The Whizzer Experiment
- Thread starter Atlanta CPR
- Start date
what! tell us more, we don't need another mason man hording all the bikes...you can only ride one at a time you know!
Mason_Man, I have come to respect the work that you have done to your bikes. Tell me what you think I should do to a wc1 with 180 miles and no work done to it.
Hi Atlanta CPR, it sounds like Quenton has gotten you on the right path. I hope it works out. I chose to go in a different direction, if you can control the heat (keep it where it needs to be) then the WC-1 or NE will be a much better motor. Heat coating helps to do that.you can look up Thermal Barriers for piston,valves and combustion chamber. Maybe you can post some pics of your whizzers. By the way dmb has 3 whizzers and i think he's working on number 4. Thanks Ray
One of the "many" reasons the motor runs hot is piston design. The piston is round and causes a lot of additional fricton. Cam ground pistons are wider between the front & rear skirt, and narrower from side to side. Take .004" off the piston on each side below the wrist pin hole to the bottom of the piston. Vintage Whizzer pistons are not round and run much cooler.
BTW........I have reduced my personal collection to only 11 Whizzers and several EZM proto-types. Of the 11 Whizzers, one will pull wheelies, another has 2 motors, 5 are vintage, 6 are New Edition, and one is a rare 2007 Ambassador "1" electric start.
Have fun,
BTW........I have reduced my personal collection to only 11 Whizzers and several EZM proto-types. Of the 11 Whizzers, one will pull wheelies, another has 2 motors, 5 are vintage, 6 are New Edition, and one is a rare 2007 Ambassador "1" electric start.
Have fun,
Last edited:
they should have warned us. i think crack might be easier to get off of than MAB's and their's no betty ford clinic to help us out! [2HT's 3 whizzers 1 morini and i'm working on a 4 stroke racer for my grandson#1. theirs 2 more] love every minute of this hobby. that's if i don't go broke first. oh! and the best part is the people i meet. dennis
I was looking thru one of the old Bob Baker newsletters and came across a Whizzer Service Bulletin Dated Sep.16 1948 The subject was All New Light Weight Piston,the difference I see between the standard piston which looks similar to the current whizzer piston was the the light weight design had an area below the bottom ring that was relieved or had been turned to a smaller diameter to reduces weight and friction? also the skirt was shorter below the wrist pin. I wonder if it would be possible to modify a standard piston to work in the same way? Any Thoughts anyone.
Brent
Brent
Hi Brent,
Whizzer made several pistons including a "racing" piston.
The "racing" piston had the majority of the side skirt removed, whereas all other versions had "reduced" sides below the wrist pin. The special "racing" piston also use different type rings. Because the original rings are impossible to find I had several of my NOS "racing" pistons re-worked to accept the standard Whizzer rings [see attachments].
Have fun,
Whizzer made several pistons including a "racing" piston.
The "racing" piston had the majority of the side skirt removed, whereas all other versions had "reduced" sides below the wrist pin. The special "racing" piston also use different type rings. Because the original rings are impossible to find I had several of my NOS "racing" pistons re-worked to accept the standard Whizzer rings [see attachments].
Have fun,
Attachments
Quenton Do you think it would work to modify the stock piston by revealing
the center area of the skirt and cutting away some of the skirt below the wrist pin?
the center area of the skirt and cutting away some of the skirt below the wrist pin?
Hi Brent,
It is possible to modify a stock piston, but never to the level of the "racing" piston, due to wrist pin support area of the piston. Please note the extra "webbing" on the inner part of the "racing" piston where the wrist pin resides.
When I raced for Ducati & Harley we always modified the piston to reduce contact area.
You can simply use a mill and reduce the area below the wrist pin, but be careful to remove the same amount from both sides or it will be out of balance. You can also "reduce" the contact area on both front and rear skirts by reducing the area approx 1/4" below the bottom ring and 1/4" from the bottom of the piston skirt [as pictured on the "racing" piston photo].
It is possible to modify a stock piston, but never to the level of the "racing" piston, due to wrist pin support area of the piston. Please note the extra "webbing" on the inner part of the "racing" piston where the wrist pin resides.
When I raced for Ducati & Harley we always modified the piston
You can simply use a mill and reduce the area below the wrist pin, but be careful to remove the same amount from both sides or it will be out of balance. You can also "reduce" the contact area on both front and rear skirts by reducing the area approx 1/4" below the bottom ring and 1/4" from the bottom of the piston skirt [as pictured on the "racing" piston photo].
Thanks for the photos and input. I think I will give it a try. It will be interesting to see if it makes a noticeable difference.
Hey guys, I went on a 30 mile ride with the experimental WC1 motor today.
Thanks Cannonball2! Quenton you're a genius!
Thanks Cannonball2! Quenton you're a genius!
Had a great time sunday! Nice ride on a beautiful day through some beautiful country. Your Whizzer did great.
Cannonball2, I really enjoyed your side of town! I'm extremely glad to have had the privilege of the invite. Next time, I want to see a bear or a coyote. LoL
Well, my experimental WC1 motor has 125 miles on it. And it's still going strong! I think The Quentonization is a success!
Quenton - I wonder if you made a tool for your drill press that would look like one of those tapered step drills, that would just fit inside the valve seat to one of the early cylinders. What I am thinking is that you would put the cylinder on the table and run the taper into the seat till it would catch, and at a medium speed spin the seat till it would gall into place. The heat and friction would weld it in. I know of a lot of welding done this way, not with dissimilar metals so much, but you know how hard it is to get Aluminum off a crank when the rod stuck, LOL. Just thinking out loud, just an Idea. Have fun, Dave
