ASAP Please Help..... Alot

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O

omar

New Member
Jun 29, 2013
26
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0
United States
I just got my bike, and started to put my Skyhawk gt5 on it. First thing is that only one side of the engine mounts, but it holds up really tight, so its not really a problem. Second is that, when i mounted the exhaust, the pedals scrape. Third thing is that after installing my sprocket, the wheel is very wobbly. If you have any advise please, please tell me. Im using the manual fromhttp://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/STARFIRE%20%20SKYHAWK%20WEB%20INSTRUCTIONS.htm Here are some pictures if needed



http://www.flickr.com/photos/97219318@N07/
 
E.O. Alouicious

E.O. Alouicious

New Member
Jun 8, 2013
14
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Portland OR
I had the same problem with my exhaust. Do you have a little propane torch? Bolt it down with a vice grip or use wood screws to strap it down to a large piece of wood for leverage. Heat up the part that needs to bend in order for it to fit until it turns red. At that point you should be able to get it to bend with a little force.
 
JustAnotherBozoOnABike

JustAnotherBozoOnABike

New Member
Mar 31, 2013
295
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0
RI
omar said:
First thing is that only one side of the engine mounts, but it holds up really tight, so its not really a problem.
Click to expand...
...you will definitely not be able to get away with just one motor mount, it may seem like it's holding up really tight but if you run it like that the vibration will quickly get you into trouble.

sprocket alignment is critical so you'll need to fix your wheel problem and you'll need to either figure out how to mount the motor with both mounts attached to the bike frame or you're gonna need to fabricate some kind of mount.

...btw, some pictures of the bike as it sits NOW would make it much easier for folks to offer advise, ...take some close-ups of the wheel your having trouble with and some of the motor and how you have it mounted.

peace, bozo
 
J

Jeckler

New Member
Jun 4, 2013
101
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0
Mesa, AZ
omar said:
when i mounted the exhaust, the pedals scrape. Third thing is that after installing my sprocket, the wheel is very wobbly.
Click to expand...
Remove the heat shield from the muffler. That might give you enough room. Or heat it as suggested.
When you removed the coaster brake arm to install the sprocket, you didn't get the left side cone adjusted properly upon reassembly. It needs to be tighter. The wheel still needs to spin free through, so it can be a fine line.
 
mdschurtz

mdschurtz

New Member
Jun 16, 2013
29
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0
Greenville, NC
simple question about the rear wheel:
Are the nuts holding it in place tight enough? i Know that one of mine backed off a little due to vibrations and wound up causing the wheel to wobble bad. so simple that sometimes we look over it
 
fatdaddy

fatdaddy

New Member
May 4, 2011
1,516
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San Jose, Ca.
omar said:
I just got my bike, and started to put my Skyhawk gt5 on it. First thing is that only one side of the engine mounts, but it holds up really tight, so its not really a problem. Second is that, when i mounted the exhaust, the pedals scrape. Third thing is that after installing my sprocket, the wheel is very wobbly. If you have any advise please, please tell me. Im using the manual fromhttp://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/STARFIRE%20%20SKYHAWK%20WEB%20INSTRUCTIONS.htm Here are some pictures if needed



http://www.flickr.com/photos/97219318@N07/
Click to expand...
First, Not having both mounts tight and secure IS a problem. You didn't say if it was the front or back mount though. I'm assuming it's the front. If the front of the motor wont fit over the downtube because the tube is too big then you're going to need an aftermarket mount. There are many to choose from, I used this one on my bike. Just buy better nuts for it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-gas-bi...Accessories&hash=item257eb894ce#ht_3107wt_930

The exhaust sometimes has a little "wiggle room" when you install it. Try holding it over as you tighten it. Sometimes all ya need is a little.
Installing a rag joint can be a PITA. I use a truing station to get them straight. You can make one out of an old style front fork. A cheap thin one is best so you can make it fit a rear wheel. The first rag joint I did took me most of the day to get it right. Getting the engine/sprocket alignment right is a critical part of any build. SO, your engine is LOOSE, (or will be,) your sprocket is not aligned properly, and that means your tensioner is also not in alignment with anything. If you don't solve these problems your chain is gonna fall off the first time you try to ride it.
I'm not gonna go through how to install a rag joint here, There are LOTS of posts on the subject already. Do a search and learn the proper way to install it. I think once you get the engine tight and the sprocket right your problems will disapear. AND, Throw away the manual,It's useless. Everything you need to get it up and running you will find here.
fatdaddy.
 
bluegoatwoods

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
I've had success with a simpler exhaust clearance fix.

Drill one of the muffler/pipe mount holes a bit bigger. I've found that I can go up 1/4 inch without worrying too much. This gives you more wiggle room when tightening the exhaust to the engine. You can simply swing it over more toward the driver's right side until the left pedal clears.
 
O

omar

New Member
Jun 29, 2013
26
0
0
United States
Ok guys, I fixed the wobble on the tire, and also bought the engine mount. So now I just need help with the exhaust, and with the kill switch. How do I connect the wires. Sorry about no pictures, but I'm on my phone and it doesn't allow me to post pictures, so I will try to take some and connect it to my computer then post them. Thanks for the help guys
 
kevyleven007

kevyleven007

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
1,217
8
38
texas
put a piece of metal or pipe between the exhaust and frame and then knock the crap out of the exhaust with something big and heavy( Like bolt cutters)! Your gonna have to put an extender like the back mount has on the front. Your gonna need longer studs and you might have to use a large frame adapter as well. Go ahead a drill through the frame its ok! when you stick a bolt through there it actually makes the frame stronger its only empty holes that weaken the frame. Now, get some cone wrenches and tighten that wheel up a little but not TOO much. Got it?
 
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2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Do not try to bend the pipe with it attached to the engine. That's a bad idea and can result in a damaged cylinder, or worse.

Remove the pipe from the bike and clamp it in a vice or bolt it to an immovable object. Heat isn't necessary. You can cold bend the pipe. You might also try enlarging the holes in the flange. It doesn't take much to allow the flange to swivel on the cylinder enough to possible clear your crank/pedal.

Tom
 
maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Drilling holes in the frame is a bad idea. Get the engine mounted correctly with a large tube mount rather than compromising the frame strength.
Also, drilling the exhaust mounting holes will allow you to turn the pipe enough to clear the pedals. Bending it is almost never needed if you open the holes up a bit.
 
CTripps

CTripps

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
1,310
1
38
Vancouver, B.C.
If the length of the front mount studs is the only problem (if the front mount would otherwise fit the front tube) then check out how I got around it for my cruiser.

I cut extra long studs to replace the stock ones, then cut a mounting block to fit the gap. I smoothed the edge of the cut block and JB welded the two spacers together for a slightly cleaner end look. Once installed I cut a little extra off the ends of the mounting studs, as they turned out to be almost an inch longer than I needed.









Using that trick, I could have moved the engine forward and put the extended mount against the seat tube (and may do so down the road if I need to; it is pretty tight where the carb sits, I have to take the air filter off first to have clearance to pull the carb). Do not try to run the engine with only one set of mounts, it's likely to shift to one side and that can get ugly.

For the exhaust pipe, widening the mounting holes can give you the few degrees of rotation that you might need to clear the pedals, without having to bend a pipe. File or otherwise widen the top of the hole on one side, and the bottom of it on the other. If you mount the engine forward with spacers against the seat tube, it might also solve your pipe problem just by changing the engine position that inch or two.
 
fatdaddy

fatdaddy

New Member
May 4, 2011
1,516
4
0
San Jose, Ca.
kevyleven007 said:
put a piece of metal or pipe between the exhaust and frame and then knock the crap out of the exhaust with something big and heavy( Like bolt cutters)! Your gonna have to put an extender like the back mount has on the front. Your gonna need longer studs and you might have to use a large frame adapter as well. Go ahead a drill through the frame its ok! when you stick a bolt through there it actually makes the frame stronger its only empty holes that weaken the frame. Now, get some cone wrenches and tighten that wheel up a little but not TOO much. Got it?
Click to expand...
NOOOOOO, To almost everything you said. Sorry bro, But drilling a frame is NEVER a good idea. Just because your chinese manual says it's Ok does not make it OK. It will leave it weaker. This is especially true for aluminum frames.
And never try to hit, knock, bend, pry the exhaust while it is attached to the motor. Well, unless you LIKE fixing broken exhaust studs.
Sorry bro, But your only GOOD advice was to tighten up the wheel some.
I'm actually suprised at your advise, being that you're a long time member.
I say this almost every time I'm on this site, LISTEN TO 2door.
fatdaddy.
 
Groove

Groove

New Member
Nov 2, 2012
245
2
0
Lexington, KY
@Omar - looking at the fourth picture in post #10 .. where did you get that rear mount bracket? Is that stock? It looks like a better design than what I've got.
 
fatdaddy

fatdaddy

New Member
May 4, 2011
1,516
4
0
San Jose, Ca.
omar said:
It came with the kit
Click to expand...
Get RID OF THAT REAR MOUNT. I JUST tried to put one on my bike. They are made of that cheap alloy crap and WILL BREAK. I didn't even notice untill omar pointed it out that you had one on your bike. I thought it looked better and made for it a more FINISHED look. Turns out when I torqued it down it broke off on one side. The other stock steel mount is a LOT better. Trust me on this. I've mounter over 100 engines and NEVER ran into a cheaper, weaker mount than this one.
fatdaddy.
Use this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-motori...336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c60939f50
 
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