new guy with a wse on a phantom
- Thread starter younggun85
- Start date
To get answers, Pics Pics Pics
I want to see that
Oh that's right you can't post pics till your 3rd post
really do need to see it to talk about mounts
but among this group I wouldn't be surprised to see a jet engine here and there
welcome to your new home away from home
LOL
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Hi, welcome to the forum and whizzer.
That ambassador motor came with the CVT tranny, which means you'll have to change your flywheel to the one with a pulley, to be able to use the manual clutch pulley or auto clutch. also the ambassador motor came with a 16mm carb which is to small, the 20mm or 22mm carb is better,www.motopartsmax.com
you'll need to get the main wiring harness too for your electrical,www.whizzerusa.com or call them and leave a message if they don't answer and they'll call you back, 1-877-944-9937.
I also use ND back hub and a.s. & co front with .105 spokes, works good for me.
Once again welcome,
Ray
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would you recommend the cvt tranny or should I go with an auto clutch? I am glad now that I didn't win the carb for it. What electrical do these require that I will need a harness for? I should probably add I have never even seen a motor bike up close, so I have no idea what's what, but I have always wanted one soooo bad! 
Can the larger spokes be used on a regular S2 and N.D. by drilling the holes a little larger? Are the thicker spokes necessary or would a standard set of wheels work fine? I can understand the purpose of upgrading the rear, but drilling a good porkchop brake seems like a bad idea and finding the right one will probably cost as much as I paid for the engine.
The carbs I see have a choke with a lever on them, is a choke and a throttle the same and therefore mean I want to replace this part for one that will work with a cable/ grip? Like number 25 on the whizzer wc1 carb spread sheet?
Is there a prefered brand/ model that will work best? Or are they like filters where they are so simple they are hard to mess up?
Can the larger spokes be used on a regular S2 and N.D. by drilling the holes a little larger? Are the thicker spokes necessary or would a standard set of wheels work fine? I can understand the purpose of upgrading the rear, but drilling a good porkchop brake seems like a bad idea and finding the right one will probably cost as much as I paid for the engine.The carbs I see have a choke with a lever on them, is a choke and a throttle the same and therefore mean I want to replace this part for one that will work with a cable/ grip? Like number 25 on the whizzer wc1 carb spread sheet?
Is there a prefered brand/ model that will work best? Or are they like filters where they are so simple they are hard to mess up?
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Sounds like you have quite the project lined up. What an adventure! Welcome to the forum. What part of Minnesota are you from? I'm up by the Canadian border on the Eagles Nest Lakes chain near Bearhead State Park outside of Ely. If you get up that way come visit.
Regarding the front wheel. Stout spokes are always a good idea as are good brakes. By pork chop brake I assume you are referring to a drum brake, is that right? As long as it is a good drum brake what difference does it make? I like Atom drum brakes made in France and found on lots of older mopeds. Pretty inexpensive and well made.
Are you trying to do a 'correct' restoration, or making your own brand of Whizzer in the spirit of the 1952 Phantom? If it were me (which it isn't unfortunately) I'd go for a build that looked good to me, ran great, was safe and in the spirit of a 50's Whizzer, but not overly worried about everything being "correct". I don't even have a Whizzer, but have always wanted one. Lucky you!
SB
Regarding the front wheel. Stout spokes are always a good idea as are good brakes. By pork chop brake I assume you are referring to a drum brake, is that right? As long as it is a good drum brake what difference does it make? I like Atom drum brakes made in France and found on lots of older mopeds. Pretty inexpensive and well made.
Are you trying to do a 'correct' restoration, or making your own brand of Whizzer in the spirit of the 1952 Phantom? If it were me (which it isn't unfortunately) I'd go for a build that looked good to me, ran great, was safe and in the spirit of a 50's Whizzer, but not overly worried about everything being "correct". I don't even have a Whizzer, but have always wanted one. Lucky you!
SB
I'm from Ham Lake it is just north of Blaine. My dad is from the Grand Rapids area and he has a sister that still lives there and a brother that lives in Northhome which is between big fork and the red lakes.
My plan is to do the build in the spirit of a 50's kit on a phantom, I want it to look as original as possible, but will substitute when necessary where cost or comfort out weigh originality. A nice original Phantom with a whizzer kit would cost more then my car so that option is out the door. So far I've got $355 in the engine and tank, and got the frame for $50, locking fork for $50, then I have other bike parts like crank, sprocket, bars, fenders, etc. I am trying to keep my budget under $900. I know a guy who is selling a low mileage 1999 for $1200 and I figured I could save money and have a better looking motorized bicycle if I built one myself. I don't like the way the new ones look as far as they seem to have so much extra parts and brackets crammed in the frame. Plus I can spend a little bit at a time or trade parts so the wife won't realize how much I spend. If I just forked out $1200 and came home with a motorbike I would be sleeping with the thing in the shed!
The porkchop is the alias given to the A.S & CO. front drum brakes used on the phantoms, autocycles etc. the cover and brake arm are a single stamping that looks like a porkchop as opposed to the cover and riveted brake arm like other drums have. I could get a "decent" complete front wheel with the porkchop for about $200, but to find one made for the whizzer with the larger spokes would be pretty impossible or overly expensive. It would have to come off a WZ serial whizzer and they rarely get parted out. My alternative would be an atom drum brake and an aftermarket S-2, but the cost would be about the same between the 50's standard gauge drum and the larger gauge atom drum however they look completely different.
I know a lot about the bicycles and parts because I have been collecting them since I was 14, but as far as the motors and operation this is a whole new world.
So far i have decided the auto clutch is the way to go. It makes it simpler and cleaner looking. My next issue is the carb and throttle. I understand the larger one is better, which I'm thinking for better air flow. Besides size what other things should I look for in picking a carb? Are all the inlet ports the same size? The carbs I see have a choke with a lever on them, is a choke and a throttle the same and therefore mean I want to replace this part for one that will work with a cable/ grip? Like number 25 on the whizzer wc1 carb spread sheet?
My plan is to do the build in the spirit of a 50's kit on a phantom, I want it to look as original as possible, but will substitute when necessary where cost or comfort out weigh originality. A nice original Phantom with a whizzer kit would cost more then my car so that option is out the door. So far I've got $355 in the engine and tank, and got the frame for $50, locking fork for $50, then I have other bike parts like crank, sprocket, bars, fenders, etc. I am trying to keep my budget under $900. I know a guy who is selling a low mileage 1999 for $1200 and I figured I could save money and have a better looking motorized bicycle if I built one myself. I don't like the way the new ones look as far as they seem to have so much extra parts and brackets crammed in the frame. Plus I can spend a little bit at a time or trade parts so the wife won't realize how much I spend. If I just forked out $1200 and came home with a motorbike I would be sleeping with the thing in the shed!
The porkchop is the alias given to the A.S & CO. front drum brakes used on the phantoms, autocycles etc. the cover and brake arm are a single stamping that looks like a porkchop as opposed to the cover and riveted brake arm like other drums have. I could get a "decent" complete front wheel with the porkchop for about $200, but to find one made for the whizzer with the larger spokes would be pretty impossible or overly expensive. It would have to come off a WZ serial whizzer and they rarely get parted out. My alternative would be an atom drum brake and an aftermarket S-2, but the cost would be about the same between the 50's standard gauge drum and the larger gauge atom drum however they look completely different.
I know a lot about the bicycles and parts because I have been collecting them since I was 14, but as far as the motors and operation this is a whole new world.
So far i have decided the auto clutch is the way to go. It makes it simpler and cleaner looking. My next issue is the carb and throttle. I understand the larger one is better, which I'm thinking for better air flow. Besides size what other things should I look for in picking a carb? Are all the inlet ports the same size? The carbs I see have a choke with a lever on them, is a choke and a throttle the same and therefore mean I want to replace this part for one that will work with a cable/ grip? Like number 25 on the whizzer wc1 carb spread sheet?
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What should I do if this takes longer then expected?
I have a feeling it could take some time to get all the parts together I need and even more time to assemble everything. Is there anything I should do if I am planning on have the engine sit for a year or even two? When I restore a bicycle it usually takes 6-months to a year to get everything and put it together. There are also other bikes that have sat for years, because parts are either too expensive or I don't want to waste money on the "imitations" that are available. I usually look through dozens of auctions or wait for one of the two annual swap meets here in the twin cities.
I have a feeling it could take some time to get all the parts together I need and even more time to assemble everything. Is there anything I should do if I am planning on have the engine sit for a year or even two? When I restore a bicycle it usually takes 6-months to a year to get everything and put it together. There are also other bikes that have sat for years, because parts are either too expensive or I don't want to waste money on the "imitations" that are available. I usually look through dozens of auctions or wait for one of the two annual swap meets here in the twin cities.
You shoulda grabbed the exhaust pipe too...I seen that among the listed parts on eBay. I'm not sure you can just add a flywheel with pulley to that engine...I know the cranks are different lengths but I forgot which is which....leaving it CVT? You get the starter and belts etc? Like ray says'youll need a harness and module and the voltage regulator.
The only things I managed to win were the engine and tank. I tried getting all the parts you listed, but lost out last minute. I am hoping my engine and tank arrive today. I'm sure once I've got it in my hands I won't be as lost. I've got a very good understanding of engines, but the whizzer engine is unlike anything I've seen in person. Do they run off a magneto like other small gas engines? I noticed some of the originals have a crankshaft mounted generator.
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Got the engine today. I have been excited all evening.
Snapped a couple of pictures. There's original black phantom paint under there somewhere, not sure how great it is though. The long shaft and the ambassador mount allow it to sit nice for display until it is ready to go in the bike.
Snapped a couple of pictures. There's original black phantom paint under there somewhere, not sure how great it is though. The long shaft and the ambassador mount allow it to sit nice for display until it is ready to go in the bike.
It's been on hold. Right now I am trying to finish a 1969 Schwinn Pea Picker and then a 1958 Schwinn Streamliner. I went and picked up a complete kit today I figured it was cheaper then buying all the parts. The engine in the kit has the whizzer ground out of the side cover, but looks pretty identical from the outside. I am trying to figure out how to remove the long shaft on the WSE that is used to bolt on to the cvt tranny for the ambassador. It seems like if I can do this I can put the regular belt wheel on it. The engine from the kit just has a bolt that goes through the wheel I am guessing the WSE is designed the same way. Can anyone tell me if the bolt is reverse threaded?
