10 HP Briggs & Stratton Blown In Seven Seconds -- Opinions Please

You could always buy a rod and put it in. I don't think you toasted it by snapping a rod.

If all else fails, buy a harbor freight or a used engine and replace it.

Is anything else in there damaged besides the rod? If not, I would try replacing it. If it damaged the cam or crankcase, It may also have twisted or damaged the trueness of the crankshaft, and then yes, it would only be good for parts or scrap.

The crank is replaceable, not sure of the cost though.

i think a harbor freight engine is your best option

time to shop online for a "shortblock" .
there are lots of online briggs dealers,with your model type and code you could look up your own parts.
i did see once where the con rod bolts loosened and fell out,then broke the rod.
replaced it and still runs.
the shortblock is the cylinder,crankcase,crankshaft,camshaft,con rod and piston.\
unless its an overhead valve,then no cam,or cyl head.

regardless,they must be quoting you for a complete engine.

a piston and connecting rod,with a full gasket set cant cost that much.
i blew a con rod on a tecumseh,punctured the crankcase.
siliconed the hole,stuck in a connecting rod and it ran til i sold it.

my old 14.5 hp mtd has been running with a cracked crankcase since '97.epoxy putty can be your friend.

i just saw a honda knock-off 13 horsepower for 499.electric start.i'd use it.

Even I have heard of farmers fixing holes in their tractor blocks by gluing the piece back in with JB Weld. (Depends where the hole is, mind you.)
With a broken connecting rod: I've saved a lot of money by just going to the library (this was before the internet) and educating myself through the manuals. You can fix/replace a connecting rod yourself. All you need is the right knowledge, the right tools, and the right part. It's easier than you think. But take your time, and double check your work.
I've gained a great many skills just from being poor for most of my years. (I now have four kids so, technically, I'm still poor.)

the school of hard knocks,thats where i learned to fix stuff too.
i learned very early that buying the tools to fix something is cheaper than paying someone else to do it for me.

drywall/sheetrock is a perfect example.my basement job more than paid for the tools to do the whole thing.

On basic utility engines the con rod doesn't have a steel automotive style bearing insert on the big end. It's just aluminum riding on the cast iron crank. It's bound to wear out and snap sooner or later.

Catfisher said:

Thanks for the input and ideas.

The mechanic at the lawnmower shop I trust said the main problem when the rod breaks is extra aluminum is somehow deposited onto the crankshaft. He said often the new rod won't fit around the crankshaft unless the crank is re-machined. Way out of my league if that has happened.


Thanks guys!

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I have run into many times over the years and unless the crank is scored or severely out of round it does not need re-machined because of the aluminum deposits. Of course the overall condition of the engine is important also. Inspect everything inside the engine for damage. Be sure to inspect anything that was contacted by the rod or is in the path of the rod. This is especially important with camshafts and governors. You may find that the cost of parts is going to exceed reasonable costs over a replacement. If there is a chunk missing from the bottom of the cylinder wall It often will be fine once you de-burr the edges. As a general rule, if the area missing is below the ring travel area, still has the area to support the piston at the sides of the skirt thrust area and no cracks are radiating up into the ring working area you'll be fine. If it looks good thus far, here is how you do it......

First off before condemning the crank make sure it is a viable candidate. is the overall condition ok? (seal surfaces decent, shaft not bent or torn up?) if those areas are OK, now you remove the aluminum. First off, using care, try to flake off as much as possible. I use a piece of hard aluminum plate as a scraper. Then you need to dissolve the remaining aluminum. If your lucky and have nearby a shop that uses caustic solution hot tanking (many have gone away from this style) you can ask them to toss the crank in overnight and let is soak. (the solution you want is the type that says "Do not immerse aluminum in solution") this will dissolve the soft metal and once rinsed off you can wipe the remaining metal off the journal with a rag. Then you can toss it in again for another soak to ensure the pores of the journal are cleaned if you want. If you cannot find such a place you can make your own solution using Lye "WARNING, LYE is extremely hazardous and harmful. Use extreme care and safety equipment to protect your self!! see the wiki article.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lye ) Now I will tell you it is not going to erupt or explode when you put the crank in but you definitely want to have water to rinse off and flush handy in case you spill any and you want to be sure you do this in a place that is safe and has good ventilation. I use LYE I purchase locally from a supplier, that I mix in a heavy duty tub. Remember, add LYE to water, never water to LYE! (splashing hazard is why) I have saved many cranks this way. Once the metal is wiped off the crank, you can lightly polish it and clean with brake clean then break out the micrometer.

BTW, there is no need to polish the crank into visual perfection, some discoloration is going to be normal considering what happened, just as long as the surface is not able to grab a fingernail and has no visible high spots or broad nicks. Tiny nicks I have had no problems from over the years as long as they are small, not raised and are out of the main thrust surface of the journal. If you find you crank is 1-2 thousandths undersize/out of round that is not necessarily a bad thing. On our racing engines (Briggs, Tecumseh, Kohler) we ran the rod journal clearances loose and heavy oil (SAE 50) to prevent scoring and overheating the rod journal. Especially on our Briggs 130232 engines which we supercharged (that's another story from many years ago)

Oh, and if by chance a hole gets popped in the side of the block those are easy to deal with most of the time, but that also is another story

Are these cranks one piece items, or built up like some motorcycle engines? A built up crank that's been twisted can be straightened again by a workshop with experience in these things.