briggs 3.5 HP stretched/chopped/lowered murray cruiser
- Thread starter gbginger
- Start date
Is this similar to the carb you have and what filter/filter box if necessary is to be used.
Wondering of the carb with airfilter together shown in Amazon link, it there an airfilter box that is also needed to fit the two (carb to airfilter)? I'm afraid it needs extra parts to put it all together and want to know what if so.
The second Amazon link shows a filter box with airfilter foam type also includes the plate with screws so I know it connects to the carb. This airfilter is costing more, was wondering if the paper one above bundled price is all including what is necessary?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I0HD62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2IXU15OD0L2B6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BLISQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2X7JNP7ZHN45F
Another picture from an ebay seller shows what I guess is the foam type filter and shows the plate and all hardware, item and also shipping extra.
Wondering of the carb with airfilter together shown in Amazon link, it there an airfilter box that is also needed to fit the two (carb to airfilter)? I'm afraid it needs extra parts to put it all together and want to know what if so.
The second Amazon link shows a filter box with airfilter foam type also includes the plate with screws so I know it connects to the carb. This airfilter is costing more, was wondering if the paper one above bundled price is all including what is necessary?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I0HD62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2IXU15OD0L2B6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BLISQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2X7JNP7ZHN45F
Another picture from an ebay seller shows what I guess is the foam type filter and shows the plate and all hardware, item and also shipping extra.
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No seperate air box needed they bolt right on and thats all there is to it. ......Curt
I found a picture of the airfilter alone. Both top and bottom sides show metal no holes to mount. The bottom is black rubber and does not show how it would connect either. Another picture I found of parts show backing plate and an encasement that would fit this airfilter though. Then I see the filter just is put inside and is not bolted, but a backing plate and box to house the airfilter I think is needed no matter what.
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Have you thought about using a standard NT bicycle carb? The briggs 3.5 will run great with the NT! Simple, reliable, easy to hook a throttle to it and cheap! Most stationary engine based designs (like all stock briggs etc) are not really designed for constant throttling but rather for a steady speed set by the governor. Using a NT carburetor gives you much better throttle response compared to almost any briggs based design and is FAR more reliable and easier to tune.
Works just as good on the 5hp Briggs, both flathead and OHV engines.
Works just as good on the 5hp Briggs, both flathead and OHV engines.
That is right, so the Tecumseh clone has two needle adjust screws. It is meant to have the engine idle. See post 23 second picture attached. If I order and find out that the filter needs extra parts to attach to Tecumseh clone carb, not only will I have to get the part and wait, but extra cost.
I am already considering possibly a whole different engine all working.
Anyway where does the airfilter alone gonna be able to attach to the far side in the picture of the Tecumseh clone carb? The throat and holes are tapped for screws in the carb intake. I can't see how at all the filter by itself can attach.
What I think Amazon and others are having both bundled for is those who already have a Tecumseh Engine with Tecumseh Carb and are replacing the carb, so why not get a new airfilter. I am such that I am mixing brands and do not have the backing plate or the filter housing, so it means more cost. When I'm done I have already paid half the cost of a new HF 99cc on sale.
I am handy at making parts fit by modding other parts, but I have a better thought, for double the cost a new whole engine complete.
I am already considering possibly a whole different engine all working.
Anyway where does the airfilter alone gonna be able to attach to the far side in the picture of the Tecumseh clone carb? The throat and holes are tapped for screws in the carb intake. I can't see how at all the filter by itself can attach.
What I think Amazon and others are having both bundled for is those who already have a Tecumseh Engine with Tecumseh Carb and are replacing the carb, so why not get a new airfilter. I am such that I am mixing brands and do not have the backing plate or the filter housing, so it means more cost. When I'm done I have already paid half the cost of a new HF 99cc on sale.
I am handy at making parts fit by modding other parts, but I have a better thought, for double the cost a new whole engine complete.
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sorry i haven't been more help. i don't have an air filter yet. and I'm moving super slow on this project. i was just going to fab something up for an air filter.. i really haven't put much thought into a lot just getting it done as i move along.
Not a problem, I have the air filter and housing now and tomorrow the carb to see if they fit together. If not I'll make it work anyway. I already have made the connection to the carb to an angle manifold that was what was lying around with an adapter. Second adapter added to it so the the float bowl is level. I'd ran the bike fine with those adapters. I'll be able to reuse all the adapters, but might need some I'll make if needed. An NT carb may have been a way for me, but my carb to arrive is the Oregon one that is a clone Tecumseh with two adjustment screws. It is very much looking like an easy swap.
My adjusting the intake valve now has more compression and the engine has more power. It being out of adjustment from a part out at the San Jose Flea Market years ago had me thinking the Briggs carb was fine with idling. So recently I find out, the Briggs new cheap clone can't idle anymore unless de-tuned. The Tecumseh Clone should be fine. Now ready to plow through mud!
Thanks
MT
PS I'll see how they fit or not and report back
Found the Ebay same AirFilter and All Housing Parts a bit cheaper than Amazon all totaled with shipping
This one has a foam filter you oil and squeeze excess out - not shown in picture.
A Stens 100-008 Paper Air Filter also can be used instead of the foam filter, so I'll test out when I get that far which may be better.
From Motownusa the extra paper filter
http://www.amazon.com/Stens-100-008...OL8M/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A219HML0CVO0HP
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Tec...ir-/400798606455?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
My adjusting the intake valve now has more compression and the engine has more power. It being out of adjustment from a part out at the San Jose Flea Market years ago had me thinking the Briggs carb was fine with idling. So recently I find out, the Briggs new cheap clone can't idle anymore unless de-tuned. The Tecumseh Clone should be fine. Now ready to plow through mud!
Thanks
MT
PS I'll see how they fit or not and report back
Found the Ebay same AirFilter and All Housing Parts a bit cheaper than Amazon all totaled with shipping
This one has a foam filter you oil and squeeze excess out - not shown in picture.
A Stens 100-008 Paper Air Filter also can be used instead of the foam filter, so I'll test out when I get that far which may be better.
From Motownusa the extra paper filter
http://www.amazon.com/Stens-100-008...OL8M/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A219HML0CVO0HP
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Tec...ir-/400798606455?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
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On the foam filters i just use the per-mixed gas and squeeze the excess,and it leves just a small amount of oil,as not to get to much.
It puzzels me as to why you would get a none ajustable carb when you can get a ajustable one? the only way to change the jetting is to drill or change the jet..............Curt
It puzzels me as to why you would get a none ajustable carb when you can get a ajustable one? the only way to change the jetting is to drill or change the jet..............Curt
Curt, I originally got the Briggs non-adjustable carb I had not considered that idling issue more than 3 years ago.
It only came to light that I found out it was idling and then ceased to idle when I adjusted the intake valve. I could put it back to being not set right by cutting the seat to get less gap again, but that would not make sense because it also was wetting the air filter. Now not only is the kept dry, but increased compression like the way it should have been from the get go. An engine for 10 dollars used at the Flea Market, well was it a good deal.... anyway I learned in the process and will be happy to be riding again.
It was not known for a long time that the air filter was being weted by gas, as the original filter I used was an oil bath type with vacu-ject carb an original Briggs part I had lying around. How would you notice it get a gas spray the wrong direction toward a oil bath filter? You would not, and I did not know until I got a gravity feed carb that used foam or paper filters.
The foam and paper filter clog with wet gas due to wrong intake valve timing. With timing fixed I found I needed a carb that does have idle screw.
Now I have a Tecumseh Clone Carb with all the adjustment screws and a filter housing and all and it fits. The mounting is all the same as the Briggs. Only I have to get the throttle hooked up and see where one carb is ccw for throttle and cw for the other. I'll find it an easy enough fix to just use the major return spring and cable on opposite sides. Note this Tecumseh Clone carb has a spring but too weak a spring for the twist grip throttle to return.
MT
All total including tax and shipping about $40 for the carb and filter housing (that is without the paper filter) that is like $5 more if you want it.
Last picture is of the Briggs carb without adjustments, I'll swap out. It is just to show that the mounting holes to the engine intake and the gasket from the Tecumseh carb are the same!
It only came to light that I found out it was idling and then ceased to idle when I adjusted the intake valve. I could put it back to being not set right by cutting the seat to get less gap again, but that would not make sense because it also was wetting the air filter. Now not only is the kept dry, but increased compression like the way it should have been from the get go. An engine for 10 dollars used at the Flea Market, well was it a good deal.... anyway I learned in the process and will be happy to be riding again.
It was not known for a long time that the air filter was being weted by gas, as the original filter I used was an oil bath type with vacu-ject carb an original Briggs part I had lying around. How would you notice it get a gas spray the wrong direction toward a oil bath filter? You would not, and I did not know until I got a gravity feed carb that used foam or paper filters.
The foam and paper filter clog with wet gas due to wrong intake valve timing. With timing fixed I found I needed a carb that does have idle screw.
Now I have a Tecumseh Clone Carb with all the adjustment screws and a filter housing and all and it fits. The mounting is all the same as the Briggs. Only I have to get the throttle hooked up and see where one carb is ccw for throttle and cw for the other. I'll find it an easy enough fix to just use the major return spring and cable on opposite sides. Note this Tecumseh Clone carb has a spring but too weak a spring for the twist grip throttle to return.
MT
All total including tax and shipping about $40 for the carb and filter housing (that is without the paper filter) that is like $5 more if you want it.
Last picture is of the Briggs carb without adjustments, I'll swap out. It is just to show that the mounting holes to the engine intake and the gasket from the Tecumseh carb are the same!
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I got to fixing the problem with idle, was that the key of the flywheel was distorted a bit from kick back when the valve out out of adjustment. Anyway I can keep the carb for just 18 buck for another project. The no adjustment carb of Briggs work again fine and no oil or fuel spitting back at the air filter. I am still going to see if the Tecumseh clone carb works any better, but that would mean some more work on getting throttle cable hooked up. I've got a number of engine to keep these and or have as spares.
Post 184 and 185 on Page 19 of my thread Re: Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=590346#post590346
MT
Post 184 and 185 on Page 19 of my thread Re: Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=590346#post590346
MT
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Nice! I looked at some of the pictures, I guess while in progress. That Vacu-jet Briggs carb with the integral tank removed and the glass fuel filter beneath, did it run the engine like that at any time. I know you have a motorcycle type carb on it now.
I ask since I though of a gravity feed on a Vacu-jet, but I thought a bowl and float for metered fuel was necessary. It got to finding a cheap carb under 20 bucks gravity feed sufficed on my 3hp Briggs build.
Your bike frame where the engine sits was it not modified and what is it? The engine fits without any tilt to clear which I could not do on my JC Penny Foremost. The spark plug is close to the frame, but no biggie. Only thing I did was use RTV to make a plug boot on the existing old high tension lead. It jams between the plug tip and the frame bar.
Your Briggs is very very nice, the twin tanks and I guess fuel valves to switch.
I really enjoy DIY builds!
MT
I ask since I though of a gravity feed on a Vacu-jet, but I thought a bowl and float for metered fuel was necessary. It got to finding a cheap carb under 20 bucks gravity feed sufficed on my 3hp Briggs build.
Your bike frame where the engine sits was it not modified and what is it? The engine fits without any tilt to clear which I could not do on my JC Penny Foremost. The spark plug is close to the frame, but no biggie. Only thing I did was use RTV to make a plug boot on the existing old high tension lead. It jams between the plug tip and the frame bar.
Your Briggs is very very nice, the twin tanks and I guess fuel valves to switch.
I really enjoy DIY builds!
MT
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Slowest build thread ever I know. Anyways. Put the new rims on to see what it's going to look like. 12 gauge spokes. Sturmey archer 90 mm drum and 3 speed in the rear 
Looks good! There's a lot of competition here for longest build ever. Fasteddy & I are neck and neck with our tri-car builds at about four years now... heading into the final year's home stretch.
SB
SB
Yes 26". Also heated up and bent the frame to make room for the motor. I wanted it sit straight so this is what I had to do with what I had to work worth 
