Would you recommend this front motor mount

GoldenMotor.com

Carson2000

New Member
Oct 25, 2015
23
0
0
California
I was riding my bike (not even 2 hours on it yet) and the threaded stud completely snapped in half. One half is still in the engine with no way to get it out. I'll will be getting help from a family member mechanic though. When this happened I was using jnm vibration mounts which I will be ditching after I read on the forums about them. My problem is I want to do another mounting style instead of the ones the kit gives. This is the one I'm interested in and ask for your feedback on this mount...
 

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KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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Phoenix,AZ
It sure helps to see actual good bike pics for help but...

I was riding my bike (not even 2 hours on it yet) and the threaded stud completely snapped in half.
One half is still in the engine with no way to get it out.
Let's start with basics...

1. Your back engine mount has to be dead tight to the seat post at a true 90 degree angle. That is the 'stop point' for power transfer to the bike frame with it's full surface and NOTHING in between, metal to metal.
If the stock block piece does not make the engine level make a new one.

2. Once the back will hold your engine in place all on it's own, fab in a front mount to keep the engine from moving left from the drive torque.
That's all it has to do and you make that with whatever fits to work.

3. Getting a broken stud out is tough.
The engine casting gives way more than the stud and it's easy to screw up.
I've have had to do this a couple times and I have found a combination of the right ~1" Dremmel type thin cutting wheel and making perfect X into the stud end, drilling a little pilot hole on end of that, and putting in a reverse thread EasyOut bit will get the broken stud out without and damage to the case.

I want to do another mounting style instead of the ones the kit gives. This is the one I'm interested in and ask for your feedback on this mount...
I recommend going with the SBP mount, it has all kinds of spacers, can be mounted in various ways, and work great.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=74&osCsid=c9tm401cnfkr2kt4eq004u0nv6

Again, it all starts with the engine true to the seat post and then get the front to hold it from twisting and the SBP bracket is nice but you can make your own...
Start with a muffler clamp that fits your front tube and gives you a flat spot to mount to, and then put something in between for the front mount.

Examples of extreme front mounts that do the job just fine.





Hope that helps.http://motorbicycling.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/
 

Carson2000

New Member
Oct 25, 2015
23
0
0
California
It sure helps to see actual good bike pics for help but...


Let's start with basics...

1. Your back engine mount has to be dead tight to the seat post at a true 90 degree angle. That is the 'stop point' for power transfer to the bike frame with it's full surface and NOTHING in between, metal to metal.
If the stock block piece does not make the engine level make a new one.

2. Once the back will hold your engine in place all on it's own, fab in a front mount to keep the engine from moving left from the drive torque.
That's all it has to do and you make that with whatever fits to work.

3. Getting a broken stud out is tough.
The engine casting gives way more than the stud and it's easy to screw up.
I've have had to do this a couple times and I have found a combination of the right ~1" Dremmel type thin cutting wheel and making perfect X into the stud end, drilling a little pilot hole on end of that, and putting in a reverse thread EasyOut bit will get the broken stud out without and damage to the case.

I recommend going with the SBP mount, it has all kinds of spacers, can be mounted in various ways, and work great.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=74&osCsid=c9tm401cnfkr2kt4eq004u0nv6

Again, it all starts with the engine true to the seat post and then get the front to hold it from twisting and the SBP bracket is nice but you can make your own...
Start with a muffler clamp that fits your front tube and gives you a flat spot to mount to, and then put something in between for the front mount.

Examples of extreme front mounts that do the job just fine.





Hope that helps.http://motorbicycling.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/


Thanks KC, I will be looking into buying those mounts. The reviews on them are great also.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
2,575
113
65
Newnan,Georgia
There's very little I can add, the one thing I learned is to use the thickest strap on the rear mount as possible. Some kits come with 2 or 3 straps, the thin type let the engine produce vibration and could cause the broken stud on the front by letting the engine move.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
There's very little I can add, the one thing I learned is to use the thickest strap on the rear mount as possible. Some kits come with 2 or 3 straps, the thin type let the engine produce vibration and could cause the broken stud on the front by letting the engine move.
Yep.
The back is what it's all about.
When the engine rear is true and one with the seat post to start with you cut out a ton problems that will come up if you don't later.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
No argument here. Make the rear mount fit the seat tube then do what's necessary to make the front just as secure and you'll be golden. Almost everything revolves around a good rear mount; angle, alignment and lateral stability. If the rear mount is solid to the frame and you have a front mount that does the same you won't have any problems. However, you must assure the engine is centered on the bike frame and not angled to one side or the other and you can have good chain/sprocket alignment.

When complete you should not be able to move the engine in the frame. It should feel like a part of the bike.

Tom
 

Carson2000

New Member
Oct 25, 2015
23
0
0
California
No argument here. Make the rear mount fit the seat tube then do what's necessary to make the front just as secure and you'll be golden. Almost everything revolves around a good rear mount; angle, alignment and lateral stability. If the rear mount is solid to the frame and you have a front mount that does the same you won't have any problems. However, you must assure the engine is centered on the bike frame and not angled to one side or the other and you can have good chain/sprocket alignment.

When complete you should not be able to move the engine in the frame. It should feel like a part of the bike.

Tom

Thanks. Thing is the frame is too wide of the engine to frame thing. So I am trying to find good mounts so the engine will be up and not hit crank sprocket.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Getting crank clearance is as easy as just raising the mounting location on the seat tube. That leaves you with mounting the front of the engine to the down tube. You might find an aftermarket mount that will work but fabrication of one is sometimes necessary. I'll post a link to an old thread that will give you lots of ideas on how to build a front engine mount. The thread was started to address oversized frame tubing but it covers odd shaped frames as well as some cruiser styles that don't lend themselves well to mounting an engine easily.
Here's that link > http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=6427

Tom
 
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KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Thanks. Thing is the frame is too wide of the engine to frame thing.
So I am trying to find good mounts so the engine will be up and not hit crank sprocket.
I buy these in bulk all the time.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74

You need to select the right muffler clamp size, do you have a caliper to measure your front tube diameter?

Actually you can get muffler clamps from most any auto parts store and make your own mount with a piece of steel, but I really the SBP Z design, metal, and assortment of spacers so you can bend the front just right in a vice and get a nice clean solid grip on the front tube too just by using good solid spacers in the right places.

Again, it's a simple test to see if it's right.
 
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