The drive belt on my q-matic clutch from max torque has frayed/separated and needs to be replaced. I have found a replacement of the same size, but not to save my life can I get the mount for the rear pulley off to get the new belt on. I can't to find a guide on how to do this online anywhere, and in fact only find mentions of how reliable and maintenance-free these things are. This belt frayed after 822 miles, how on earth do I replace it?
Switching belt on qmatic... help.
- Thread starter Scylen
- Start date
While I have not done this yet to my EZM, I have read that you need to release the tensioner spring from the arm and then remove the engine pulley.
Install the new belt around both pulleys then install the engine pulley back onto the engine shaft, then re hook the tensioner spring onto the tensioner arm.
I am betting that more experienced EZM owners will see this and hopefully give an easier method.
scotto-?
AzBill?
Quenton?
EveryoneelsethatIforgot?
Install the new belt around both pulleys then install the engine pulley back onto the engine shaft, then re hook the tensioner spring onto the tensioner arm.
I am betting that more experienced EZM owners will see this and hopefully give an easier method.
scotto-?
AzBill?
Quenton?
EveryoneelsethatIforgot?
NunyaBidness: Have already examined the belt and found what I'm guessing is a fault in the molding in rubber teeth part of the belt. The fiber backing is fine and I am further convinced this was just a bad spot in the molding by the fact that the rest of the belt seems fine, just that one spot failed. The pulleys are perfectly straight/clean and the alignment is fine.
GearNut: Thanks for the thoughts, but the issue I'm having is getting the belt onto the rear pulley. I'm sure I can remove enough tension to get the belt over the front one, the problem is that the mounting bracket (correct term?) that holds the pulley side of the shaft is too close to the pulley itself to get the belt over it. It seems almost as if I could tap the end of the shaft with a tack hammer or something and it would pop out, but there's a bearing in there and when in the past I have hit things with hammers the results have not always lived up to my expectations. It might just be some grit/corrosion holding it in there, but if someone has switched out this belt before I'd sure like to know the right way to do it.
GearNut: Thanks for the thoughts, but the issue I'm having is getting the belt onto the rear pulley. I'm sure I can remove enough tension to get the belt over the front one, the problem is that the mounting bracket (correct term?) that holds the pulley side of the shaft is too close to the pulley itself to get the belt over it. It seems almost as if I could tap the end of the shaft with a tack hammer or something and it would pop out, but there's a bearing in there and when in the past I have hit things with hammers the results have not always lived up to my expectations. It might just be some grit/corrosion holding it in there, but if someone has switched out this belt before I'd sure like to know the right way to do it.
Sorry that I did not say it before, but as the drive shaft passes into the outer support plate, it prevents any means of installing the belt over the rear pulley.
I assumed (bad on my part) that you figured this out, sorry.
You need to remove the outer support bracket to get the belt onto the rear
pulley.
Remove the rear wheel drive chain first to relieve any pressure off of the drive shaft. You don't want the inside bearing receiving a load that would cause it to cock in the support plate or even pop out.
I assumed (bad on my part) that you figured this out, sorry.
You need to remove the outer support bracket to get the belt onto the rear
pulley.
Remove the rear wheel drive chain first to relieve any pressure off of the drive shaft. You don't want the inside bearing receiving a load that would cause it to cock in the support plate or even pop out.
Yeah, took the chain off first thing, knew that the outer support bracket (what I was calling the mounting bracket) needed to come off, didn't how to make that happen. That's what I was asking. I had the bolts that hold it on loose to the point that they were rattling around, but the problem is that there isn't enough clearance between the rear pulley and the bolt holes through the bracket to get the bolts out of there. While the bolts are still there you can't slide the bracket far enough along the shaft to get it off without the bolt heads stopping on the pulley. Eventually it came to me to loosen the pulley on the shaft and slide it and the bracket towards the end at the same time until the bracket came off. Thank god I didn't hit it with a hammer... After that it was over in about 10 minutes, didn't have to mess with the engine pulley at all and I'm just back from the test ride with everything working perfectly. In retrospect that whole thing seems pretty obvious, but I have limited mechanical experience and really hadn't ever messed with that system before. It came bolted on the motor.
Good job on your belt swap!
Mine came pre-assembled too. Other than lubricating the belt lightly with dielectric grease which was recommended to me by The Aleman, another EZM owner, I have never had a reason to mess with it.
FWIW, the dielectric grease makes a really good belt dressing. Thank you again, The Aleman!
Mine came pre-assembled too. Other than lubricating the belt lightly with dielectric grease which was recommended to me by The Aleman, another EZM owner, I have never had a reason to mess with it.
FWIW, the dielectric grease makes a really good belt dressing. Thank you again, The Aleman!
