it slips it creates heat heat is bad on clutches makes them not function well.. a lighter spring locks up at that speed and wont slip unless you overcome it.. you can increase the hold strength by adding weights drilling holes and pouring lead in.. but thats bad if the led falls out while driving aka lock up..


mine locks fully up by the time all you guys are just taking off so when i let off my throttle i can feather it to drop down to 10 mph or 15 if i want to ride with my son.. other wise i have to go all out ...

that is why..

and it saves gas..

again the heavy duty clutch you see is made by some guy who saw a need.. the bell and motor are still not designed for what we do.. if you want a good clutch you get a go kart one those are designed to stick hard and lock up sooner because top end of a kart motor usually is 3600 rpm after that your governor kicks in or you blow a valve ...

simple thing get an old motor from the 80's the old striahgt up and down piston not the hf ones those are ****... then you get a gokart clutch or a cvt


the high power dragsters etc.. use high rpm clutches because they do off the line take offs which require100% of the power so you want your clutch to engage at very close to that and be fully stalled at that hp range.. to lock up and stall at a slower speed would mean they would take off slow...

our little hs motors dont have any hp .8 hp at 3000 rpm maybe 1 hp 1.9 at 6000 rpm which is full throttle and you dont want to do full throttle for more than 3 seconds these motors will blow ..

ive been running my motor right at the factory redline of 8250rpm, 8000 rpm gives me 38mph, gps topped out at 42mph, and i run wide open for most of my commute to work at night. so i dont see how more than 3 seconds at wide open will kill it because ive help mine WOT for miles.

running wot is bad.. go in your car look at the rpm guage do you see a 6k or 8k redline..

thats when the motor blows up after reving that high for a long time.. go on youtube look at videos.. theres a mechanical limitation to engines...

i say 3 seconds because its safe.. less likely to blow up a motor have it seize and lock up your rear tire causeing you to fall off.. unless you have a free wheel setup.. but still its common sense.. you dont run a lawn mower at full idle.. thats why there all set up now so you cant change the speed of them.. before back in the 2000's and 90's you could people would over rev and blow up a motor..

so dont run wide open for more than a block or 2 50% or 75% is all you need.. with my spring setup i run 50% thats 3000 rpm thats half of engine.. like i keep saying these are not meant to be on bikes do you see a generator running at 6 k no its topped out at 3500 rpm thats all thats needed.. do you see dragsters topping out iddleing no its only short bursts.. if you want a dragster and to be able to do this get a motor designed for it say a crotch rocket engine they are designed for that..

and im an ase master mechanic ive seen over reaving and racing of cars what it does to them.. kids get in a honda and think its a race car and b oom blown motor you want a high rever you get something thats made that way.. good luck though because you will have to engineer mounts and test it alot have alot of break downs from bad welds etc..

best way to go is get this bike that i saw on youtube they sell a custom frame to fit a 125 motor cylcle engine in its not cheap will cost you 5 grand but its built to do 60 mph has 5 speed tranny and looks like a moutain bike.. i belive they stopped making the frames though.. and you have to put it together..

again over reaving bad staying in within safe limits good... just enjoy even being able to get up to 30 mph on a bike btw did you know the bearings on your bike are not suppoose to drive at that all the time.. thats why you need heavy duty hub bearings and wheels from ebay.. i have them front to back they are sealed motor cycle bearings not loose pack bearings that can fall out seize etc..

i know all this stuff because its common sense and ive dealt with it for so long and im an ase certified master mechanic.. not to toot my horn lol so listen to my advice.. ive had people on this site criticize me put me down etc.. and all im trying to do is help

Yeah,my wife is ASE certified through the local votech too. Guess who works on the cars? Me,mr high school dropout. Not to toot my own horn or nothing.

locutus_1 said:

for it to shock the drive train which there is none just a belt and a couple pullies.. it would have to have major torq these have none of that.. there super small engines.... at a lower rpm the clutch engages and you take off you have a high rpm clutch and its always slipping.. ive had mine set up this way for a while now it works much better than stock.. a lighter spring is the way to go..

Click to expand...

Higher engagement speeds can shock the drivetrain more yes, that is a characteristic of high engagement speed, regardless of the engine or output level. It's physics, derp.
You have made it apparent that you like low engagement speed. Also, the way you have yours set up isn't necessarily indicative that it applies to other people.
Many people run chains and gear ratios are always a variable to consider. If one has a single tall gear ratio like say 15:1 with 26", then a high speed engagement clutch will of course slip below it's engagement speed, which in that case would be ~15-16MPH @ 3000RPM. Going below that speed, the clutch will slip, so one must accommodate that by pedaling more, unless one wants to lower (numerically increase) the gear ratio. Gear ratios are the most important thing to consider on a motorized bicycle when it comes to it's overall tractability.

Myself I find 2750-3000 to be the perfect engagement speed. My current takeoff gear is 29.44:1, my cruising gear is 17.67:1.
Taking off in my cruising gear is possible, but it will definitely slip at low speeds.

the spring that comes with the stock motor and the super clutch are for generators or utility purposes .. not for hauling a 200 lbs man around.. they constanly slip.. causeing wear.. with a lower engagement speed they lock up harder.. press more tightly against the drum by the time you reach the 3000 rpm the stock one does.... bu ti dont know nothing im only an ase master certified mechanic with many years of motorized vehicles under my belt

Click to expand...

What the engines are "for" is to perform work. On a bicycle a small utility motor works quite well in providing assist to the pedal crank or rear wheel. What begat motorcycles in the first place and what most of us are here for after all, right? Sounds like you're stuck with a high gear ratio and aren't into pedaling much, might be bitter about it. In addition to that, you don't seem to think much about this outside the box that ASE puts you in. ASE has nothing whatsoever to do with MaBs - gas or electric - whether it's in the building of the bike, maintaining the engine, or riding of MaBs. I told you that last time you tried to toot that horn. ASE doesn't make a great mechanic, and a great mechanic doesn't necessarily need ASE, after all.

Pedaling engineers is what makes great MaBs. Staton-Inc has been in the motor-assisted bicycling business for over 25 years - longer than you've been ASE I bet - and they sell that clutch along with a whole lot of other pretty nice if heavy parts that they make themselves. I'd trust them a whole lot more than some ultracrepidarian cager wrench

im an ase certified master mechanic.. not to toot my horn lol so listen to my advice..

Click to expand...

Just a suggestion, but on a forum populated by fabricators, mechanics, tinkerers & abomineers* of all skill levels such assurances mean little - I mean no disrespect, but a few pictures of your builds (profile and/or build thread) would prove far more enlightening than any automotive repair certification.

There's some crossover ofc, but such certification isn't the most applicable or even required to be familiar with building, upgrading or diagnostics & repair of these bikes. Rather when seeking advice regarding such topics as this, I've always been a strong proponent of clicking the username, perusing their build examples and previous posts, which if the member has relevant experience usually provides far more of an idea as to the relative value of said advice and the experience behind it.

I suspect in this instance this disagreement stems not as much from experience as preference *shrug*




*what I consider myself lol

Hi, I have huasheng 142f and keep breaking clutch springs. they are factory springs.first approach from duane at dax was rubbing at end of bell housing. changed whole clutch pack and am still breaking springs. ordered .054 springs from stanton, gonna try that. I live in vermont and do alot of hills and weigh 200 so it seems factory springs are too light. anyway, suggestions on how to deal with this would be appreciated, thanks, Frank

simplest way to get these huasheng motors, to take off. is to change the alloy clutch, to an all steel one, they have centrifugal force that the alloy ones do not have. engages sooner, less noise, and more instant drive. I have never had any broken springs, should not happen on either type realy. i can get an alloy clutch for £4.95 FREE PO. AND A STEEL ONE FOR £6.OO FREE PO. IN THE UK. get an all steel one makes a great difference.