bike ran well, then slow spped+clutch=dead. still in breakin period

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sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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Hello all, I have searched high and low for this weird issue.

Right before this death happened I added more gas from the same gas can, which is 15/16:1 ...

I had installed a pull start as well, and since it was late, I made the good choice of using a ratcheting wrench instead of a ratchet and socket. This then scratched the side of the magneto holder and scraped small shavings off it.

I pulled the start and it kicked on right away, like a half pull and she was kicking!!!!!!

Killed her after maybe 7 seconds, and did it again, then turned her on for the ride, I was using just the engine to move me no peddling, maybe that wasn't the best choice. But I wanted the pull start more then peddling for now atleast lol.

When I got to a stop sign I popped the clutch, and hit the brakes... released the clutch to go, and she stalled out on me. She was kicking a little uneven I felt. That is why I replaced the spark plug and wire.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!!:-||
 
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bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
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Central Illinois
I'm not sure I really understand the trouble. Your headline seems to say that perhaps your engine ran well for a bit then maybe lost power. And the headline also seems to say that your clutch isn't working?

How about coming back and giving us just as much info as you can? If that engine will actually start and run, for instance. And is the clutch working?

It won't hurt to tell us just what type of engine/drive train you have as well.

The more accurate your description, the quicker it'll be before someone comes along with the answer you need.

I'll go back and read your post in the meantime and see if I can get any ideas.
 

sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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I gotta change the title, and I did leave out keystones.

Its a basic 2 stroke engine, and it was running before I installed the pull start just fine.
After pulling the pull start, and riding away, I slowed down to maybe 3 mph on the bike and tried popping the clutch (which is perfect unfortunately, it was my first suspect), but she siezed on me.

I checked the wiring was connected, and reversed the wiring and tried that.

The engine still turned over, but didnt start like there wasnt a spark.
I got a meter to check if its good, and the meter says the magneto and cdi are good.
all the way over wants they touch, its not the digital one.

I replaced the spark plug, and the wire because the engine wasn't running as smooth as my old bike did when I upgraded the wire and plug. That still didnt help me.

I checked the filter in the fuel line it was facing the wrong way, so I corrected it, and tickled the carb. Still no go.

The fuel block switch is on correctly, and flowing to the carb.

I took off the spark plug and pulled the pull start to blow out any gas, that flooded from trying to start so many times. However there was no gas or anything that came out... maybe thats good?? idk

Ill have a new magneto by thursday, if that is the issue. The plastic ovals that are on top and bottom the magneto coil, is what I damaged slightly. The coil itself was not damaged. Ill post a picture in an hour when I can
 
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sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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It was out of nowhere, just stopped running and she wont turn back on. Drives me nuts, not being able to figure this out. I have been hacking at ideas for 4 days now.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
When you flipped the fuel filter to flow correctly did you flush it out or did all junk it previously collect get washed into the carburetor?

Have you checked the mag rotor to see if it has slipped on the shaft? Perhaps the woodruff key was damaged somehow?

A new spark plug does not always equal a good spark plug. They can be a dud right out of the box.

Have you tried snipping 1/2 inch off the end of the new spark plug wire and reseating it in the CDI? Every once in a while you find that the screw in the CDI did not mate correctly with the wire core.

When blowing out the cylinder of excessive fuel buildup you will rarely actually see raw liquid coming out. it is more of a matter of getting fresh air to flow through the engine and evaporating the fuel. This is where an air compressor comes in handy.
 
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sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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the fuel filter is practically new only riden a few miles total, not much gunk yet. And now the arrow is pointing towards the carb, instead of the fuel tank.

The mag rotor is secure, not much room left after the pull rope was installed.

I eyed up the cord, but I will try the half inch thing again.

What about starter fluid, could that help? I have the basic carb for now.
 

sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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ok so my magneto is fine, it is 310-316 with the multimeter set at 2000 ohms or however its spelled.

I checked the CDI and with the multimeter at 2k it didnt register, so I did it with the cheapo multimeter I have, and it picked up some current at 1k it showed I think 2-3 ohms but im not sure how to read it, and I dont have a new one to compare.

I am leaning to maybe it is the CDI, since the magneto blue and black share 300+.

What I just did was I hooked up a 14mm socket to my cord drill, and ran it in place of the pull start rope with the cover off and I even did this without the clutch pulled. No spark.

maybe the fuel I am using is to rich and needs more gas?
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
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Central Illinois
Try turning over that engine with your socket and drill again. This time have the spark plug out of the head. Attach the spark plug to the spark plug wire and lay the threads, or the 'wrench head' against the engine.

When you turn over the engine, do you see spark at the tip of the plug?

I'm kinda suspecting a fuel delivery issue. This experiment will tell you whether or not to turn to that.
 

sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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yes to spark....If it is a fuel delivery issue, what could be effecting it?

I was wondering why my exhaust wasnt dripping gas.
 
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sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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As another thing to note, my gas tank is always hissing out pressure like a small creaky sound. of course at times it stops, but it goes for awhile when it starts the creaking.

In case that bit of info may help
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
If some junk was in the fuel filter, even the teeniest bit, and it was flushed into the carburetor when you turned the filter around the junk can easily plug up the fuel jet inside the carburetor.
Plugged jet = no fuel to the engine.

So long as the pressure plate is covering all of the friction pads it is good to go.
If it is off center it will not look visually appealing but also will not affect function. It will have an effect on vibration though.
These cheap engines come with cheap quality control and not all pressure plates are created equal.

The fuel cap may not be venting like it should and causing the hissing sound.
Some folks drill a teeny tiny hole ( 1/16" or smaller) in the top of the cap, other folks get a new cap. Be very careful if you go the drill a hole method. Drill it while removed from the tank and be aware that when the tank is very full it may spit fuel out of the new hole.
 
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skitchfish

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Oct 27, 2010
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You quoted 15 or 16 to 1? You might consider thinning out your mix a touch even for break in, clean out all the residue under your clutch cover and make sure your clutch pads are floating and that it's not a huge mess. You really should pedal your bike a little when taking off, especially during break in.
 

sergman89

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Jul 7, 2012
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If some junk was in the fuel filter, even the teeniest bit, and it was flushed into the carburetor when you turned the filter around the junk can easily plug up the fuel jet inside the carburetor.
Plugged jet = no fuel to the engine.
It may be in that ballpark, I got her kicking again!!!
I sprayed cheap (compared to the 3.79 valvoline) 2.99 starterfluid, into the carb under the airfilter for a total of 3 seconds. Then tried to start the engine with the pull start and she began to putter so I gave her gas WHILE CLUTCHED and she didnt die, but was SUPER rough at first.

Once she rode about .2 miles she started riding better then last time.

So far my lesson learned is to buy the upgraded versions of everything lol.
The first thing I changed was my Chain tensioner to the engine mounted chain tensioner, and now I need the advanced carb.

This basic carb is a pain, the adjuster screw doesnt really react at all.

THANK YOU BlueGoatWoods, GearNut, AND SkitchFish for your help with this.
usflg
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
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38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Judging by your description the engine was flooded. It had an excessive amount of fuel in the bottom end.

Your tensioner choice is a good one.
If you have the basic NT carburetor you really have the most preferred one out there.
They are the easiest to work on, perform really well and put up with the most abuse.
If by adjuster screw you mean the idle speed screw, and it does not react much, that sounds like you have an air leak. Have a fire extinguisher near by. While the engine is at idle, spray a little carburetor cleaner or starter fluid where the carburetor attaches to the manifold and where the manifold attaches to the cylinder. Do not get any near the air cleaner to avoid a false reading. If the engine speed changes then you have a leak.
Seal the leak with Hylomar or SealAll.
If you want to get another carburetor, wait until after the break in has been done.
The engine will wake up and perform better as it breaks in and you may find that you don't really need another carburetor.