Interesting Locktite information.

I don't know if the number remains the same, but Loctite had a post assembly threadlocker, 290. This is handy for when you have one of those jobs that is a pig to set up, and would like to leave it all in place once you've hit the sweet spot.

2door said:

Here is a little more info taken from a Loctite information card.

Tom

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Wait a minute, I thought you frowned on using loctite and were a disbeliever of it's benefits???

I think you're talking about the idea of someone using jb weld inside of their engine, I like tom think that is a bad idea. I have read where Tom has recommended loctite on certain nuts and bolts before, stuff will fall off if you don't use it, at least it does on my bikes!

One place I recommend using loctite is on chain tensioner mounting bolts, you don't want those getting loose!

2door said:

Read again. What I've said in the pass is to NOT USE RED LOCTITE. There is no place on a motorized bicycle that would require the red, #262, Permanent thread locker. Places like fender fasteners, chain guards, etc. can benefit from a thread locking compound but one that can be removed without the application of excesive heat.

What I have a problem with is people advocating use of the red Loctite on any fastener, be it accessories or anywhere on the engine.

Properly torqued and correctly matched, there is no need for thread locking compounds on fasteners like intake/exhaust manifolds, cylinder head nuts, case screws or anywhere else on an engine. I have several thousand miles on Chinese 2 stroke engines and fastener loosening has never been a problem for me.
Tom

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Got a nice little Italian engine here. If the clutch is not RED LOCTITE on that fastener it will cost me a motor. Funny thing tho I service that clutch when ever I want and put it back the same way every time.

Easy 20tho miles on this'un by now ''engine''. Blue loctite nearly lost me all the threads on the crank. You see a free wheel spin down from red line let the clutch come loose. Further reading on the dirt bike forums taught me red went on that clutch.

The trick when the engine is still heat soaked it is no problem to work with.

Lets think about this for a moment... What else on a engine gets heat soaked? LoL

With that said I still have to give way to you on this one Tom and do agree to a point. There are many folks that don't know how to use the stuff.

There is a nifty anaerobic red form of stuff thick as heck. Used to seal oil pumps to engine blocks. Pretty dang rare I have cheated with it twice over the last 8 years or so , on non other than helping seal the half pieces together on a black or grey tank valve on a RV. All PVC plastic parts in that area.

With engines in the Automotive making up wards of 500,000 or more miles and the oil pumps work good. It's working there. What about the rest of the motor on a car?

Lets see connecting rod bolts. Clutch plates, the two magic bolts that hold a pumpkin in a rear axle. There is more brake calliper bolts, the intake plenum, those bolts that hold the subframe and it's cargo to the front end of a front wheel drive car..

There is no end to it. That was when I worked in Auto Mechanics. The little small engine shop I worked in boss man insisted on red loc for connecting rods in utility engines.

I my self often use blue loc. It is serviceable with out needing too much fuss. The stronger the Loc compound I finesse with heat. Usually just wave a propane torch over it.

Imagine someone’s paint job lol.