SB and Steve, looking real nice. The motor fits in there like it was made just for it and I like the handlebars. Are they from the Schwinn girls bike? I was thinking of doing that to the pair I have off the 52 girls bike and trying to rig up a thumb throttle at some point. Keep at it guys. Dan
Indian Hiawatha
- Thread starter silverbear
- Start date
Dan,
Yes, I'm pretty sure the handlebars came from a 1952 girl's Schwinn. In the treasure trove of stuff Steve is packing up for Vancouver is a 1942 Schwinn New World ladies bike that has those same handlebars. I think they're going to feel good, too, with a nice position for hands. Barelyawake might be able to steer you to a good looking and well made thumb throttle as I recall he got one for his tadpole recumbent build. Might be easier on the wrist for those long rides.
We ran out of welding wire yesterday so made a run to Virginia for some wire & welding tips of a smaller size. He's been using .035 and wanted to use .030 for the lighter work. I'm counting on you to help me a little with what you know about welding to get me started.
Steve plans to pull out tomorrow, hoping to get my exhaust pipe welded up today. It's been a good run this summer with a lot accomplished, but with a lot unfinished, too. Winter work. He's sure leaving with more than he came with and a whole list of things to work on through the winter. Me, too. Beats watching game shows on T.V.
I'm shifting into end of summer/ prepare for migration mode myself. I'm finishing up the little bike hauling trailer today by getting the wiring from the jeep and to the trailer lights squared away and bought new tires and a spare rim. I sold my ebay listing of the 53 Schwinn Hornet and will be delivering that south of Chicago on September 30th. So I expect to be in the Catoktin Mountains late Saturday/early Sunday. I said I'd be back in time for Colorfest in Thurmont and will be ready to ride! Since the Indian and the Orphan moped are neither one road ready I may bring along the Panther so I have something to put gas in and go. Very much looking forward to seeing your Stretch Worksman.
Hopefully I will log in this evening with an exhaust pipe for show n' tell.
Hey to Jackie & the boys.
SB
Yes, I'm pretty sure the handlebars came from a 1952 girl's Schwinn. In the treasure trove of stuff Steve is packing up for Vancouver is a 1942 Schwinn New World ladies bike that has those same handlebars. I think they're going to feel good, too, with a nice position for hands. Barelyawake might be able to steer you to a good looking and well made thumb throttle as I recall he got one for his tadpole recumbent build. Might be easier on the wrist for those long rides.
We ran out of welding wire yesterday so made a run to Virginia for some wire & welding tips of a smaller size. He's been using .035 and wanted to use .030 for the lighter work. I'm counting on you to help me a little with what you know about welding to get me started.
Steve plans to pull out tomorrow, hoping to get my exhaust pipe welded up today. It's been a good run this summer with a lot accomplished, but with a lot unfinished, too. Winter work. He's sure leaving with more than he came with and a whole list of things to work on through the winter. Me, too. Beats watching game shows on T.V.
I'm shifting into end of summer/ prepare for migration mode myself. I'm finishing up the little bike hauling trailer today by getting the wiring from the jeep and to the trailer lights squared away and bought new tires and a spare rim. I sold my ebay listing of the 53 Schwinn Hornet and will be delivering that south of Chicago on September 30th. So I expect to be in the Catoktin Mountains late Saturday/early Sunday. I said I'd be back in time for Colorfest in Thurmont and will be ready to ride! Since the Indian and the Orphan moped are neither one road ready I may bring along the Panther so I have something to put gas in and go. Very much looking forward to seeing your Stretch Worksman.
Hopefully I will log in this evening with an exhaust pipe for show n' tell.
Hey to Jackie & the boys.
SB
Steve welded up the original mounting point where the Hiawatha front fender bolted to the underside of the head tube. I wanted to slide the fender forward so the fender strut would align with the horizontal run at the bottom of the Worksman frame. So we made a patch from an old fender and Steve welded the patch into place.
While he was doing that I cut up two donor girls bikes, one a 24" Seminole made by Hiawatha and the other a bike I'd never heard of called an Evans, made in Evans Michigan. It turns out that bike was made by Colson and it yielded some good parts. We used the lower down tube loop from the Colson for the curve at the exhaust manifold and used the seat posts from both bikes for the straight run. At the upper portion of the Seminole seat tube it was slotted, so we incorporated that end for the HT muffler to slide in to. A Schwinn seat post clamp was utilized to join the exhaust pipe to the muffler. Neat.
(cont.)
SB
While he was doing that I cut up two donor girls bikes, one a 24" Seminole made by Hiawatha and the other a bike I'd never heard of called an Evans, made in Evans Michigan. It turns out that bike was made by Colson and it yielded some good parts. We used the lower down tube loop from the Colson for the curve at the exhaust manifold and used the seat posts from both bikes for the straight run. At the upper portion of the Seminole seat tube it was slotted, so we incorporated that end for the HT muffler to slide in to. A Schwinn seat post clamp was utilized to join the exhaust pipe to the muffler. Neat.
(cont.)
SB
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Where the exhaust pipe threads on to the exhaust manifold the connector was messed up some from someone reefing down on it with channel locks, I imagine. I suspect there was a gasket in there which eventually wore out and the resulting exhaust leak was "fixed" by trying to tighten it more than it could be tightened. We wanted to take up the slop in order to get the pipe lined up right, so Steve used solid core copper wire, several turns worth, inside to take up the space. It did, although I doubt it will make a very good seal. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
The Colson seat tube yielded an interesting and useful section of structural metal behind the seat post. I didn't cut it off while cutting up the bikes, thinking that it might give a way to hang the pipe from the bike. Which it did. Steve welded a piece to the top of it and it fits behind the seat tube on the worksman and in front of the lower attachment point for the rear fender. I moved the center stand back as far as possible so that when the bike is raised the rear wheel comes off the ground... which should make it easier to hand start using the pedal ( in other words, turning the pedal by hand to start it).
The pipe hanger works beautifully and I'll be able to further secure the pipe to the frame with a hanging strap connected to the seat post clamp I'm using to join the muffler to the pipe. So the clamp there will do double duty. Elegant.
Steve did a great job using what we had. Nothing was bent; we don't have the means to do that. The donor girls bikes yielded everything we needed to make the pipe and an unwanted HT muffler caps it off. I like it very much and the price was right, even if it was an awful lot of work for Steve. It shows what you can do if you look around at what you have and go from there.
Tomorrow I'll paint the pipe with high temp paint and the muffler will be left chrome.
I was thinking today what can be done yourself with two tools... a wire feed welder and a side grinder. Having those two tools opens up a whole world of possibilities for the backyard builder. In the long run they can save you a lot of money.
SB
The Colson seat tube yielded an interesting and useful section of structural metal behind the seat post. I didn't cut it off while cutting up the bikes, thinking that it might give a way to hang the pipe from the bike. Which it did. Steve welded a piece to the top of it and it fits behind the seat tube on the worksman and in front of the lower attachment point for the rear fender. I moved the center stand back as far as possible so that when the bike is raised the rear wheel comes off the ground... which should make it easier to hand start using the pedal ( in other words, turning the pedal by hand to start it).
The pipe hanger works beautifully and I'll be able to further secure the pipe to the frame with a hanging strap connected to the seat post clamp I'm using to join the muffler to the pipe. So the clamp there will do double duty. Elegant.
Steve did a great job using what we had. Nothing was bent; we don't have the means to do that. The donor girls bikes yielded everything we needed to make the pipe and an unwanted HT muffler caps it off. I like it very much and the price was right, even if it was an awful lot of work for Steve. It shows what you can do if you look around at what you have and go from there.
Tomorrow I'll paint the pipe with high temp paint and the muffler will be left chrome.
I was thinking today what can be done yourself with two tools... a wire feed welder and a side grinder. Having those two tools opens up a whole world of possibilities for the backyard builder. In the long run they can save you a lot of money.
SB
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Curtis Fox is making up the leaf spring front fork and sent along some detail pictures of progress made.
He says he turned down the ends of the rods to 5/16" to fit into the little plates easier.
He also says the holes in the plates will be enlarged later after welding. (There is a 4th plate, temporarily hiding the little rascal...)
"Here is the bending jig. I had to redoe a couple because if you don't heat it just right it doesn't bend in just the right spot, and if you don't clamp the tail untill it cools, it will work its way stright to some degree..........Curt"
"So here is what they will look like whn done. I also made a jig to hold them upright like the picture so the welder can o it easy. The exses cut off and they are at the welder to get tig welded. Not to worry he has to me a faver he owes me..........................Curt"
Oh boy, Curt, we're getting closer! Exhaust is made, engine is in place, drive line looks good, sidecar frame is done. I still have to work around a problem with a couple of little parts missing from the engine... nothing super critical, but it would be nice to have them. There are threaded cable adjusters for the carb, the clutch and the decompression valve. I have one and have had no luck locating more like it. Steve's engine doesn't have even one. What I have found from bicycles are 8 mm. and the smallest I've located on the web for motorcycles is 6mm. Looks like we'll have to order from Germany which is OK since we also have to order a couple parts for the gear shift controls. I'll use the one I have for the clutch and mickey mouse it from there until the new parts come... can't wait til Christmas to fire the motor up, but probably won't happen for a month or so when I get to Maryland.
Very much looking forward to seeing your leaf spring fork on the front of the bike, Curt... gonna be cause for celebration for both of us. Woohoo!
SB
He says he turned down the ends of the rods to 5/16" to fit into the little plates easier.
He also says the holes in the plates will be enlarged later after welding. (There is a 4th plate, temporarily hiding the little rascal...)
"Here is the bending jig. I had to redoe a couple because if you don't heat it just right it doesn't bend in just the right spot, and if you don't clamp the tail untill it cools, it will work its way stright to some degree..........Curt"
"So here is what they will look like whn done. I also made a jig to hold them upright like the picture so the welder can o it easy. The exses cut off and they are at the welder to get tig welded. Not to worry he has to me a faver he owes me..........................Curt"
Oh boy, Curt, we're getting closer! Exhaust is made, engine is in place, drive line looks good, sidecar frame is done. I still have to work around a problem with a couple of little parts missing from the engine... nothing super critical, but it would be nice to have them. There are threaded cable adjusters for the carb, the clutch and the decompression valve. I have one and have had no luck locating more like it. Steve's engine doesn't have even one. What I have found from bicycles are 8 mm. and the smallest I've located on the web for motorcycles is 6mm. Looks like we'll have to order from Germany which is OK since we also have to order a couple parts for the gear shift controls. I'll use the one I have for the clutch and mickey mouse it from there until the new parts come... can't wait til Christmas to fire the motor up, but probably won't happen for a month or so when I get to Maryland.
Very much looking forward to seeing your leaf spring fork on the front of the bike, Curt... gonna be cause for celebration for both of us. Woohoo!
SB
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Its been a super good learning expirance for me, and funn to do. I will save all the jigs incase I want to build another mybe even one for myself. I plan on doing a Indian build a little later after I get done with my curent build...........Curt
Boy! are all you guys having as much fun as it appears? This gives me more to look for in retirement, if and when it happens. Nice job using the donor bikes and the exhaust looks great. I too am looking forward to seein the leaf spring. Something I've wanted to do for a couple years. Nice job Curt!. SB, as to the welding lessons. I'll run out and get the "Welding Cliff Notes" and "Welding for Dummies" books this weekends. I'm looking forward to seeing this little guy. Our welder at work has a small Hobart of some kind at home. Got the thread gauge today and it looks like the front axle on the Worksman is 3/8-26. I will try to locate a die and we'll go from there. Thanks for all the tutorials fellas. Dan
That exhaust looks beautiful. PERFECT!!! I love it, you guys are doing some very very nice work and having a ball. Look forward to seeing more.
It has been fun, but also a pretty hard push for a couple of old guys. Don't mind saying I'm worn out. These photos will be the last for a time since I need to shut this place down and get busy packing... a big deal when you're going away until next May. What to take, what to leave behind, will it all fit?
Someone asked for more photos of the handlebar extension. The first photo shows the coupling piece inside. I don't remember now what it was, but I think it was another section of handlebar slotted so that it could be squeezed inside. Steve can correct me if I'm wrong. Where it looks dull forward of the grip area is where the old grips were. Most of the new part will be covered by the throttle and hand grip. There's an inch or two which will rust since it was ground down for the weld. I can cover that with the same leather as the grips or do a little bead work there or paint the little bit black.
I've also pretty well decided to use the headlight Dave the antique motor guy gave me which was from a German motorcycle. I don't know how old it is, but it seems in keeping with the rest of the build and likely came off of the German Wanderer which yielded a gas tank Steve will use this winter. The Wanderer was powered by a Sachs engine, perhaps the one on my Indian, so it seems right. It has two bulbs in it for high and low bean and will be adequate for my purposes.
(CONT.)
SB
Someone asked for more photos of the handlebar extension. The first photo shows the coupling piece inside. I don't remember now what it was, but I think it was another section of handlebar slotted so that it could be squeezed inside. Steve can correct me if I'm wrong. Where it looks dull forward of the grip area is where the old grips were. Most of the new part will be covered by the throttle and hand grip. There's an inch or two which will rust since it was ground down for the weld. I can cover that with the same leather as the grips or do a little bead work there or paint the little bit black.
I've also pretty well decided to use the headlight Dave the antique motor guy gave me which was from a German motorcycle. I don't know how old it is, but it seems in keeping with the rest of the build and likely came off of the German Wanderer which yielded a gas tank Steve will use this winter. The Wanderer was powered by a Sachs engine, perhaps the one on my Indian, so it seems right. It has two bulbs in it for high and low bean and will be adequate for my purposes.
(CONT.)
SB
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I attached the fender today to see how things are going to look. The front fender is rolled forward a few inches and the Hiawatha ornament is also move back on the fender an inch or so making the head dress more in line with the horizontals of the bike. Not a big deal, I know, but it isn't something I'll likely do later and it would bug me a little that I didn't take the time. The same with rolling forward the fender so the strut is also horizontal to the rest of the bike. Nobody else might care, but I do. I expect to be looking at this bike for a good many years and many miles, so I might as well enjoy what I see.
The fenders are 1939 Hiawatha (and still need a lot of work), but the rear rack came off a 60's middleweight Hiawatha Seminole. I liked how it attaches to the seat post and directly to the fender instead of having struts reaching down to the axle which would have wrecked the curving flow of lines coming from the fender. So I think they go together nicely and are both Hiawatha so of the same tribe, you might say. The leather tool box on the rack will be good for a few tools or that roll of hundred dollar bills I keep waiting for.
And that's about it for now. The Indian will get covered and put away along with the other bike projects. There are boxes to pack up, a dock to get out of the lake, well to shut down for the winter and be out of here by the 29th of September. In a month I'll be back at work on the bike and hope to be riding it before winter.
A neighbor lady was admiring the projects today and especially the Indian Hiawatha. She wanted to know what color it was going to be. I said, "cream with black accents". She thought it should be red. "Ruby red!" So, I've been thinking about that. Maybe I am kind of stuck in a rut with cream and black (also black and cream). What would you suggest? I like cobalt blue. Turquoise would be kind of an American Indian color. Cream with black is nice... ha!
SB
The fenders are 1939 Hiawatha (and still need a lot of work), but the rear rack came off a 60's middleweight Hiawatha Seminole. I liked how it attaches to the seat post and directly to the fender instead of having struts reaching down to the axle which would have wrecked the curving flow of lines coming from the fender. So I think they go together nicely and are both Hiawatha so of the same tribe, you might say. The leather tool box on the rack will be good for a few tools or that roll of hundred dollar bills I keep waiting for.
And that's about it for now. The Indian will get covered and put away along with the other bike projects. There are boxes to pack up, a dock to get out of the lake, well to shut down for the winter and be out of here by the 29th of September. In a month I'll be back at work on the bike and hope to be riding it before winter.
A neighbor lady was admiring the projects today and especially the Indian Hiawatha. She wanted to know what color it was going to be. I said, "cream with black accents". She thought it should be red. "Ruby red!" So, I've been thinking about that. Maybe I am kind of stuck in a rut with cream and black (also black and cream). What would you suggest? I like cobalt blue. Turquoise would be kind of an American Indian color. Cream with black is nice... ha!
SB
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Thanks for the pictures of the bars. I am going to look for a pair of them. I like the way you moved the fender forword looks more right. God luck on your packing I have a list for the motorhome it helps me not forget anything...........Curt
ps that is the same way I splice the forks to shorten or lengthen the top tube.
ps that is the same way I splice the forks to shorten or lengthen the top tube.
Tinsmith,
It is great to be retired. The hours are wonderful and yours to enjoy and the work load light if you stay away from building bikes but then why retire? The only complaints I've found is that they make you wait too long and the pay isn't great.
Should have loaned Bill Gates the money when he asked. Computers will never catch on says I, so don't waste your time.
On the road tomorrow too and will post when I'm home and back in operation. The tricar will be first on the list.
It has been great here and we have had a blast doing all our builds. Amazing dump/tip finds and the fun of digging them out. I think some of the people there are a little surprised how fast an old guy with a cane can move when something good is spotted in the pile. So is the old guy with the cane for that matter.
Old age slips away when the perfect bit is seen.
Silverbears endless stock of old bikes is just that. Endless. I'm taking a load home to use in my builds. Explain that to customs at the border.
It's just old bike parts with no value.
Why are you bringing then in then?
Because I'm not the smartest of my mother children!
Silverbear and I have talked about the tools we have used and how they helped with the builds.
The Hobart welder has been great. My son builds and repairs Toyota 4x4 rock crawlers. That is where I first saw how well they worked. He uses a 125A/115V machine and I can attest that they will blow a hole in the metal with the best of them if your not very carful. At 115V I don't think that unless you are doing really heavy welding you would need thier 220V welder.
We got a deal on an old stock one but they are around $350-$375. If you can get one without hurting your budget They are worth the money.
Another surprise was Harbour Freight's 4/4 1/2 inch cut off wheels. They also had a package that had 5 cut off wheels, 60,80,120 flap discs for sanding metal and a couple of hard grinding wheels in 4 inch for under $10. The flap discs held up as well if you don't load them up with really heavy paint. Three or more coats did them in or one heavy coat.
The 4 1/2" cut off wheels were 10 for just under $10
The cut off wheels are thin but held up very well and we used them by turning the Dewalt grinder on it's side and cutting what we wanted. They work very quickly and made the job easier.
I just cut a slot in a piece of old handlebar and squeezed it to fit into the handle bar so we could weld the extentions on. Left a space about the thickness of a quarter between the two handle bar pieces so the weld would contact the spacer and hold it in place for support and it couldn't move. Same thing with the exhaust pipe we made.
It helps line the two halves up as well as add support. They were about 3" long in the handle bar and 1" in the exhaust to make for a minimum of disturbance as the exhaust passes through.
You don't need welding for dummies. Just start welding on something that you can't possibly replace and I can tell you from personal experience that you will have the perfect weld. Fear is a wonderful teacher.
Steve.
It is great to be retired. The hours are wonderful and yours to enjoy and the work load light if you stay away from building bikes but then why retire? The only complaints I've found is that they make you wait too long and the pay isn't great.
Should have loaned Bill Gates the money when he asked. Computers will never catch on says I, so don't waste your time.
On the road tomorrow too and will post when I'm home and back in operation. The tricar will be first on the list.
It has been great here and we have had a blast doing all our builds. Amazing dump/tip finds and the fun of digging them out. I think some of the people there are a little surprised how fast an old guy with a cane can move when something good is spotted in the pile. So is the old guy with the cane for that matter.
Old age slips away when the perfect bit is seen.
Silverbears endless stock of old bikes is just that. Endless. I'm taking a load home to use in my builds. Explain that to customs at the border.
It's just old bike parts with no value.
Why are you bringing then in then?
Because I'm not the smartest of my mother children!
Silverbear and I have talked about the tools we have used and how they helped with the builds.
The Hobart welder has been great. My son builds and repairs Toyota 4x4 rock crawlers. That is where I first saw how well they worked. He uses a 125A/115V machine and I can attest that they will blow a hole in the metal with the best of them if your not very carful. At 115V I don't think that unless you are doing really heavy welding you would need thier 220V welder.
We got a deal on an old stock one but they are around $350-$375. If you can get one without hurting your budget They are worth the money.
Another surprise was Harbour Freight's 4/4 1/2 inch cut off wheels. They also had a package that had 5 cut off wheels, 60,80,120 flap discs for sanding metal and a couple of hard grinding wheels in 4 inch for under $10. The flap discs held up as well if you don't load them up with really heavy paint. Three or more coats did them in or one heavy coat.
The 4 1/2" cut off wheels were 10 for just under $10
The cut off wheels are thin but held up very well and we used them by turning the Dewalt grinder on it's side and cutting what we wanted. They work very quickly and made the job easier.
I just cut a slot in a piece of old handlebar and squeezed it to fit into the handle bar so we could weld the extentions on. Left a space about the thickness of a quarter between the two handle bar pieces so the weld would contact the spacer and hold it in place for support and it couldn't move. Same thing with the exhaust pipe we made.
It helps line the two halves up as well as add support. They were about 3" long in the handle bar and 1" in the exhaust to make for a minimum of disturbance as the exhaust passes through.
You don't need welding for dummies. Just start welding on something that you can't possibly replace and I can tell you from personal experience that you will have the perfect weld. Fear is a wonderful teacher.
Steve.
Harry,
Thank you.
We had a lot of creative staring and "What do you think's" in it.
Best part was when we put a piece down it mixed in with the 8 or 10 pieces of pipe the same basic shape and colour on the work bench and I would lose track of it and have to start over again.
Solved the problem by tack welding it in place if it worked. Just love old age.
Thank heavens it wasn't any longer in length or we'd still be there.
Steve.
Thank you.
We had a lot of creative staring and "What do you think's" in it.
Best part was when we put a piece down it mixed in with the 8 or 10 pieces of pipe the same basic shape and colour on the work bench and I would lose track of it and have to start over again.
Solved the problem by tack welding it in place if it worked. Just love old age.
Thank heavens it wasn't any longer in length or we'd still be there.
Steve.
Thanks, Steve. It's been great watching what you guys are doing. Maybe if things play out right next summer and you are there I could slip up for a couple days. Wouldn't stay long, but would like to meet you and have a bar of soap and a beer in the lake. Yes, I found out that using some tubing or solid inside the frame makes for a better job for me. It does line things up and I can focus the heat there and work it up on to the frame. Those look like the same handlebars I have and would like to extend them and figure out a thumb throttle. I aquired some old ball end grips that would look nice and they are about 5" long. I think they would look good on the frame that SB gave me this spring, and if I can get this axle made for the forks he left they would look good also. Have a safe trip back west. Dan
SB, what a nice bike that is going to be. It's really going to have the vintage look, and those fenders are the BEST! We have been deluged with rain, although not as bad as it is just east of here. Haven't been up to see how the the side of the mountain is holding near your place, but haven't heard anything so maybe they have it stabilized. Ruby Red would make it (and you) a chick magnet for sure, so I'd be careful. You'll have to borrow Steve's cane to keep them away. I have one here you can use if needed. Take care, Dan
SB your bike would look nice in red, and yes your bikes seem to be cream and understated...... maybe it is time for Ruby Red, this bike is beautiful enough to really compliment it........ decisions, decisions.
Love your handlebars and headlight, just wondering about the bars? Will you paint them black to avoid the extended section rusting? Chrome would be nice but maybe a little dear for us..... or maybe the cheaper coating? (cant remember if its called nickle plating or cadmium plating).
And im in love with your guards and emblem. They look great.
Love your handlebars and headlight, just wondering about the bars? Will you paint them black to avoid the extended section rusting? Chrome would be nice but maybe a little dear for us..... or maybe the cheaper coating? (cant remember if its called nickle plating or cadmium plating).
And im in love with your guards and emblem. They look great.
Steve you cant blame that on old age, i spend half my time workking on my bike looking for that part or nut that i just placed somewhere?????? I swear i put it down here somewhere LOL
Im loving the work you guys are doing. Keep it up
Chick magnet, eh? Been thinking about the red and whatever the color choice I know it needs to be Van Sickle paint tractor paint. I discovered it last summer first in black and liked how it covered without running at half the price of dupli-color auto paint. Then I tried the cream and it was just as durable and easy to work with... great gloss on it, too.
::: Van Sickle Paint Company ::: is the link to their photo gallery of mostly tractors, but the first shot is of a Lund boat in what I imagine a ruby red would look like. IH Red #455
::: Van Sickle Paint Company ::: is the link to their stock color chart. I see they also have a clear top coat which I'll have to try. Hope it's gas resistant.
I've thought about powder coat for the frame, but my understanding is you can't powder coat over body putty (epoxy) which means my dented up old fenders couldn't be done since they have a lot of JBWeld filler. So, I want durable paint I can easily touch up when it gets the inevitable scrape or scratch.
Back to the color. I've already painted the sidecar frame in cream. It looks nice, if now somewhat bland after considerations of ruby red. I could do the Hiawatha in two tone... the sidecar frame and wheel rims in cream and the bike in red with maybe cream pinstripes on the fenders...? Would that work,do you think? I needs help here.
Chick magnet, eh?
SB
::: Van Sickle Paint Company ::: is the link to their photo gallery of mostly tractors, but the first shot is of a Lund boat in what I imagine a ruby red would look like. IH Red #455
::: Van Sickle Paint Company ::: is the link to their stock color chart. I see they also have a clear top coat which I'll have to try. Hope it's gas resistant.
I've thought about powder coat for the frame, but my understanding is you can't powder coat over body putty (epoxy) which means my dented up old fenders couldn't be done since they have a lot of JBWeld filler. So, I want durable paint I can easily touch up when it gets the inevitable scrape or scratch.
Back to the color. I've already painted the sidecar frame in cream. It looks nice, if now somewhat bland after considerations of ruby red. I could do the Hiawatha in two tone... the sidecar frame and wheel rims in cream and the bike in red with maybe cream pinstripes on the fenders...? Would that work,do you think? I needs help here.
Chick magnet, eh?
SB
Thanks for the kind words, you guys.
Dan, finding the die for making up longer axles for the Worksman front wheel would be great. It is the down side to the Suzuki fork... needing an extra long axle. It's been kind of a hassle, but I've sure learned how there are many different axle diameters and thread sizes on old mopeds. Worksman wheel for Suzuki fork... must remember that. I'm glad to hear you're thinking about more mischief with another build using the 51 Schwinn cantilever frame. It is a great frame with enough room in there to use everything from an industrial four stroke to going vintage with something off the beaten path. The Suzuki fork does look great on that frame and wait til you feel the ride it gives... oh, boy. Would you use the copper tank we made if I brought it back? I have no plans for another build using it. You made it... want it? Anything else you need me to bring, let me know. Steve makes it sound like I have an endless supply of bike frames and stuff (my brother says the same), but it is getting to be slim pickings and more stuff will go. need another Schwinn ladies down tube? I can cut one for you.
I look forward to going for an autumn ride, seeing your new Worksman stretch all done up Dandy (get it, Dan dee. Har har) and eventually spending some Saturday mornings in the Tinsmith's shop once the weather turns phooey outside... fire up the wood stove and maybe the Hobart welder, too. Make some sparks... woohoo!
Hey to Jackie & the boys. Give those dogs a bone!
SB
Dan, finding the die for making up longer axles for the Worksman front wheel would be great. It is the down side to the Suzuki fork... needing an extra long axle. It's been kind of a hassle, but I've sure learned how there are many different axle diameters and thread sizes on old mopeds. Worksman wheel for Suzuki fork... must remember that. I'm glad to hear you're thinking about more mischief with another build using the 51 Schwinn cantilever frame. It is a great frame with enough room in there to use everything from an industrial four stroke to going vintage with something off the beaten path. The Suzuki fork does look great on that frame and wait til you feel the ride it gives... oh, boy. Would you use the copper tank we made if I brought it back? I have no plans for another build using it. You made it... want it? Anything else you need me to bring, let me know. Steve makes it sound like I have an endless supply of bike frames and stuff (my brother says the same), but it is getting to be slim pickings and more stuff will go. need another Schwinn ladies down tube? I can cut one for you.
I look forward to going for an autumn ride, seeing your new Worksman stretch all done up Dandy (get it, Dan dee. Har har) and eventually spending some Saturday mornings in the Tinsmith's shop once the weather turns phooey outside... fire up the wood stove and maybe the Hobart welder, too. Make some sparks... woohoo!
Hey to Jackie & the boys. Give those dogs a bone!
SB
Harry,
You asked about the handlebars and rust... what to do. I figure it is only going to be an inch or two beyond the reach of the grips. I don't want to paint the handlebars, but would consider painting the ground and welded part to fend off rust. I think what I'm going to do is add enough leather as a wrap to cover the ground part, using the same black elk hide I use on my grips and throttles. I can leave it plain leather and it will visually blend in to the grips, or maybe I'll do some traditional Indian bead work... just a few inches of glass beads forward of the grips as a nod to all things Indian. I still have beading needles, cream, red and black and many colors of beads. Might make a nice detail and another personal signature, making the bike more mine... another way of saying "Silverbear was here". I guess I'll know for sure what to do after I've done it.
SB
You asked about the handlebars and rust... what to do. I figure it is only going to be an inch or two beyond the reach of the grips. I don't want to paint the handlebars, but would consider painting the ground and welded part to fend off rust. I think what I'm going to do is add enough leather as a wrap to cover the ground part, using the same black elk hide I use on my grips and throttles. I can leave it plain leather and it will visually blend in to the grips, or maybe I'll do some traditional Indian bead work... just a few inches of glass beads forward of the grips as a nod to all things Indian. I still have beading needles, cream, red and black and many colors of beads. Might make a nice detail and another personal signature, making the bike more mine... another way of saying "Silverbear was here". I guess I'll know for sure what to do after I've done it.
SB
