1950's Vintage Briggs Motorbike Build.

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Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

New Member
Nov 16, 2011
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Western N.C.
Just starting this build, 1950's Western Flyer bicycle, 1949 Briggs and Stratton 5s engine, Whizzer manual clutch, And Whizzer rear pulley sheave.

1950's Western Flyer bought off E-Bay for $500 (May be a little high but it had the patina I wanted)


1949 Briggs and Stratton 5s engine E-Bay purchase $85 w/shipping


Mock up With Saddlebags, Had to change out the large original skiptooth chainring with smaller chainring to lower chain guard to make clearance for engine.


Mock up with Whizzer manual clutch.


Two of a kind, The mock up of the current build and my 1949 Western Flyer with China Girl kit.
 
Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

New Member
Nov 16, 2011
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Western N.C.
Charlie, I have considered turning the tank into a functional tank, But my goal for this build is to build a authentic 1950's home built motorbike. My inspiration is if " Farmer Joe " was to build a motorbike in the 1950's how would he do it? Chances are he wouldn't have a welder at his disposal and would not go through the trouble of building a filler peice for the two halves of the tank, then cold braze it together, then seal it. He would more than likely just use the tank off an old tiller he had lying around and mount it on the rack, once I distress the tank I am hoping it will fit the bill. Thanx for the encouragement and input guys!
 
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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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minesota
Have you seen this old build from Popular Machanics http://www.vintageprojects.com/mini-bike/Power-Bike-plans.pdf
The other thing that was done in the 50's was cut the bottom half out of a old generator and friction drive the rear wheel. From a washing machine motor mounted up front. They used the generator mount behind the seat for a pivet.
I don't think it was farmers that built bikes back then. To bussy plowing fields with putput tractors...............Curt
 
Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

New Member
Nov 16, 2011
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Western N.C.
Still really in mock up and fabrication stage. In N.C. motorized bicycles fall under the moped/scooter laws and as such are not required to have pedals. The brake and drive engagement are adapted from Earl Seidlingers "Power Bike" plans In some discussion with those who have far more experience than myself regarding belt drives its become evident that I will need a 11:1 or 12:1 drive ratio. with the Whizzer rear sheave being 15.5" my drive pulley is going to have to be smaller than 1.5" with a 1/2" belt, I'm going to have to do some checking to see if its possible or not. If not I will have to use the Whizzer manual clutch (I had decided not to use because it pushed the original motivation of building a bike as an original "homebuilt using what would be available laying around a house/barn/garage.) and before anyone tells me an inner tube will not work as a belt.....I know I'm just using it for mock up.



 
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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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I think you could put a jack shaf in there next to the seat post and still use your tightner,that way you can change pully to chang ratio.

Love your bike sort of like the one i built 50 years ago.............Curt
 
Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

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Nov 16, 2011
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Western N.C.
Thanks Curt, May go with the jackshaft Right now I'm just making it up as I go along. The fact that you said it reminded you of the one you built 50 years ago is the best compliment you could give. Thats the goal 1950's homebuilt.
 
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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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I don't remember what i used for a shaft but i used a piece of pipe the the crank set of bearings and cups fit in.
It wouldn't be hard to extend the crank shaft with something and then true it up as long as you use the ajusting nut on the other end.............Curt
 
Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

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Nov 16, 2011
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Western N.C.
Heres the latest on the 1951-53 Western Flyer build, I've done the final install on the motor and the drive pulleys. Still working on the gearin, right now it will launch from a rolling start but my ulimate goal is to launch from a stop and to eliminate the need for pedaling so that I can maintain the drive system I designed. Going to install a jackshaft and that should work

Click on image for video
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Gbrebes

Gbrebes

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Jul 16, 2010
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Los angeles
I really like your bike, it makes me smile. I like the concept of the "farmer John" build, and your execution is perfection. Have you ridden it much yet? I wondered if that muffler might cook your left thigh.

I think the jack shaft will definitely allow you to achieve the 12:1 ratio you're looking for.

Great work,

Gilbert
 
Motorbikermark

Motorbikermark

New Member
Nov 16, 2011
100
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Western N.C.
Haven't ridden it much, I live in the mountains of N.C. so not being able to launch from a stop without pedals is really a deal breaker (too many hills to push off from) if all else fails may have to add pedals or move to flat land. Entered it in a large local car show and got a top 20 out of 150+ cars.
[IMG
With out the need to pedal my leg is well in front of the muffler and well behind the pull start pulley on the other side. If I find I have to add pedals than I may have to extend the exhaust and build a guard for the pulley. I'll keep my progress posted, Thanks for the encouragement.
 
Harold_B

Harold_B

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May 23, 2012
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Grand Rapids, MI
What a riot! I love this bike. I posted a picture of it in my (re) build thread a couple days ago. It had come through on my Facebook news feed from R & S Vintage Bicycles and I snagged the photo and reposted as inspiration. I'll add a link to this thread.

My engine is a 98cc Doodlebug but I've replaced the recoil starter with a vintage Briggs cup. The cranks are splayed way out but I'm still a little leery of that spinning pulley. I'll be interested to see how you address that on your Briggs.
 
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