Overcoming of the brake arm/sprocket clash?
- Thread starter Shaggz
- Start date
fit with my brake arm?
Most coaster brake installations require the brake arm be bent (z-bend) to clear the sprocket/bolts. A bench vice makes it easier. A hammer or a big Crescent wrench will help bend the arm.
Good luck.
Tom
Good luck.
Tom
Some hubs need the bearing dust cover under the coaster brake arm modified to fit in the center hole of the sprocket without rubbing when the ragjoint is tightened as well.
This can be done with a dremel or a grinder and it's a pain in the behind if it IS needed.
I tend to just remove it on my personal bikes since I grease my hubs regularly, but it's a bad idea on a sale build or if you don't take excellent care of your hubs and bearings.
This can be done with a dremel or a grinder and it's a pain in the behind if it IS needed.
I tend to just remove it on my personal bikes since I grease my hubs regularly, but it's a bad idea on a sale build or if you don't take excellent care of your hubs and bearings.
I sell a sprocket that has a bigger hole to allow the dust cap to fit for $8 exchange on the standard sprocket (takes me about 20-25min to hog it out). Even with a good front brake, I don't like to build a cruiser with coasters tho due to the force applied to the bearings when that brake over heats. Got a lot of dead hubs here with cracked bearing races and one that split the race right off the rest of the hub. Usually, $60 extra will get you a cruiser with 7-speed rear wheel & good brakes.
