Eton 41.5cc - anyone tried one of these?

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dawa31

New Member
Sep 25, 2011
26
0
0
Wiliamsport, PA
I have not tried this yet. But did order 1, and just picked up the cruiser bike last night for this. I also got a Dax friction drive kit on the way. Heading over to the bike shop now to make the rear tier a free wheel and pick up a breaking system now. I'll keep you posted on the build.
 

thatsdax

Member
Feb 22, 2008
868
4
16
www.thatsdax.com
I also bought one to test. I have had it for some time. I have not had the time to install it yet. Pipe is pointed the wrong way for me.. But I must say, the quality looks great and is made in ROC. At the current rate, I may never get to try it as I have no time for myself.
:(
 

dawa31

New Member
Sep 25, 2011
26
0
0
Wiliamsport, PA
I was looking this over, and yes I'll have to modify the exhaust. I recall seeing somewhere a pipe that did a pig tail curl sorta thing, can't recall where tho??? Another thing I was looking at on this is what I'm guessing is the Coil... looks a little funny, Might have to replace it with a normal china girl coil??? That might help me figure out the kill switch hook up too. But for now that will all have to wait till the rear rim get's back from the bike shop and the friction drive get's here from Dax.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
not sure how much i dig the look of that engine, but performance beats looks every time in my book. lmk how this thing runs when you get it done.
 

dawa31

New Member
Sep 25, 2011
26
0
0
Wiliamsport, PA
Ok here's where I'm at on this build. I got the rear rim back from the bike shop. It is now totally freewheel-in, just like a 10 speed. :) Picked up a rear bake system for the stopping of this cruiser bike, however.... the brake arms are not long enough to make contact with the rim. :-( I'm thinking of ways to modify the arms so they will work. I'm just not to sure if that's the best way to go. Does anyone know where I could find longer brakes? I'm hoping the pic post's just fine.
 

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Dave31

Active Member
Mar 1, 2008
11,199
47
38
Aztlán, Arizona
Ok here's where I'm at on this build. I got the rear rim back from the bike shop. It is now totally freewheel-in, just like a 10 speed. :) Picked up a rear bake system for the stopping of this cruiser bike, however.... the brake arms are not long enough to make contact with the rim. :-( I'm thinking of ways to modify the arms so they will work. I'm just not to sure if that's the best way to go. Does anyone know where I could find longer brakes? I'm hoping the pic post's just fine.
A few years back I had to make mine fit, worked great.

http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=54746&postcount=45
 

dawa31

New Member
Sep 25, 2011
26
0
0
Wiliamsport, PA
To keep you all up to date on this build. I fixed the issue with the brakes. I had a friend make some bolt on extenders for them. The calipers are made of Aluminum so spot welding is out. Thanks Dave31 for the idea tho. Also today the Fiction drive mounting bracket from ThatsDax showed up in the mail. I un-boxed it and just held it up to the motor to see how the clutch would fit, and found they don't fit to well. I'll have to make a spacer about an inch or 2 thick. The clutch drum it's self fits fine. I'm low on time at the moment, so pic's and more accurate measurements will have to wait till later.
 

dawa31

New Member
Sep 25, 2011
26
0
0
Wiliamsport, PA
I decided to hold off on making the spacer right now. I used the barrel spacers that came with the friction drive kit. Was in the proses of hooking up the throttle cable and found the barrel end on the cable I have is to big. In the Digital Caliper's I have shows the barrel to be 4.10MM round and the hole in the throttle is 3.20MM. I have a chunk of Aluminum I was planning on making a mold for re doing the ends of these cables. How ever I heard that regular solder doesn't work that great. Does anyone have any other thought's? I also have the concern of what to use so the solder or what ever I use doesn't stay stuck to the Aluminum mold.
 
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