I realize this is not a trike question. But you guys do a great job of building them so I asking for your help. I am building a 1901 Ford C cab pickup 1/4 scale. I have been thru the trike section and could not find what I am looking for. The wheels that I am using are 26-1.75 with 3/4 bore thru hub (wagon wheels). My rear axle that I am using is a differential out of a lawn tractor, so that I can use the sproket and the disc brake. I need some information on attaching the wheels to the axle. These wheels have 1/4" spokes. Any ideas/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. Don B.
Attaching wheel to rear axle:
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I'm using a similar diffy axle on a project and had a maching shop cut 3/16" keyways in the axle ends 3/32'' deep. My hubs already had a keyway but the some shops have a keyway broach. Then use 3/16'' key stock to drive the wheels. Set screw collars keep the axle and hubs from sliding sideways.
1st, Thank you for your replies. The diffy that I am using, has keyways on the ends to lock the wheel hub to the axle. Also if you do not have a broach you can use a end mill on the axle but not the hubs. How did you attached the rims to the axle hub? As I am in the early stage. I will post pictures as I go, when I fiqure out how to do post them. Don B.
Its a 3/4" I.D. bore thru, no axle, ball bearings each side of the hub. Its actually called a wagon wheel (free wheeling). Don B.
You may have to remove the bearings and replace them with solid plugs with internal keyed 3/4'' bore. If the bearings press in against a stop, two pieces per wheel would be required with considerable interference fit. Would have to be pressed together using a dummy keyed shaft for alignment. If the wheel is a straight bore, then one piece per wheel would work. Have a machine shop make them if you don't have the equipment. They should end up about 1/2'' wider on each side of the wheel and have a set screw at the key on both sides. That would give the wheels plenty of support and a way to affix them to the 3/4'' axle. It may be those parts don't exist. Sometimes you have to outsource to get your project up on wheels. Anyway you would not be using the wheel hubs that were on the tractor axle at all. My grandson and I are making a replica of his 73 IHC Scout 4X4 using a simple garden tractor with a wooden body. I already made a Jeep for another grandson. You think the wheels are a challenge, try to stick with 1/3 scale. Stay with it, as the finished products are very rewarding. My kids can't wait to ride in the parade at the Vista museum.
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Beat me to it msrfan. If it will help go to farm supply check out the weld in hubs for making sprokets and pullys. They maybe could be turned down to fit But would allready have the keway cut in then........Curt
Also would not take much if a spot weld to hold them in
Also would not take much if a spot weld to hold them in
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The ancient way is to drill the axle and put a pin or bolt through it and the wheel hub to lock it to the axle. I've seen a pin and big washer behind a wheel and anther on the outside end for free spinning cart wheels. 
Thank you for the replies guys. These some awesome ideas. Now I will have to sort thru them and see what will be best. MSRFAN, that is great job on the Jeep. Who done the sheet metal work? Any more ideas/suggestions on attaching the wheels will be appreciated. After this project, I might try my hand at a motorized bike. I already stretch mini bikes and build more power in the engines.
msrfan, You are Welcome. curtisfox, the vari-drive is a good idea. But I am going to use either a B&S or a Honda hort'l shaft engine with a centrifugal clutch to a jack shaft then to the diffy. All chain driven. with using the diffy, I will basically have a limited slip rear end. Don B.
Sorry for the delay in posting. Had a few rush jobs to get out of the shop. I.E. snow blowers. As soon as I can find my camera and fiquire out how to post pictures on this site or any site for that matter. I am not to puter savy on this picture posting. I will post some. Don B. 
Maybe you misunder stood The tractors have a forward and reverse Diferential. with this veri-drive in between the engine and the diff. So you could use the veri-drive inbetween what you have or going to use. But it uses belts........Just a thought easy speed changing........Curt
Curtisfox, Thank you for your reply. I understand vari-drives quite well, as I own a small engine shop and repair and service push mowers , lawn tractors and garden tractors. One thing about the vari-drive especially in lawn tractors they are a pain to work on. I also build racing engines for go-karts and LT dragsters and LT racers, for both oval and road course racing. By using a jackshaft and diffy, I can change my gearing to stay at a fixed top speed. Most vari-drives are used on vertical shaft engines and just to many belts and pulleys to mess with and of course a transaxle. Don B.