That was a Close one

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dropleg

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Jul 24, 2011
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ok, so i replaced the cylinder jug on my bike. I replaced it because my muffler threads were stripped. Well ive been ridding it around a lot lately and im really enjoying my bike. Its now reliable and i feel comfortable taking it anywhere. Anyways i was starting to notice that the paint on my muffler was coming off. not only that but i started seeing some rust(its been raining here). So I went ahead and took the muffler off and painted it with some BBQ paint. Well when i was real attaching the allen head screws i stripped a little bit of my threads again, enough to where it would not tighten all the way. I take off the lock washer and screw it in further. Screws in there nice and tight. I drove my bike around for a few miles at varying speeds. Screw is still in there nice and tight.

I've come to the conclusion that i should never ever take my muffler off. It feels like the Allen head screw is fine and i don't need a lock washer. Does anyone known or have experience with this. The screw seems to be staying and i just drove it really hard for maybe 3 miles. Am i good?

I dont have the ability to put in a coil or re thread it. I don't have a drill press and i don't know anyone who does. I don't have a garage or work area. I'm a college student who just got out of the army living in a small duplex OK.

Sorry, but everyone just assumes u have the means to fix things their way.
 
biknut

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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dropleg said:
ok,

I've come to the conclusion that i should never ever take my muffler off. It feels like the Allen head screw is fine and i don't need a lock washer. Does anyone known or have experience with this. The screw seems to be staying and i just drove it really hard for maybe 3 miles. Am i good?
Click to expand...
The stock exhausts are very problematic. If yours is now hanging by 2 or 3 threads it's about 100% it will fail soon.

If you were capable of installing a new cylinder, you can install a helicoil. You don't need a drill press, only an electric drill, a tap, and a helicoil. I installed one on an exhaust stud without removing the motor, and it took about 5 minutes. This kind of repair can easily be done in a parking lot.

The easiest way to prevent future failures of the exhaust, is to clamp the other end of the muffler to the frame. If not you better stay away from high RPMs. Good luck.
 
Al.Fisherman

Al.Fisherman

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Sep 9, 2009
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I myself would do away with the screws and go to a stud, washer and a lock nut. This way you know that the stud is bottomed out. I use red locktite, some use a different color (color determines how it sets). Also don't over tighten the lock nuts, 50 to 60 INCH pounds is recommended for 6mm hardware. That is how mine are installed and hasn't loosen up since 3/2009
 
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dropleg

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Jul 24, 2011
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based on the screw it looks like i only killed 2 threads. I am remaining hopeful. Ill try the Helicoil if it comes off but i want to avoid that option. I might throw on some thread locker. redlock tight should do the trick
 
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dropleg

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Jul 24, 2011
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ok so redlocktight has been applied. Hope its stays. guess im never taking off the muffler. My only concern is heat. Im not sure how the red stuff will handle in the engine threads.
 
wayne z

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
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Yeah, heat is what you use to loosten red locktite when dissasembly is probleatic.

If ya wanna fix it before it gives out, take the jug off and drill the holes deeper, all the way into the cyl stud hole. Then tap the original threads until the tap bottoms out in the cyl stud hole. Then assemble.
Use a stud long enough to bottom against the cyl stud.

Don't be ham fisted when tightening. Choke up close on the wrenches and you will have a better feel for tightness without excessive leverage from holding the wrench or ratchet at the end of the handle.

I've never had to do this, another member posted this re-threading tecnique.
 
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wayne z

wayne z

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Dec 5, 2010
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The red locktite won't be very effective on the exhaust port, too much heat .Heat is used to loosen red locktite.

I have had good luck re-using gaskets. If the cyl is removed carefully and the sticky spots are chased carefully with a knife, most times they come off intact, unless it was assembled with gasket sealer on both sides.

The head gasket can be re-used one time, by flipping it over. When it is compressed a slight bevel is mashed into it, so turn it over and the bevel will be compressed the other way,giving a good seal. I've done this on several HT and ultralight engines and never had one leak.

You should at least replace the bolts with bottomed out studs and use some type of muffler support bracket before you have a problem. Then you may never have it strip out.
2 or 3 threads isn't enough in aluminum, The exhaust needs to be snugged down a few times as you get some miles, and as is is now, it will prolly strip when you try to re-tighten.
 
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wayne z

wayne z

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Dec 5, 2010
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You can go to local hdw store and buy a piece of 1/16" x 1" plated steel stock. Cut an appropiate length of this, and use a vise or steel table edge ect and hammer to bend the ends over about 1" from ends to angles that will fit flat against the muffler and bike frame, and use worm clamps around the muff and frame to fasten the strap.
 
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dropleg

New Member
Jul 24, 2011
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United States
oh yeah, my bike has a strange idle problem. It idles fine but... i have to have the idle screw in all the way, with the spring on of course. The throttle cable is not tight. I don't think there are any air leaks. Is it possible the idle screw is too short??? If i unscrew it anymore it gets weaker and dies
 
wayne z

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
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I have built a couple of these that had the same issue with the idle screw bottomed out to barely keep idle.
After a couple tanks of gas, they break in some and idle and run better at all speeds.
 
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