Back wheel moves, lots of effort to do it

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MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
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California
Hey guys, so I put on my motor today for the first time, but now the back wheel barely moves.
I flipped my bike upside down and I can pedal, but it takes lots of effort.

Is this normal? My chain is lined up fine, here's a video of me pushing the bike.
(Sometimes the wheel just skids), and me attempting to spin the sprocket with the tool.

As you can see it's seems to be a stop-go-stop kind of thing, it moves fine for a 3rd of a second, then I have to push hard for a bit, then moves fine again, etc/repeat.

I took the chain off and then it begins to spin just fine.

Thanks guys!
 
2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Your clutch is engaged. You'll have to install the chain and the clutch actuator cover then the clutch lever and cable and adjust the cable to disengage the clutch.
Without doing that you are turning the crankshaft and the piston is coming up against compression. That's the "stop" you're feeling.

Tom
 
MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

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Jun 30, 2012
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California
Okay so I did what you said, but when I disenganged the clutch, nothing changed
I uninstalled and reinstalled everything twice, and it never worked :(

It might be something wrong with the way I installed the sprocket cover?
(Earlier, the screws were stuck, so I had to really drill into the sprocket cover, and now it's a bit "Ghetto". I ordered a new one, hopefully that will solve the problem)

But any suggestions as to what else might fix this?

Ps. Is the clutch arm supposed to only move from about 6'o'clock to 3'o'clock? https://www.dropbox.com/s/p4666quopdr08cg/20130119_164900.mp4
 
2door

2door

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Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
The clutch actuating arm should only require about an inch to an inch and a half of travel to disengage the clutch. If the clutch doesn't disengage (release) with that much travel your clutch pads might be stuck. This is common with new engines. DO NOT start messing with the flower nut on the right side until you have tried a couple of other things. Loosening the flower nut will require a complete clutch adjustment. It was probably set right at the factory and unles you understand the function of it you will have a bigger problem that you do now.

First try this: Remove the clutch actuating cover exposing the pin protruding from the center of the engine drive sprocket. With a piece of wood and a hammer or a plastic headed hammer, give that pin a couple of solid whacks. This will sometimes free the stuck pads. If that fails you can simply roll the bike forward, clutch lever on the handlebar squeezed and that will also sometimes break the pads loose.

You must have the clutch cable adjusted properly. You should have little to no slack between the end of the cable and the clutch actuating arm on the engine with the handlebar lever in the unsqueezed position. Too much slack there will not allow the clutch to disengage.

Tom
 
MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

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Jun 30, 2012
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California
Hey so I wasn't sure if you meant to hit it from the side like this, or straight on.
Also how would I know if I am successful in knocking out the pads?

(The flower nut is on the other side of the motor right? If it is, I haven't touched it)
 
Last edited:
2door

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Hit it as if you were trying to drive it in deeper. Not sure a rubber mallet will work. It needs a solid blow. Use a metal hammer with a piece of wood to protect the pin from damage, or a plastic headed hammer.

Do not strike it from the side. You could bend it. Keep in mind there is a ball bearing in the sprocket behind that pin. They should both be lubricated with bearing grease as well as the cam the pin contacts inside the aluminum clutch actuator cover.

Tom
 
crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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USA
first thing to do is to remove the spark plug - if this makes it roll freely, then you look at the clutch
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
MysterySandwich said:
It might be something wrong with the way I installed the sprocket cover?
(Earlier, the screws were stuck, so I had to really drill into the sprocket cover, and now it's a bit "Ghetto". I ordered a new one, hopefully that will solve the problem)

But any suggestions as to what else might fix this?
Click to expand...
All 3 screws on the clutch gear cover need to be intact including the nut on the back of the top right to keep it from failing. You are transferring all of the torque you are generating from the long pull clutch lever to a rod with a notch to push a pin against the spring on the other side of the motor keeping the pads engaged.

In real movement that is only 1/4" on the rod that moves the actual clutch side.

Your clutch lever should be hard to pull in.
Chances are your "Ghetto" work on the cover screws is the culpret but it is easy to check.

Remove your right cover and pull in your clutch lever.
Does the round silver plate move out?

If not the problem is on the left side that being cable tension, the cover and arm assembly, etc.

If the silver disc does move out at little however the problem could just be dried grease in the transfer shaft bearing acting like an engaged clutch plate, this is common with kits that have set in boxes on shore for years.

I have a tutorial about how to break that free and adjust the flower nut here somewhere but I'd look at the problem being the left side.
 
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