Looking for advice (first bike build)

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Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
I recently put together my first motorized bike and I am really excited. However, I ran into trouble and I have joined this forum looking for help after finding some very insightful posts here that helped me with my build.

I installed all of the components onto my bike (66 cc flying horse silver angle fire kit and a stealth beach cruiser from bikeberry). I mixed a gallon of gas for the bike using a 16:1 ratio, as advised for the break-in period (have since learned since reading around this forum that that may be too rich). I then made sure the choke was set properly turned on the fuel and she cranked right up on the first try. I rode it around for about 15 minutes kind of getting a feel for it and checking things out. Then my chain popped off and the bike eventually stalled. I walked it home to make some adjustments. I found that a bolt on the chain tensioner was not tight and the wheel slipped down, causing the chain to come off. I got all that taken care of and went back to start it up again.

Well, I guess I never turned off the fuel, cause now it wont start and when I pulled out the spark plug, it was soaking wet. I remove the gas tank, turn the bike upside down and turn the wheel a couple of times to expel any excess fuel from the chamber. I also pat the plug with a cloth and removed the carb (basic carb from bikeberry) to check the pin and the float to make sure it was working (it seemed to be pretty saturated with fuel too, so I let it dry too). So, I slapped it all back together, checked the cdi connections, which had become loose and tried again. Still unable to start. I pulled the plug back out of the bike, removed the tank again, flipped it upside down again, connected the plug to the cap and spun the back tire with the clutch out to check for spark. I could find no spark.

It got late and I called it a night but my guess is that I fouled the plug by getting it soaking wet with gas. However, I am brand new to this motorized bike stuff and really feel kind of clueless. If a new spark plug does not fix it, where does that leave me?

If you made it this far, thanks in advance for taking the time to read through my issue.
 

Henshooter

New Member
Feb 10, 2014
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Melbourne au
Open up the float bowl on the carby ,you will see a brass tang that gets pushed on by the float to stop fuel flow ,check the small pin on this is aligned and in its correct place or the float mechanism will fail
Also while you have the bowl off check the jet isn't loose and if it is tighten it ( long brass cylinder in the centre of the float bowl)
From what I can tell there is a flooding issue somewhere so best to pull off the carby and strip it down completely
Check the float is empty of fuel ,small splits in the float compromise the float bowls shut off valve

Check the pin in the top of the carby and the slide ,are they free moving and clean?
Leaving the fuel on is a no no but it shouldn't cause major flooding in the chamber unless the float is damaged or not working correctly , even then leaving the fuel on could do this but over a way longer period than you have described .

IMHO it's one of two things either the brass tang is loose ,or the jet is loose ,I tend to believe it may be the later of the two

Give these options a go and keep us up to date on how it goes

Regards Henshooter

Edit : keep in mind when turning the bike upside down the float bowl is full of fuel ,as such some if not most of it may end up in the motor fouling the chamber and plug ,always remember to drain the carby via the small screw on the float bowl case ( small screw with red washer at the bottom of the carby) before you tip the motor to clear it ,not doing so will result in fuel from Ahole to breakfast
 
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Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Thanks for the advice. Pulled apart the carb and the air filter is soaking wet with fuel from the last time I turned it over without emptying the bowl of fuel. Got all the components aligned inside the carb and letting it dry out a bit. Spun the wheel a few times with clutch out and appears to be fairly clear of fuel.

Another issue I am noticing is that alot of info and vids show that you can release the clutch and spin the tire with the spark plug attached and held to the crank case to check for spark. I do this and get no spark with brand new plugs. I hope the CDI didnt fail... =(

Thanks again for your advice. Going to let everything dry a bit, put it back together and give it another go. Will get back to this post and keep it updated.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
It's hard to see your flooding issue damaging your electrical system. So I'm going to guess that a conductor has worked loose.

Re-check the wiring. Especially wiring from the magneto to the CDI. Also double check that spark plug wire. Is it seated in that CDI properly?
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
If the engine is spinning with the plug OUT of the engine, it takes some engines quite a few revs to show a visible spark. You have to spin it over fairly hard to see it.
One quick way to check without spinning the engine so fast is to hold the plug in your bare hand and touch the block while turning it over. It takes barely any engine speed to feel a tingle.
If it tingles, it sparks.
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
I wanted to stop by and thank everyone for their help so far. Ended up taking the fam out to dinner so I was not able to work on the bike any further today. Gunna pick it back up tomorrow. Hopefully taking the time to make sure the carb is pieced together right makes the difference and I get the tingle when I test it out tomorrow. =)
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Well, just tried flipping the bike over and rotating the tire, while holding the spark plug in my hand with it and my hand touching the block. Not feeling any tingle. The wires are all connected securely and the cdi feels pretty solid. Nothing feels loose. Have tried with multiple spark plugs. My guess is it is something to do with the cdi. Just dont understand why it would fail at the exact moment the chain popped off... Just want to ride this thing
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Yeah, it is the CDI. All of the metal components inside the spark plug boot have just fallen out of the boot the last time I removed the spark plug from the boot. I have read elsewhere that they are junk. Guess it is time to call up bikeberry and get a CDI replacement.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Let's take a look.
Did you wire the kill switch into the circuit? They have a bad reputation and can cause trouble. If you're using the kill switch, disconnect it from the circuit and try to start the engine.

The kit supplied spark plug boot, that black plastic thing is also a source of a lot of engine starting/running issues. Make sure the high voltage lead from the CDI is securely screwed into the connector inside the boot and that the metal contacts are making a good electrical connection to the top of the spark plug.
Better yet, replace the boot with a good automotive quality boot and metal connector from an auto parts store.

If you're using the kit spark plug it might not have a top cap on it. The new boot will require a plug with a cap. Lots of options for a plug but the most common is the NGK B6.

If you are turning the bike upside down it is a good bet that fuel in the carburetor is draining into the engine and causing flooding of the combustion chamber. A better way is to suspend the rear wheel off the floor and spinning it, or pedaling with the bike upright.

I know you said you checked the wiring but take a close look at the splices/connectors on the blue and black wire/kill switch. Those push-together connectores are not very good. We always recommend that those connections be soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing. The kit connectores should be discarded in favor of soldered connections.

The white wire, if your magneto has one, should be insulated and not allowed to touch any metal parts. Some newer engines are coming from the factory without that white wire. For all intents and purposes it is useless.

CDI failures are not common in spite of what you might read. It happens, but you need to eliminate all other factors before replacing parts.

Let us know what you find.

Tom
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Kill switch disconnected.

The metal components inside the boot fell out. I believe the boot might have been the issue all along.

I went out and purchased 2 NGK B6HS. Cap removed.

Initially, I was flooding the engine by doing that. Emptied the carb of fuel and removed it to let it dry. Removed spark plug, flipped the bike and rotated tire with clutch released to expel excess fuel from the chamber. Since then it has been dry and I am just trying to produce spark.

The wires appear to be stripped properly with wiring exposed, which has been soldered to the connectors. I compressed the connectors to make for a tighter fit between the male and female connections.

I had read that the white wire did not need to be connected but I did not insulate it and it is very capable of coming into contact with metal. This may also be a source of problems. I will wrap it with electrical tape.

Thank you very much for your response. Going to pick up a new boot the next chance I have and give that a try. I will get back to you guys.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
If the plug wire is long enough to strip back about 3/4 inch you can wrap it around the threads of the plug then screw a brass plug end down on it to keep it in place, this will let you test it.
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Got a new NGK boot installed and am still not getting spark. Is it possible that something messed up with the magneto when the chain popped off? Really nearing the end of my rope here and just considering paying a small engine repair shop to diagnose this for me....
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Got a multimeter and set it to 2k.

CDI reads .519-.520

Magneto does not even move the meter.

Within warranty and got my rma#. Sending it back in tomorrow and getting a new one shipped to me.

I read that the ohms for the CDI should be between 6-8 but the customer service agent I spoke with on the phone said it should be good. Still concerned about that.

Just wanted to update you guys.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Keep us informed.
If you saw no reading on your meter when checking the magneteo coil that is probably the culprit. Let us know what happens with a new coil.

Tom
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
So I got the magneto in and it fired right up!! However, it was sputtering and I pulled it over to look at everything. After letting the engine cool I noticed there was a couple drops of gas that had come out of the muffler but there was another larger puddle further back. I followed the gas and see that it is originating right at the rear mount where the screw is and what appears to be a gasket.... what should I do?
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
Start by cleaning all the fuel off the engine you can, since no fuel mixture flows through the clutch shaft area it probably is leaking foward of there. I would start it up and stop and watch for a leak, don't just let it idle give it a little throttle to build some pressure in the crankcase. You should be able to find it, good luck. Or it could be leaking from the carburetor and running down the back of the engine.
 
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Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
Excellent! Thank you! It was leaking from the carb. There were a couple of screws that I apparently neglected to fully tighten.

Now I need to figure out why it is 4 stroking. I followed another guide that said to mix the fuel 16:1 on the break-in. I have since read that this may be to rich. Would that cause the sputtery 4 stroking behavior? Should I empty the tank and mix up a 20:1? I did move the c clamp to the leanest notch and it still behaves the same. The plug was black when I pulled it. Thanks so much for your help guys.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
I break new engines in at 24/1 with good oil, I run Lucas simi synthetic so that's plenty of oil. Try the fuel mixture first then start tuning the carb, remember it helps to change one thing at a time ,that way you will know if what you just did helped or not.
 

Symbyot

New Member
Mar 11, 2014
24
0
0
Texas
I'm using Lucus as well. Ok, cool. Will get a fresh gallon of 93 and try a leaner mix. Cant wait to get off work and play with the bike. Have a victor hairpin seat that is being delivered today as well. =)