Oil leaking from top of engine case

I've seen the stock china sparkplugs cause this...the crush washer is to blame.
It may also be caused by the acorn nuts on the head bottoming on the stud before they seal the head.

Not unless it gets worse...
Just keep an eye on it.

Clean it up and see if its leaking from s plug, head bolts or top gasket...... Acorn head nuts need to e replaced.... They may torque but are bottoming out on the crown......

I agree with 2door, clean it and look to see first place it comes out of - if it is coming out of the head gasket and you let it go, then the gasket will burn out.

I had this problem on my first build,,after I torqued the head bolts down the head of the acorn nuts all popped off,,then I gave the plug a good squash down,,no more leaks.The studs where not screwed all the way into the crankcase either,,make sure to always check that the studs are bottomed out as it will give you a little less stud to hit the acorn.I used an extra flat washer on them also.

Good times

Take all the good advice in this thread and get rid of those acorn nuts and use regular nuts instead (that wont bottom out on the studs), and make sure to tighten the studs down into the block properly. Be careful not to OVER tighten, as the threads in the aluminum block will strip out kinda easy and the studs themselves that come with the kits are not very solid. If you are leaking up there your head is either not torqued down properly or the head or cylinder (or gasket) has a flaw in the mating surface that prevents them from sealing together properly. Take a look at the surface where the head and cylinder meet (with the head removed) and you will probably be able to tell where its been leaking....

IMHO the BEST thing you can do is get a hardware upgrade kit and replace the studs and nuts with better quality hardware. I got mine from SickBikeParts.com and am very happy with it (rather than trying to source all the stuff myself). Another good thing to do is get yourself a SMALL torque wrench that reads in INCH Pounds and use that when torquing things down. I bought a 1/4" drive click style torque wrench that isn't much bigger than a regular 1/4" socket driver, I like the click style much better than the needle style because it simply clicks when the proper torque is reached so there is no pesky needle to read. You just dial the desired torque on the handle and the wrench will click over when that torque is reached, being much smaller than a needle style torque wrench enables you to use it in small spaces after the motor is mounted. Here is an example of the type of wrench I am referring to....

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2432-4...50564&sr=8-1&keywords=1/4+click+torque+wrench

Not only will using this type of wrench make sure things are tightened down enough, it will make sure you don't OVER tighten things, which is just as likely since the aluminum threads aren't able to hold much past the rated torque...

I got the new style(deeper) acorn nuts on my last motor and they are working pretty good Tom,,I torqued them down once at 11 foot lbs. and went on a 10 mile test ride today(@23 mph avg.),,they are still perfect and did not pop off,,better than the old nuts but not as good as the shoulder nuts you are talking about.

Nightcruiser,,
Thanks for the amazon link on the inch pound wrench I really do need one,,love the click style also

Good times!

Tommy

577-Jersey said:

Nightcruiser,,
Thanks for the amazon link on the inch pound wrench I really do need one,,love the click style also

Good times!

Tommy

Click to expand...

Shop around Amazon or local tool stores, that wrench looks pretty much like the one I got (and am very happy with) but I'm not sure if that's the best deal going or not. I just grabbed that link as an example of the type of wrench I am using...