Has anyone done a check or seen a Kent Del Rio 26" bicycle? I have seen them for about 130.00 and was wondering if they are a strong candidate for a engine? Look good anyway. gphil
Kent Bike
- Thread starter gphil
- Start date
A motor with a 1.5" wide front mount bolts in perfectly front and back.
The top tube is too wide for the studs on the kit tank without a lot of mods.
The Del Rio is the usual poorly assembled Walmart bike with untrue wheels and badly adjusted brakes and gears.
Sent from my SCH-R720 using Forum Runner
The top tube is too wide for the studs on the kit tank without a lot of mods.
The Del Rio is the usual poorly assembled Walmart bike with untrue wheels and badly adjusted brakes and gears.
Sent from my SCH-R720 using Forum Runner
Good to know info. Seems like a good bike but guess not. Sort of want to do a stretch cruiser for kicks then another Schwinn type frame. Thanks again. gphil
even if it is poorly assembled at wally world you can easily straighten all that out and true the wheels and make a good build out of it, the tank issue can be got around also if you have the tools to do the fab work.
here is a site that has loads of bikes and some at some really good prices in my opinion, you might find something you like here.
http://www.jbikes.net/mens-26-1-speed-c-225_200_204.html
Map
I don't want to start a new thread (yet), but I'm looking for a cheap commuter bike.
fairly decent sized tires maybe 1.55-2" wide
fenders
must take, or have a rack
3 or more speed hub with coaster brake
I want to mount a 49cc fourstroke and eventually a shocked fork and brake
Any ideas?
fairly decent sized tires maybe 1.55-2" wide
fenders
must take, or have a rack
3 or more speed hub with coaster brake
I want to mount a 49cc fourstroke and eventually a shocked fork and brake
Any ideas?
3speed coaster brake wheel? Prepare to fork over good money, they do exist, but they are rare & not at all cheap! Good luck Greybeard.
I have several 3 speed coaster hub wheels but they're to big to use a Rag joint sprocket mount or the manic clamshell type also, in my opinion the 3 speed coaster hubs are more trouble than they would be worth to use on a motorized bicycle unless they are being used with a shifter set up and even then I'm not sure how well they would hold up unless someone was very easy on them, but that just my opinion.
Map
That should make a nice riding bike, I'm a bit leary of the narrow tires myself because I do some much rough road riding on the dirt alot, but several people use the 700c tire and like it a lot, I think Nashville Kat uses them and thinks a lot of how they work.
Best wished
Map
Absolutely right, you'll never get a proper kit sprocket mount on a 3-speed hub like the popular Shimano Nexus.
I do however find internal hubs for shifters far better than derailleurs for many reasons.
The biggest and most glaring reason is the final drive chain size and function.
I generally run 410 HD Z-chain but you can even run 415 if you want.
It is just one fixed sprocket to another.
A sprocket array however needs ever thinner chain depending on sprockets and the chain is forced to move from to another under power.
Dandy for human power, not so dandy when pedals have 100's of times more force with a motor power.
The trick is to learn how to operate a shifter and they will hold up fine, I just find the internals to be far more reliable as after a couple dozen 3-speed shifters and a couple of dozen 7(8,9)-speed shifters I have never seen a 3-speed fail but had several derailleur failures from broken chains, a broken derailleur, to bent gears and and even a bent axle.
Way off topic regarding this Kent bike, just reaffirming what map said, don't go with an internal geared hub if you are going direct drive.
KC
Ill be off topic hers a little also and ask since I know you have a lot of experience with shifter bikez and the 3 spee hubs, do you think one of the Sturmey Archer hubs from the 70's will hold up OK?
I also have a Japanese made Suntour 3 speed hub on a nice old womens Free Spirit bike I have wondered about.
Map
I have two bikes, Nirve Switchbaldes, that have 3 speed Nexus hubs with coaster brakes. Never have had any problems with them. One vendor makes a sprocket adapter that works perfectly on that Nexus hub and one of the bikes has one but the other has a rag joint. No problems with either one.
Tom
Tom
I was not a fan of 700c tires on motorbikes until I built a fixie for a customer. Screwy yellow tires and all, that bike rides extremely nice even bone stock! A better set of bars (get up off my back and wrists), a better seat, and I'd ride it anywhere. It has significantly less drag and coasts far better than most motorbikes, even with the #41 chain. I'm guessing it's due to less rolling resistance.
A strong, solid, comfortable (relatively) bike and it was under $100 brand new.
If those cheap yellow tires wear any better, I'm going to have to buy a set for The Pig!
A strong, solid, comfortable (relatively) bike and it was under $100 brand new.
If those cheap yellow tires wear any better, I'm going to have to buy a set for The Pig!
I'd like to lace my Sturmey Archer 3 Speed hub into a good steel cruiser rim and use some 12ga spokes, because I ride a lot on dirt roads I've always thought an internal shifting 3 speed hub would be my bezt bet for a shifter bike.
I don't know about the Suntour but Sturmey Archer has been making quality hubs for years. Good enough to still be good after 40 years? Most likely be OK if wasn't left out in the weather.
Not that expensive, $123. for a matched 26" wheel set with a 3-speed Nexus coaster brake and twist shifter.Superdave; said:
http://www.americasbikecompany.com/Shimano_Nexus_3_p/x-wheel-shimano3set.htm
The wheels are just 14g but solid and come in several colors, I used a yellow set with black spokes on the 4-stroke shifting yellow GT2.
Of course the coaster brake is useless on a shifter so you need alternate rear braking but I haven't broke one yet.
Now axle slipping is another issue, especially on an aluminum framed bike...
Since most 7-speed type bikes have vertical drop-outs the axle is kept in place but most cruiser style bikes have horizontal drop-outs and the right side of wheel tends to want to move forward from the motor torque.
I usually just put a bolt in the drop-out in front of the axle nut but they do make axle tensioners.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bic...m=4&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbs=shop:1
I really should get a couple while I am thinking about it, they sure make getting your chain tight and wheel aligned easier.
Yeah, those banjo bolts are awesome. I got a pair for my GT2 frame, they lock the axle in real tight.
40 year old hub is gonna need grease & fresh bearings to be acceptable for our needs.
I have heard of folks running 14 gauge spokes with no problems, but I'm a little concerned because it sounds like he's gonna jackshaft his on a geared hub. Lower gears multiply the torque and will put a lot of strain on those slender spokes, can he get bigger spokes on it without having to drill out the hub?
40 year old hub is gonna need grease & fresh bearings to be acceptable for our needs.
I have heard of folks running 14 gauge spokes with no problems, but I'm a little concerned because it sounds like he's gonna jackshaft his on a geared hub. Lower gears multiply the torque and will put a lot of strain on those slender spokes, can he get bigger spokes on it without having to drill out the hub?
I have dozens of shifter builds with 14's and no issues.
Most geared hubs will take 13's but even the HD internal hubs I look at don't go to 12 and I kind of question 12's on a bicycle wheel anyway...
With 14g's on a 26" wheel every spoke plays it part without contact between spokes.
With 12g's on the same <"2 tire rim all the spokes push against each other.
Then of course you have spoke material, the rim attachment screws, and the rim itself.
To put it another way I'd take a quality 14g wheel over any Huffy 12g wheel.
If I was going to lace a new shifting hub in however I'd spring for 13g's.
I've never seen a 12ga spoked wheel tacoed on here but Ihave seen some 14ga wheels really messed up, I also run some 14ga wheels as do a lot of us and I think they do just fine if the spokes are good and tight and the wheel is fairly true, I do think a wheel with 11-12ga spokes is stronger and the fact that the spokes are tight against each other makes me think that is a plus not a negative, but I could be wrong on that....
I agree KC that 14ga spokes can work great and have for me right along with my wheels that have 12ga spokes, but I can honestly say that if I knew I was gonna hit a very rough pot hole and had the choice between an aluminum wheel with 14ga spokes and a steel wheel with 12ga spokes..... I would certainly pick the steel wheel because a steel wheel with 12ga spokes is just simply gonna take a beating better, its gonna take a lot hard hit and more pressure to comprise the steel wheel with larger spokes than it will a single wall aluminum wheel with smaller spokes, but then again...... im gonna do my best to avoid any big pot holes so for me and most the aluminum wheel and 14ga spokes will probably work great and not ever cause us another trouble.
High end bmx bikes in many cases have large 11-12ga spomes for a reason, they will take more abuse and are stronger overall, but since my bikes dont get beat up like that im not to concerned about mine, I just make sure my spokes are tight and the bearings are greased and tension is correct, only had one broke spoke on a wheel so far and it was a rear wheel with 14ga spokes, it broke between the rubbers of a rag joint.
Like you said KC you have a lot of shifter builds out there that are holding up great so I'd say that proves that the 14ga spokes can hold up great on a shifter bike... an I aint skeered of them either....lol!
Map
I agree KC that 14ga spokes can work great and have for me right along with my wheels that have 12ga spokes, but I can honestly say that if I knew I was gonna hit a very rough pot hole and had the choice between an aluminum wheel with 14ga spokes and a steel wheel with 12ga spokes..... I would certainly pick the steel wheel because a steel wheel with 12ga spokes is just simply gonna take a beating better, its gonna take a lot hard hit and more pressure to comprise the steel wheel with larger spokes than it will a single wall aluminum wheel with smaller spokes, but then again...... im gonna do my best to avoid any big pot holes so for me and most the aluminum wheel and 14ga spokes will probably work great and not ever cause us another trouble.
High end bmx bikes in many cases have large 11-12ga spomes for a reason, they will take more abuse and are stronger overall, but since my bikes dont get beat up like that im not to concerned about mine, I just make sure my spokes are tight and the bearings are greased and tension is correct, only had one broke spoke on a wheel so far and it was a rear wheel with 14ga spokes, it broke between the rubbers of a rag joint.
Like you said KC you have a lot of shifter builds out there that are holding up great so I'd say that proves that the 14ga spokes can hold up great on a shifter bike... an I aint skeered of them either....lol!
Map
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