Hello fello Motorized Bicyclists

welcome, heres some links to some bikes under 100$

lot of people like thesehttp://www.walmart.com/ip/Huffy-Cranbrook-26-Men-s-Bike-Bronze/19855931

i like this onehttp://www.target.com/p/magna-men-s-rip-curl-26-cruiser-bike-blue/-/A-13823672#?lnk=sc_qi_detaillink

welcome to the forum and im sorry to hear about your court problems im in the same boat here in NY it sucks alot but you get through it.

i was looking at your web site its a nice site but some of your information is a little off and needs tweaking and i know thatwe can help you post the correct info so that you have the best information possible for your customers

the oil mix for 2 strokes you took out of the manual is outdated never run at 16:1 its to much oil even for break in most of us are 20-25:1 for break in then around 35:1 for normal running

there are a few other small things but that is the important one i noticed

Hi Troy, welcome!

First off, glad to have you with us! Sucks to hear that you were framed and lost your license though no fault of your own, that stinks

I checked out your website, while it looks like it is still a work in progress I like the way you explained the difference between the 2 and 4 strokes, very nice! Your recommendation of breaking in at 16:1 and regular use at 20:1 is way too much oil for modern 2 stroke oils. A lot of us here are breaking in at 24:1 or 32:1 and ending up with 32:1 - 40:1 after break-in. I used 100:1 with Opti-2, but then my motor just blew up, lol.

And on your warranties page, you might want to rethink the use of the word "obstain"

$325 seems loooooow, but if you are happy with that profit, you are still making a little cash. That is for a China Girl, though, I assume. For a 4 stroke kit you are going to be losing money right off the bat.

Good luck! Also, if you are going to build on cruiser frames with just rear coaster brakes, you might want to add a cheap front caliper brake as an option. The coaster brakes make hauling a bike down from 30+ take quite some distance and if the pedal chain breaks or gets thrown, you are now without a brake.

rear V brakes are a good choice with the dual pull lever if you set your brakes up right.(front one grabs slower than the rear so you dont get thrown)

Invest in a very good release of liability form, cause the first guy who crashes will come after you

found this thread on locking gas cap. but its out of stock. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=1799

I read somewhere that you should run the motors real hard during break in to help the piston rings seat and wear properly, otherwise they dont expand properly and end up leaking.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Being that he's one against a million in his ideas, I'll be testing some of his methods soon though. Particularly the break in one, I babied this bike slightly when I first ran it (1/4 gallon babied, then the last half tank I went WOT). But I havent had any issues with running them hard to start with either.

mew905 said:

I read somewhere that you should run the motors real hard during break in to help the piston rings seat and wear properly, otherwise they dont expand properly and end up leaking.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Being that he's one against a million in his ideas, I'll be testing some of his methods soon though. Particularly the break in one, I babied this bike slightly when I first ran it (1/4 gallon babied, then the last half tank I went WOT). But I havent had any issues with running them hard to start with either.

Click to expand...

Actually he is one of many that can prove it. Close tolerance modern engines break in best with plenty of cylinder pressure at higher piston speeds.

Think about every new chainsaw sold in the past two decades. Right out of the box, filled with pre-mix... and run wide open & full load in short bursts. Same for every string trimmer. If Stihl, Poulan or Echo needed 20 hours of light duty break in they would have warranty claims in the 75% of sales range.

At low piston speeds & pressures (idle) the rings run on tension. At high loads, the cylinder pressure forces them outward. If you run the engine at high speed with light loads, the rings don't seal well, and take a long time to seat.

With the chinese 2 strokes, a bore that is significantly out of round needs to wear some metal off of the rings in place to get to a good seal all the way around. If the bore gets too polished in the high spots, it will quit re-shaping the rings.

When I worked for Homelite, we took a new cylinder for a 25cc engine, and put it in a big vise. We squeezed it out of round to the point that the piston was sticky. Then we sanded the piston to fit the oval bore. New rings, & slapped it together on one of the water pumps from the return pile, filled it with Exact-Mix @ 50:1 & fired it up. It ran through the first tank of fuel pumping water & picking up rpm's. By the end of the second tank of fuel it was exceeding the performance metric for both the pump & engine. We got bored after the 4th tank of gas, and some manager took it home to empty a livestock tank - we never saw it again.

B.