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GoldenMotor.com

whitefiretiger

New Member
Jun 16, 2012
17
0
0
Nebraska, USA
Ok so I got a motor kit given to me (used less than a month) and I don't know what size it is. I was told that the 48cc and 66cc have different head bolt spacing (1.75" in square and 2.5" X measured center to center of bolts) and should be able to identify it that way... Or do I need to pull the head and measure the piston diameter to find out?

So far I'm mostly happy with my bike. I pit the kit on a 2005 Schwinn Typhoon cruiser and total weight of bike/kit is about 60lbs... I'm 210lbs and with my gps showed a top speed of 27.2mph and accelerates quite well but when Im at wot and nearing top speed it starts 4 cycling which I beleave is caused by rich condition. I already cut about 1.5" off the stinger from the inside of the muffler cap (still just over 2" long) and drilled a 3/8" hole in the air box straight across from the carb. Which seemed to help a little. Oh my elevation is 1189.
Should I open the air box more to attempt to reduce the 4cycling more? And Or maybe miss with the muffler more (was thinking about cutting the stinger to just below the baffle and maybe drilling another hole or two in the baffle plate.)

I'm also wanting to try to hit the legal limit of 30mph (really would like to hit 35mph as most roads are 35) but I'm wondering if there's some simple/cheapish mods I can do to hit my goal. I was thinking about getting the head machined down a bit ( maybe .01-.02) to bump the compression and see if that gets me any closer to my goal. Is this a good idea?

A guy here in town suggested switching my 44t rear sprocket to 39 or 40t to get closer to 30mph bit said ill lose in the low end and to get a shop to extend the exhaust header a few inches to even it out. Would this work?

The fuel shutoff on the tank seems to leak at the lever even when the screws are tight. Think this is mainly in the off position. Do I need a new one? Or is there a way to fix this

As a final note I'm running slicks on my bike now as I had a top speed of 24.8mph on the old cruiser tires.

Thanks White Fire Tiger
 

wan37

Member
May 29, 2011
354
4
18
Illinois
On the fuel valve put some white plumbers tape on the threads and then screw it in.The sprocket and sbp muffler would be the way to go.They also make a performance head for these things.Hope this answer some of your questions.
 
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whitefiretiger

New Member
Jun 16, 2012
17
0
0
Nebraska, USA
wan37 said:
On the fuel valve put some white plumbers tape on the threads and then screw it in.The sprocket and sbp muffler would be the way to go.They also make a performance head for these things.Hope this answer some of your questions.
It's not the threads of the fuel valve leaking; its the lever area. I have yellow fuel line thread tape on the threads.

I know where to find the sprocket but where do I get the sbp muffler?

Is like to get a performance head but Idk my motor size.
 

Hoze513

New Member
Nov 24, 2011
262
0
0
42
Joliet, illinois
It is ( Sick Bike Parts. com ). There is other performance mufflers, But sicks is a good choice.
There is other stuff you can do to your engine.
 

donphantasmo

Member
Oct 3, 2010
372
11
18
Middleburg, FL
SBP has a lot of performance upgrades. You can take your head off, get a plate of glass and some sandpaper, and work in a circular motion. go clockwise then counter clockwise. file about .01 to .02 off. Not too much where you are hearing metal against metal. I just took my head gasket off. I will try to mill some off, install my head gasket, and reinstall the head on. That will up the compression up a bit.
I got the ManicMechanic hub adapter, and I got the 40 tooth sprocket. It increases the top end, but you might have to pedal assist in the first 1-5 MPH.
And there should be a plate on your motor that identifies your motor and size. Measure your piston. The bore and stroke of an 80cc is 47x38mm. If it's less then 47, it's the 49cc.
Hope that helps. Lemme know if you need anything.
 

whitefiretiger

New Member
Jun 16, 2012
17
0
0
Nebraska, USA
Ok so today was good news followed by realy bad news.

Good :
Topped out at 29.3mph on flat ground.
This was after going ngk from champion plug.
Also figured out my motor is 66cc.

The BAD:
The seat tube motor mount bolt (left side) broke in half in heavy traffic at wot.

It's flush with the motor is there any way to fix this or is my baby done for?
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Just one of a few methods avaliable:
1. Remove engine from bike.
2. Take your time and carefully center punch the broken stud as close to the exact center as you can.
3. Slowly and carefully drill the stud with a left hand drill bit of an appropriate size. Take care that you drill straight and true down the center of the stud. You don't want it to wander off the stud or go in crooked and dig into the threads in the case. If you are lucky the bit will eventually grab the stud and back it out of the case. There really is no need to go any further in than 1/2 inch or so.
4. If you are not so lucky you can try an easy out in the now drilled hole. I recommend a spiraled type over the cheaper square fluted ones.

If all else fails, you can build up a custom rear mount.
AlFisherman is really good at making custom repair mounts. He may be able to give you some tips if it gets down to this.
 

donphantasmo

Member
Oct 3, 2010
372
11
18
Middleburg, FL
Yep, Easy out is the way to go. Once you get it out, either use your existing thread, or get tap a new one.

Either way, you seem to have enough knowledge to know what to do. These motors are pretty easy. Just take it off the bike, and you'll probably figure out what needs to be done..
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
One leading cause it the super cheapo lame metal that the factory used to make the studs out of. Upgrading all the fasteners is a good idea.
The other leading cause is inadequately mated mounts.
They both, front and rear, must fit flush to the frame tubes with no gaps anywhere.
It is very common to carefully hand file or sand the curvature of the mounts for a perfect fit to the frame tube size.
These kits are not really a "slap it in and ride" sort of kit.
They all need some customizing to fit just right. Every once in a while this means making your own mounts and keeping the kit mounts as paper weights. It depends on what all needs to be done.